Cradle Bushing Help - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

jethrobandit · 06-16-2020, 03:51 PM

I'm having a really hard time getting my driver side rear bushing to fully seat. Has anyone seen this issue and fixed it?

The other 3 are fully seated and working well. This one will NOT go any further down. I contacted BMR and they said it was safe to drive on and would help it seat, but it has not. I've taken the bottom half completely out and made sure there is nothing keeping the top half from coming further down. I've cranked on the bolt (within reason) and tried knocking the top half and sleeve up, but nothing helps. I've been driving on it since Feb (but that's less than 1k miles) and have taken everything apart 4-5 times. I'm at a loss. And it makes the awfullest squeaking noises over bumps.

gtstorey · 06-16-2020, 05:11 PM

So what's to big or hitting. Is the length of the inner portion of the two bushings longer than the sleeve. I wouldn't think it just hasn't gone far enough in yet. Something must be the wrong size.

jethrobandit · 06-16-2020, 07:24 PM

That's what I can't figure out though. I've even removed the bottom half and only used the weight of the car and the jack against the cradle and it still won't budge. Meaning there isn't anything below it to keep if from going down... that I can see. And same bushings worked on the other side.

Unfortunately I think my only resolution is to drop the entire cradle and pound on it with a hammer. Or remove it in some way and send it back to BMR. I don't know.

InFiD3ViL · 06-16-2020, 07:45 PM

Has BMR offered to replace it? Manufacturing problems to happen from time to time, maybe it's just off by a few mm.

KillboyPowerhead · 06-17-2020, 07:13 AM

I wonder if you remove the top piece and measure the diameter of the piece as well as the subframe void, see if the piece is too big. Is the subframe void completely clean from glue/crap from the factory bushings? If everything looks like it should fit, maybe throw the piece in the freezer for a bit to shrink it and grease up the subframe void.

Also, when reinstalling, based on your pictures it looks like the top of the bushing doesn't sit flat against the car (car isn't flat above the bushing) so maybe try a piece of wood or something flat on top of the bushing to help push the bushing into place more evenly (when using the weight of the car), so it pushes against the subframe locating pin rather the subframe itself.

hesster · 06-17-2020, 07:17 AM

It needs to be seated to function as intended. Should use some kind of tool like this to seat the bushing.

gunchamp · 06-17-2020, 07:33 AM

When I did my cradle bushings, my sleeves were machined incorrectly and wouldnt go over the rear alignment pins so bad parts do happen. And I lubed mine with a plant based synthetic lube to help them seat in place. I dont see any on yours which could make the squeak you are hearing. Did you clean out the inside of the cradle itself really well? I bought a wire wheel that fit in there and I clean the hell out of mine. Used a jack and they did seat. Good luck, hopefully you get it figured out

go_go_gadget88 · 06-17-2020, 09:32 AM

After you pressed out the stock bushings, did you clean the holes out to run the new ones in? Mine had a lot of melted nylon built up in some spots. Possible something like that keeping it from seating?

If not, I would lean towards it just being out of spec juuuuuuust enough to not want to work in that spot. I'm sure the other is a bitch to get out now even with the cradle back down, or I would say swap those 2 around and see if problem follows or goes away. Since it's well seated, maybe reach out to BMR and see if they will swap it?

fz4k98 · 06-17-2020, 09:36 AM

If you can't find the issue by measuring, swap the bushing to the other location that is tight and see if the gap moves with the bushing or stays on the same spot.

If gap moves with bushing, it's bushing.
If gap stays in same spot it is either cradle or assembly technique.
If gap disappears it's assembly technique.

jethrobandit · 06-17-2020, 03:50 PM

It actually is sitting up against the car along the top, the only space is between the bushing and the subframe. Yeah, I continued burning off leftover remnants and then used a small wire brush and finally a dremel brush to make sure they were completely cleaned out before installing.

I'm curious about that tool. May have to make up something like that to get it to work. I'll have to drop the cradle fully down below alignment pin to even get a shot of getting the top half back out. Gotta replace the axles, so should stop worrying about it and just drop the cradle. Thanks all!

davidscamaro · 06-17-2020, 08:52 PM

Lube and force , it will go in

xc_SS/RS · 06-17-2020, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidscamaro

Lube and force , it will go in

That’s what she said

InFiD3ViL · 06-17-2020, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

That’s what she said

Dammit!

