Rides terrible with new Springs/Struts.

[dfwRobert]

So I finally replaced my springs and struts. I said I wouldn't pull the trigger on anything until the road construction was complete on my commute and it's done thankfully.

I went with Bilstein B6's and BMR 1.25 drop springs. These springs are supposedly linear rate springs like the factory. My thinking was that the car would not have to compress some softer part of a duel rate or progressive spring and be much more responsive. All on all the time if you will. No turbo lag lol.

I have had some super stiff low cars in the past. But the car is stiffly sprung and BOUNCY. Like a pogo stick. Big bumps are fine. The shocks do their job and arrest the suspension immediately. The little stuff is where it is worse. I can't tell if it is just the whole car is so stiff and tight it wont give and I feel everything. Or maybe then shocks aren't matched well to the springs for smallish bumps.

Anyone have B6s? What springs?

Please note, not a slam against BMR or Bilstein. I have not seen this combo recommended by anyone and kinda went my own direction.

The car drives great. I have tons of front camber, it corners flat and I can't imagine needing more grip in the front for street use. I planned on running a square setup up front instead of the current 255s but hardly need more traction. It would be more for looks.

[SS 310H55A]

I’m wishing I wouldn’t have read this. I have a set of b6’s and PFADT springs sitting in the garage, which are very similar spring rate to the BMR springs. Curious to see what responses this thread gets.

Edit: did you time your bushings when you installed the springs? I’ve heard that can make it ride bad.

[Firefighter]

9 out of 10 times this complaint leads back to having to time the bushings. Look it up some old posts from Justice Pete will have good explanation. The pics will be gone because he's left the automotive world but he still was good about explaining stuff.

Essentially have all the bushings snug but enough to rotate and get the bushings to rotate. (Rubber bushings use a stiction action to do their job. Poly and Delrin bushings physically rotate.) then once the car is settled in at the new ride height you re tighten all the bushings.

Without this you're essentially riding the bushings instead of springs so your ride is absolute shit.

Do a search and you should find out what you need.

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[terry_b]

Originally Posted by Firefighter

Look it up some old posts from Justice Pete will have good explanation. The pics will be gone because he's left the automotive world but he still was good about explaining stuff.

Left the automotive world?

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[SS 310H55A]

Originally Posted by terry_b

Left the automotive world?

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He shut down shop, stop posting here, and stopped production of his products.

[Firefighter]

Originally Posted by SS 310H55A

He shut down shop, stop posting here, and stopped production of his products.

What he said...

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[dfwRobert]

I'll pull it in real quick tonight if the alignment racks aren't busy and do it and see. Hopefully.

[olblue75]

Double check the shock description they are for stock height cars/springs, might be part of the issue plus Katech Zac did a mod to the shocks as well for lowered springs it’s in the suspension forum and sponsor build forum I believe.

Post 42


https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=554344&page=3

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=557236

[KillboyPowerhead]

As mentioned you may need to "time" the bushings. When you reinstalled the suspension arms did you tighten them all when they were hanging down, or did you jack up the knuckle to approximately ride height first? When I did my coil-overs I didn't time the bushings in the ideal way (on an alignment rack) but instead just jacked up the knuckle to about where it would sit when loaded and tightened everything - not ideal but it works. By tightening everything down when the arms are hanging the bushings will all get torqued/twisted when the weight of the car is on them, and hitting bumps will cause them to "relieve tension" and be springy and bouncy.

If you ask your alignment tech to time/clock/reset the bushings and they look at you confusingly, show them this: https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153188; if they still don't know what you mean I'd either go somewhere else, or do as I did then go back for the alignment.

JusticePete always talked up the BMR springs + B6 combo and said he preferred it to many coil-overs out there, so I suspect your bushings just need to be timed.

[dfwRobert]

Didn’t do it tonight. My kid had graduation stuff going on. But I will Monday hopefully. I was going to do it on an alignment rack instead with a pole jack.

