Retaining factory B.A. amp with latest PAC RPK5 Dash kit

[VeeGeeTea]

Originally Posted by Dahita

The sound comes from all 9 speakers, but I can only push the system to a medium volume before the sound distorts a lot.

It sounds like the output on your radio is over amplified before it goes through your BA amplifier.

1) Try upgrading your radio firmware: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...0NEX#downloads

2) It may be good to check your radio's manual to see if there is a way to adjust your output volume to your amp:
https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/S...nual012116.pdf

See if that works for you.

[Dahita]

Thanks for your help,

I ended up changing the whole system (amplifier and speakers).

It seems that PAC has changed the audio labels on the RPK GM4101. the left plug is now the AMPLIFIER plug (seems like I had it right all along), the right is for the standard sound system (which is why it sounded so amplified.

This means to me that the sound was not reproduced correctly when I switched the factory head unit with he Pioneer head unit.

Now that I have replaced everything, it sounds great again. however, I could never really get that "sub" feeling from the back speaker. I don't know how GM did it, but they did it well.

[VeeGeeTea]

Originally Posted by Dahita

Thanks for your help,

I ended up changing the whole system (amplifier and speakers).

It seems that PAC has changed the audio labels on the RPK GM4101. the left plug is now the AMPLIFIER plug (seems like I had it right all along), the right is for the standard sound system (which is why it sounded so amplified.

This means to me that the sound was not reproduced correctly when I switched the factory head unit with he Pioneer head unit.

Now that I have replaced everything, it sounds great again. however, I could never really get that "sub" feeling from the back speaker. I don't know how GM did it, but they did it well.

You need to adjust your cutoff frequency. Not sure if your amplifier has that option.

You may need to split your L/R signal onto another mono amp that is D class explicitly for the bass on the rear speakers.

So two amp at least in total, one for the front cabin and another for the rear 6x9 sub-woofers by the rear passenger seats

[Dahita]

I have a 4x100 watts PDX -F4, you can power or do anything with that

The "boom" I'm referring to is related to the speakers. The GM speakers from the premium sound system had a very specific punch that I was not able to reproduce with 2 Morel Integra Ultra 692.

I'm having them changed with 2x CDT 0691 CFX as I'm typing this. We'll see ^^

PS: as a side note, the overall sound is obviously much better.

[Dahita]

I'd like close this topic properly by adding my feedback after finishing the audio system of my car using the PAC system, and all the bumps I encountered.

First of all, I could never figure out exactly what was wrong with the sound of my car while using the PAC module. I tried absolutely everything, the sound never sounded the same as it did beforehand (literally like if the amp was turned off). I tried everything possible (wiring the amp with the red cable instead, switching connections for the factory audio connector, etc).

Then I considered changing the amp (which is the weakest part of the Boston Acoustic system anyway) and connecting it directly to my head unit. Problem: the cables connecting the amp to the speakers use proprietary connectors. You can find such connectors on the internet, but 3 months ago they were out of stock. I thought about replacing the wires are well but, of course, the speakers ALSO use proprietary plugs, so either way I had to find some adapters.

While considering all my options, I started realizing that, although the speakers used for the Boston Acoustics system sound good in the back of the vehicle (not so much in the front), they are made out of paper, so after 5 years, they start to wear out. After much consideration, I decided to replace the whole system.

I decided to go with the following:
- Alpine PDX-F4 (100x4 RMS)
- JL C5-650 (75 RMS / 48-25 KHz)
- Morel Tempo Integra Ultra 690 (140RMS / 35-22Hz)

all this linked to a Pioneer 4200 head unit.

I chose the Morel in the back on purpose to avoid buying a subwoofer, as I am not particularly fond of using the trunk space and I know that good speakers can go low enough that you can't really tell the difference (35hz!).

However, after having all of this installed professionally, it proved to be a half-way disappointment. On the front of the vehicle, the JL Audio sounded amazing. However, the back felt empty of bass, delivering only medium and highs, with a total lack of pressure. After much testing, I came to the conclusion that these speakers were just not delivering enough watts and decided to go with speakers that were requiring even more power to handle (CDT 0691 CFX, 220WRMS, sub-woofer type speakers). The result was even worse! How could a more powerful amp and much sturdier speakers sound worse bass-wise than a 250 watts cheap amplifier and paper speakers?!

That's when the answer finally hit me; my amp-to-speaker ratio was bad. A speaker that is not properly powered will only be able to play highs and mediums. The lower range of the spectrum is what sucks up all the watts; any shortage in power and your bass will be impacted first. A good ratio is 4/3 For Amplifier RMS power / Speaker’s power handling WRMS. With 100x4 WRMS, I was too short for the Morel’s 140 WRMS and even more so for the CDT’s 220 WRMS.

I ended up buying a pair of Focal 690 AC (75WRMS) and immediately, the whole system came to life. Now, my car sounds like an auditorium, even when the engine is on. I have never heard anything better, far beyond what the system sounded like before. Job done.

So here are my closing thoughts, lessons learned for the next car I’ll buy:
- Have the dash kit professionally installed; Camaros are NOT easy cars to work with (tight space to work in, no direct access to rear speakers, ultra-tight head-unit room for back-cables), it’ll cost you 300 bucks and save you a LOT of trouble.
- Always go for the cheap sound system when buying the car the first time; no option from factory will sound better than a custom install
- Always install a custom sound with hand-picked components for the proper Amp/speaker power ratio
- Don’t be cheap on the amplifier; this is definitely the most important piece of the set-up
- Go for the PAC system, it looks incredible in the car

Cheers

[Lawdog86]

Great install video!!!!! https://youtu.be/jP28s8uyjVI

[wacoustics]

I know this is an old thread, but had some similar issues. The guys at PAC said on the 5th gen convertible that cutting the 4 brown loop wires going into the factory amplified connector and inserting 1k ohm resistors would put the impedance more in line with the factory head unit. Made a big difference for me leveraging the rest of the Boston Acoustics system.

[imponte]

Originally Posted by wacoustics

I know this is an old thread, but had some similar issues. The guys at PAC said on the 5th gen convertible that cutting the 4 brown loop wires going into the factory amplified connector and inserting 1k ohm resistors would put the impedance more in line with the factory head unit. Made a big difference for me leveraging the rest of the Boston Acoustics system.

How did you do that? Do you have picture? I have the same problem, i connected the wires to non-amplified(standart) connector hole. But now i have very loud sound. If i connect to amplified hole, i had distorted sound at medium level. Please help me, im going crazy

[imponte]

Update!!
I did that and works perfect. Just installed the 1k- 1watt ohm resistor to the brown looping wires, and now much much better. I also plugged the ''amplified'' hole.

[VeeGeeTea]

You need to configure your PAC module to use factory amp option and update the firmware on it. Visit PAC to get the software and hook up the kit via USB to your laptop.