05-25-2020, 10:38 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS VR 1LE Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Prince George, B.C.
Posts: 486
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Can You answer this? SOLVED
2013 2SS/RR 1LE, heavily modified.
The car has been on Pedders lowering coils for about 7 years. Just changed to BC Racing coil-overs in an effort to fix a steering issue. Running 880 rwhp and on a hard launch, the car does not go straight. It doesn't matter if traction control is on or off. It will start to go left, then right as I correct and it truly feels like the rear wheels are doing the steering. I have replaced the rear upper control arms, end links, and toe rods to BMR (this was done before Coilovers to try and correct the issue). Four wheel alignment is bang on. I've had 2 diff shops try to find the issue, whatever it is, to no avail. I'm open to suggestions. Ask me questions and Ill supply the answers in an effort see if any of you folk might have a suggestion or maybe have experienced this yourselves and what did you find. Thank in advance.
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BC Racing coil-overs, 32ml rear sway bar, Solid cradle bushing kit, Steel jacket radius rod bushes, JPSS caster bolt, Bo White TB, Granitelli HP coils, Apex Catchcan, Vortech V7 Ysi Supercharger, LSX B-15 engine, custom spec cam, and other stuff.
Last edited by 1LeSS; 05-29-2020 at 07:47 PM. |
05-25-2020, 11:03 AM | #2 |
Drives: Black '13 2SS/RS/1LE w/NPP/NAV Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa by way of Miami...
Posts: 4,934
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Have you looked at the cradle bushings and differential bushings to a lesser degree? Also did it do this with lesser power? It might just be a situation of the car is screaming oh shit with that much power... lol
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05-25-2020, 11:04 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro 2SS RS 1LE AGM Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Galion, Oh
Posts: 531
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Same here and Im still on factory springs and shocks. I have upgraded toe rods, trailing arms and lower control arm bushings also. Hard launch she pulls mostly to the right and sometimes to the left..
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2015 2SS RS 1LE NPP/w Kooks headers, Procharged, ID1050X injectors, Katech belt tensioner, Mighty Mouse Catch Can, BMR subframe connectors, Matco driveshaft loop, AEM Wideband/Boost/Fuel gauges , Z/28 Splitter and Spoiler/w Wicker bill, Power Stop rotors and brake pads, MRR Z/28 Rep Wheels 20" w/p zeros 285 fronts and 305 rears, ZL1 addons Rock guards and Tow hook, Rear window louvers, Flags on the quarter windows and the moonroof, Billet aluminum door handles.
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05-25-2020, 11:27 AM | #4 |
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Factory cradle bushings will not stand up to 800+ HP. They're bad enough under
factory load. Your cradle is shifting under that torque. That is called torque-steer, and can happen for a number of reasons. Suspension shifting; bad or flexing bushings, loose parts. Unbalanced power; one wheel puts down more torque than the other. The first, and the most common type produces a noticeable pull to one side on initial acceleration. This is when the steering wheel turns to one side, when taking off. Releasing the throttle makes the problem far less noticeable. The vehicle may also drive straight once speed is obtained; Causes: Tie rod end with too much slack. Excess ball joint movement. Deteriorated LCA bushings(s). Rear-wheel drive vehicles may exhibit torque steer when the rear suspension shifts, due to worn components. Control-arm bushings and tie rods may allow the drive- wheels to shift under acceleration. Movement changes the thrust angle and can cause the vehicle to pull. A close examination of components in the rear should reveal slack. Other common causes include a tire low on air pressure or a tire with conicity. To test for tire conicity, the tires can be temporarily moved from side to side. If the vehicle now pulls in the other direction, a tire issue is likely. In your case, putting down 800+HP at the wear wheels, the cradle bushings are the cause. |
05-25-2020, 12:05 PM | #5 | |
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS VR 1LE Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Prince George, B.C.