Katech knows there stuff. I’ve followed them since the early 2000s when they built ALMs engines for Corvette. But they either got some wack shocks or Bilstein changed their rear set up or something. The lower perch Zac modded was identical to SS non 1Le perch. I took pics. I’ll post them later.

I thought these BMR rates were close to what DSE had. DSE is what I would buy if money were no thing but they are a little proud of their stuff. I’m sure it’s all made in the USA blah blah blah I have talked to their reps at the good guys about my TA but it is just way to spendy.

[gtstorey]

Originally Posted by SS 310H55A

I’m wishing I wouldn’t have read this. I have a set of b6’s and PFADT springs sitting in the garage, which are very similar spring rate to the BMR springs. Curious to see what responses this thread gets.

Edit: did you time your bushings when you installed the springs? I’ve heard that can make it ride bad.

I REALLY like mine with the B6 and PFADT springs.

[dfwRobert]

I loosened everything in the rear on an alignment rack. Hung on the car and "jounced" the suspension a bit. When I loosened the upper control arm, the one that looks like a boomerang, the car settled a tad.

Anyway, I think it is a little better but still rides like crap. To the point when trying to press buttons on the radio or a/c if you hit bumps your finger may slam into the wrong button. lol.

Solid bushings may be part of it. I have always swapped out bushings, even motor mounts, on all my cars for poly, delrin or alum though and still had better ride quality and handling to be honest.

I have a few ideas I'll share as it happens. Just BUSY all the time and things take while.

[VR Baron]

My Hotchkis springs about same rate as bmr. Those and stock shocks it ride well if not a bit soft in back. The bilstiens or any shock that is stiffer will make it ride more harshly . All lowering springs make the car ride worse by their nature, doesn’t matter what people say to promote them. How acceptable the ride is is all subjective. I have bmr rear poly arms and bushings and they didn’t affect ride, whether I had the stiff Pedders or softer Ridetechs

[Katech_Zach]

Originally Posted by dfwRobert

So I finally replaced my springs and struts. I said I wouldn't pull the trigger on anything until the road construction was complete on my commute and it's done thankfully.

I went with Bilstein B6's and BMR 1.25 drop springs. These springs are supposedly linear rate springs like the factory. My thinking was that the car would not have to compress some softer part of a duel rate or progressive spring and be much more responsive. All on all the time if you will. No turbo lag lol.

I have had some super stiff low cars in the past. But the car is stiffly sprung and BOUNCY. Like a pogo stick. Big bumps are fine. The shocks do their job and arrest the suspension immediately. The little stuff is where it is worse. I can't tell if it is just the whole car is so stiff and tight it wont give and I feel everything. Or maybe then shocks aren't matched well to the springs for smallish bumps.

Anyone have B6s? What springs?

Please note, not a slam against BMR or Bilstein. I have not seen this combo recommended by anyone and kinda went my own direction.

The car drives great. I have tons of front camber, it corners flat and I can't imagine needing more grip in the front for street use. I planned on running a square setup up front instead of the current 255s but hardly need more traction. It would be more for looks.

I am running the Bilstein Combo + BMR Spring combo, my setup is slightly different than what you are running. I am running the V8 1" front spring and the V6 1.2" spring in the rear (less spring rate in the rear). I get some bounce on certain crappy Michigan roads, but I'd say it rides okay and doesn't have the extreme bounce that the lowering springs + worn 1LE shocks had. I did contact BMR in the past, my springs are pretty old and the "dead coils" clank against each other over extremely poor roads, since the springs are technically a dual rate linear (linear at ride height) rather than a standard linear rate spring. That is my only complaint on my setup.

I am maxed out on front camber with the stock strut style w/ a vorshlag camber plate. I will be selling my setup soon to upgrade to a mid-tier single adjustable coilover setup that uses a smaller coil spring with a true linear setup. I am running 19x11's square with 305's all around, with 0 wheel poke. That is as much tire as you will squeeze in the front without poking, you will need perfect offsets