LSean1 · 05-07-2023, 04:12 PM

If you're having this issue, check the cup that holds the bushing in place. The top should be flat with a small piece that aligns the dowell inside the bushing. Mine was concave somehow so it didn't matter how tight I made it, it wouldn't go flush. I rented a hub press from Oreillys that worked great pressing it in as well.

06-16-2020, 03:51 PM	#1
jethrobandit Drives: 2013 Black 2SS Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Hendersonville, TN Posts: 78	Cradle Bushing Help I'm having a really hard time getting my driver side rear bushing to fully seat. Has anyone seen this issue and fixed it? The other 3 are fully seated and working well. This one will NOT go any further down. I contacted BMR and they said it was safe to drive on and would help it seat, but it has not. I've taken the bottom half completely out and made sure there is nothing keeping the top half from coming further down. I've cranked on the bolt (within reason) and tried knocking the top half and sleeve up, but nothing helps. I've been driving on it since Feb (but that's less than 1k miles) and have taken everything apart 4-5 times. I'm at a loss. And it makes the awfullest squeaking noises over bumps. __________________ 2013 2SS ::: MiSSy BTR Stage 3 :: GM 3.91 :: Eaton TrueTrac :: SW LT Headers :: Elite Catch Can :: CAI :: ADM Cold Scoop :: VMAX ported TB :: Forza 3Way :: BMR Lowering Springs/Toe Rods/Lower CA/Trailing Arms/Subframe Bushings

06-16-2020, 07:24 PM	#3
jethrobandit Drives: 2013 Black 2SS Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Hendersonville, TN Posts: 78	That's what I can't figure out though. I've even removed the bottom half and only used the weight of the car and the jack against the cradle and it still won't budge. Meaning there isn't anything below it to keep if from going down... that I can see. And same bushings worked on the other side. Unfortunately I think my only resolution is to drop the entire cradle and pound on it with a hammer. Or remove it in some way and send it back to BMR. I don't know. __________________ 2013 2SS ::: MiSSy BTR Stage 3 :: GM 3.91 :: Eaton TrueTrac :: SW LT Headers :: Elite Catch Can :: CAI :: ADM Cold Scoop :: VMAX ported TB :: Forza 3Way :: BMR Lowering Springs/Toe Rods/Lower CA/Trailing Arms/Subframe Bushings

06-16-2020, 07:45 PM	#4
InFiD3ViL Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Swapped A6 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Spring Hill, FL Posts: 4,737	Has BMR offered to replace it? Manufacturing problems to happen from time to time, maybe it's just off by a few mm. __________________ 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS LS3 Swapped A6 - GPI LS3 SS1 .647/.638, (224/237, 112 +4, 7º overlap) on CamMotion 8620 core, BTR Platinum .660" Dual Spring kit w/titanium retainers, CHE bronze trunnion upgrade, stock heads milled @ .015, Melling HV 10296 oil pump, TSP 1-7/8" long tube headers (W/Catless Off-road Pipes), Corsa Xtreme 3" Catback, GPI Ported/Rod Mod Intake, Stage 2 Ported Throttle Body, Vararam OTR CAI, Mike Norris Gen 2 catch can + GM 1LE clean side separator, 160º thermostat - Megan Racing adjustable coilovers (lowered 1.75"), MRR M017 10/11" wheels-Tuned by Ryan @ GPI

06-17-2020, 07:13 AM	#5
KillboyPowerhead Drives: 2015 Z/22 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 988	I wonder if you remove the top piece and measure the diameter of the piece as well as the subframe void, see if the piece is too big. Is the subframe void completely clean from glue/crap from the factory bushings? If everything looks like it should fit, maybe throw the piece in the freezer for a bit to shrink it and grease up the subframe void. Also, when reinstalling, based on your pictures it looks like the top of the bushing doesn't sit flat against the car (car isn't flat above the bushing) so maybe try a piece of wood or something flat on top of the bushing to help push the bushing into place more evenly (when using the weight of the car), so it pushes against the subframe locating pin rather the subframe itself. __________________ Overkill/Self Tuned; Mace Camshafts; K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake; Ported 80mm Throttle Body/Intake Manifolds/Manifold Spacer; Solo Performance High-Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust; Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller; Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can; BC Racing BR Coilovers; JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Bushing Inserts, Sway Bars; Pegasus Aluminum Rear Cradle Bushings, Camber/Caster Plates; Z/28 Toe Links, Trailing Arms, Upper Control Arm Bushings, Rear Shock Mounts

06-17-2020, 07:17 AM	#6
hesster Drives: '10 T/A Conv, '10 2SS, '77 SE T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 898 View My Garage	It needs to be seated to function as intended. Should use some kind of tool like this to seat the bushing. Attached Images

06-16-2020, 05:11 PM	#2
gtstorey Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 2,453	So what's to big or hitting. Is the length of the inner portion of the two bushings longer than the sleeve. I wouldn't think it just hasn't gone far enough in yet. Something must be the wrong size.