Posts: 486
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Thanks for the tips so far. I did upgrade the cradle bushings. It was the first change to the rear end but it has also been4-5 years plus lots more added hp. I have this idea in my head to get a shop to tear my rear suspension out and slowly reinstall it looking for a worn out culprit.
Great info Camarodude!! Quote:
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BC Racing coil-overs, 32ml rear sway bar, Solid cradle bushing kit, Steel jacket radius rod bushes, JPSS caster bolt, Bo White TB, Granitelli HP coils, Apex Catchcan, Vortech V7 Ysi Supercharger, LSX B-15 engine, custom spec cam, and other stuff.
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05-25-2020, 12:27 PM | #6 | |
Drives: Black '13 2SS/RS/1LE w/NPP/NAV Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa by way of Miami...
Posts: 4,934
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Quote:
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05-25-2020, 02:21 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS VR 1LE Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Prince George, B.C.
Posts: 486
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I went poly. Back when I changed over, I had heard that solid is just that...SOLID. So my choice was poly. Maybe others can chime in on this and give us their feed back on solid or poly
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BC Racing coil-overs, 32ml rear sway bar, Solid cradle bushing kit, Steel jacket radius rod bushes, JPSS caster bolt, Bo White TB, Granitelli HP coils, Apex Catchcan, Vortech V7 Ysi Supercharger, LSX B-15 engine, custom spec cam, and other stuff.
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05-25-2020, 02:48 PM | #8 |
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Drives: 2013 Sparkly Red One Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Hospitality State
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ZL1 sway bar set on full stiff cured this issue for me.
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05-25-2020, 03:06 PM | #9 |
Drives: Black '13 2SS/RS/1LE w/NPP/NAV Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa by way of Miami...
Posts: 4,934
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I have one of the 32mm Pedders Bars out back. That might be part of why I have zero issues.
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05-25-2020, 03:07 PM | #10 | |
Drives: Black '13 2SS/RS/1LE w/NPP/NAV Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa by way of Miami...
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Quote:
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05-25-2020, 10:27 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro 2SS RS 1LE AGM Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Galion, Oh
Posts: 531
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1LEs have a ZL1 rear sway bar from factory.
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2015 2SS RS 1LE NPP/w Kooks headers, Procharged, ID1050X injectors, Katech belt tensioner, Mighty Mouse Catch Can, BMR subframe connectors, Matco driveshaft loop, AEM Wideband/Boost/Fuel gauges , Z/28 Splitter and Spoiler/w Wicker bill, Power Stop rotors and brake pads, MRR Z/28 Rep Wheels 20" w/p zeros 285 fronts and 305 rears, ZL1 addons Rock guards and Tow hook, Rear window louvers, Flags on the quarter windows and the moonroof, Billet aluminum door handles.
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05-25-2020, 10:40 PM | #12 |
Drives: Black '13 2SS/RS/1LE w/NPP/NAV Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa by way of Miami...
Posts: 4,934
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Yeah, it's 28mm rear and 27mm front. I added a Pedders 32mm rear bar years ago.
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05-26-2020, 10:54 AM | #13 |
SoCal Camaro5 Race Team
Drives: 2021 Shadow Grey Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: SO CAL
Posts: 14,321
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Yeah big rear bar helps. I have bmr poly cradle bushings, toe Links, trail arms, upper arm inner bushings to eliminate any wheel hop and help my dse bar keep it all in line. And the dse rear bar is set soft with no issues
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05-26-2020, 11:12 AM | #14 |
SomeguyK
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 1,947
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I'm reaching here. But how wide are your tires and how low are you? I had a problem with the inside of my tires (315's) hitting the wheel well and causing me to go left and right. As if the rear was steering. I had all the suspension mods that are in my sig below. I didn't realize how close the tire was to the wheel well liner. I couldn't figure it out until I pulled the wheel off. There were signs of the tires rubbing the plastic liner. I cut out part of the liner and rasied the car slightly. That fixed my problem.
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
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