06-17-2020, 07:33 AM	#7
gunchamp Drives: 15 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Mountains of central PA Posts: 1,442	When I did my cradle bushings, my sleeves were machined incorrectly and wouldnt go over the rear alignment pins so bad parts do happen. And I lubed mine with a plant based synthetic lube to help them seat in place. I dont see any on yours which could make the squeak you are hearing. Did you clean out the inside of the cradle itself really well? I bought a wire wheel that fit in there and I clean the hell out of mine. Used a jack and they did seat. Good luck, hopefully you get it figured out __________________ 15 Camaro SS- GPI max top end, ESS Vortech V3 9psi, ID 1050s, ZL1 pump, JMS bap, Long tubes, Corsa extreme, Circle D pro 5C, 391 rear, DSS carbon drive shaft, poly cradle bushings, tuned by Ted Jannetty and much much more

06-17-2020, 09:32 AM	#8
go_go_gadget88 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS ABM 6M Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Kansas Posts: 617	After you pressed out the stock bushings, did you clean the holes out to run the new ones in? Mine had a lot of melted nylon built up in some spots. Possible something like that keeping it from seating? If not, I would lean towards it just being out of spec juuuuuuust enough to not want to work in that spot. I'm sure the other is a bitch to get out now even with the cradle back down, or I would say swap those 2 around and see if problem follows or goes away. Since it's well seated, maybe reach out to BMR and see if they will swap it? __________________ 2010 ABM 2SS/RS LS3 6 Speed -- Rotofab CAI \| Speed Engineering 1 7/8" Longtubes w/ cat Delete \| Magnaflow competition catback \| TSP 231/246 cam\| TSP/PAC .660" Spring Kit \| TSP CNC Ported Heads \| Bo White PTB \| GPI Ported/RM Intake \| 3.91's \| BC Catch Can \| MGW Shifter \| BMR 1" Drop Springs \| BMR Trailing arms/Toe Rods/Rear UCA Bushings \| Pegasus Subframe Mounts

06-17-2020, 09:36 AM	#9
fz4k98 Drives: 2013 1ss Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: WI. Posts: 569	If you can't find the issue by measuring, swap the bushing to the other location that is tight and see if the gap moves with the bushing or stays on the same spot. If gap moves with bushing, it's bushing. If gap stays in same spot it is either cradle or assembly technique. If gap disappears it's assembly technique.

06-17-2020, 03:50 PM	#10
jethrobandit Drives: 2013 Black 2SS Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Hendersonville, TN Posts: 78	It actually is sitting up against the car along the top, the only space is between the bushing and the subframe. Yeah, I continued burning off leftover remnants and then used a small wire brush and finally a dremel brush to make sure they were completely cleaned out before installing. I'm curious about that tool. May have to make up something like that to get it to work. I'll have to drop the cradle fully down below alignment pin to even get a shot of getting the top half back out. Gotta replace the axles, so should stop worrying about it and just drop the cradle. Thanks all! __________________ 2013 2SS ::: MiSSy BTR Stage 3 :: GM 3.91 :: Eaton TrueTrac :: SW LT Headers :: Elite Catch Can :: CAI :: ADM Cold Scoop :: VMAX ported TB :: Forza 3Way :: BMR Lowering Springs/Toe Rods/Lower CA/Trailing Arms/Subframe Bushings

06-17-2020, 08:52 PM	#11
davidscamaro Drives: 2010 SS/RS M6 BIG cam Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: McDonald's DT Posts: 856	Lube and force , it will go in __________________ BIG cam ...... 305 45 18 Mickys ...... BMR suspensions

05-07-2023, 04:12 PM	#14
LSean1 Drives: 2013 Chevrolet Camaro SS Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 2	If you're having this issue, check the cup that holds the bushing in place. The top should be flat with a small piece that aligns the dowell inside the bushing. Mine was concave somehow so it didn't matter how tight I made it, it wouldn't go flush. I rented a hub press from Oreillys that worked great pressing it in as well. Attached Images