2013 ZL1 engine cooling upgrade recommendation?

[lrramboe]

Hi,
Last year I experienced some running hot symptoms in my 2013 ZL1. Currently it has 23K miles, mostly stock. Dealership could not duplicate or address the 213F to 245F verified engine coolant problem, additionally the A/C shut down( stopped cooling) when the engine reached 225F degrees. Compressor engaged after engine cooled down to 215F degrees. Before retirement I worked as a ASE certified Heavy Equipment tech and shop foreman so I am not inexperienced. Maintenance since purchase (9600 miles) has included ALL hoses, performance belts, T/stat, coolant w/ distilled water mix, and so on.
Question I have is:
Any recommendations for a larger radiator, as in where to buy it?
Normal cooling diagnostics have been performed, Thermostat working, Fan(s) cut in/off settings, Coolant analysis and oil analysis too, no headgasket leaks or any other problems noted. Maybe I'm being a little anal but here in Phoenix AZ. A/C is considered essential during the summer and I do not want to shorten the life of my engine. Open to suggestions!
As a footnote the intercooler, a/c condenser and radiator are bug free with no blockage. Simply added some aluminum screen to act as a bug, rock and other debris shield, old trick from heavy equipment working offroad. Maintenance has been far superior than recommended including ALL fluids changed out based on time rather than mileage. Also did/do a fluid analysis on everything serviced. Old habit again from working on off road vehicles. So I'll be the first to admit I do not know everything so HELP?

[JB'sZL1]

Did you perform a complete flush? Silicone based coolant needs to be changed and flushed every 5 years.

Forget the T Stat. I would install an Afco dual fan radiator with a switch on the dash: you turn on whenever you want. Water Wetter can cool it a few more degrees in your hot climate. That should keep you cool enough unless you track it.

[Risingson05]

I was told to wire the fans into the pump that way the fans kick on with the pump?

[JB'sZL1]

Also, did the overheating occur after the fluid change? You could have an airlock in the sc coolant system.

And, did this occur when cruising down the freeway, or in city traffic?

[JB'sZL1]

Originally Posted by Risingson05

I was told to wire the fans into the pump that way the fans kick on with the pump?

That's not incorrect...there are a number of ways to wire it. The purpose behind a manual switch is one has complete control over the fans...if you are stuck in a traffic jam on a blistering day, you can preempt overheating by turning the fans on sooner, rather than later. Also, some complain of the Afco fans being obnoxiously loud...I don't notice with my exhaust.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by lrramboe

Hi,
Last year I experienced some running hot symptoms in my 2013 ZL1. Currently it has 23K miles, mostly stock. Dealership could not duplicate or address the 213F to 245F verified engine coolant problem, additionally the A/C shut down( stopped cooling) when the engine reached 225F degrees. Compressor engaged after engine cooled down to 215F degrees. Before retirement I worked as a ASE certified Heavy Equipment tech and shop foreman so I am not inexperienced. Maintenance since purchase (9600 miles) has included ALL hoses, performance belts, T/stat, coolant w/ distilled water mix, and so on.
Question I have is:
Any recommendations for a larger radiator, as in where to buy it?
Normal cooling diagnostics have been performed, Thermostat working, Fan(s) cut in/off settings, Coolant analysis and oil analysis too, no headgasket leaks or any other problems noted. Maybe I'm being a little anal but here in Phoenix AZ. A/C is considered essential during the summer and I do not want to shorten the life of my engine. Open to suggestions!
As a footnote the intercooler, a/c condenser and radiator are bug free with no blockage. Simply added some aluminum screen to act as a bug, rock and other debris shield, old trick from heavy equipment working offroad. Maintenance has been far superior than recommended including ALL fluids changed out based on time rather than mileage. Also did/do a fluid analysis on everything serviced. Old habit again from working on off road vehicles. So I'll be the first to admit I do not know everything so HELP?

LSA's blocks are notorious for cavity block, the GM spec requires that your negative pressure fill. I use a MAC tools negative pressure filler. If you don't have a reservoir on the SC it should be negative filled as well but that's not going to cause the block to overheat.

[silversleeper]

If the screen is fine, like over your house windows, and right next to the various radiators that could be the cause. It would be my first look, second would be a vacuum on the coolant to ensure no remaining bubble some where since it was changed. IDK how sensitive these cars are to that, usually just refilling them and let them burp themselves but some cars that's not good enough. From there I'd try a new high quality thermostadt and ensure fans are running. Some go intermittant and do this.

[Vegas Bound]

Ron Davis radiator, 160 t-stat, program fans to be 100% at 160 degrees. I never had a problem in Dallas or Las Vegas. Water temp seldom got above 200 degrees.

[gen=5]

The t stat could be simply sticking or as said air lock..if the fans are coming on, and there’s no engine issues it’s one of two things..coolant or flow in my opinion ive turned a wrench for 30yrs before being disabled..

[2013ZL1FUN]

I think we are overlooking the blockage that the screen is causing, I would remove it, as I think it is impeding air flow.

[lrramboe]

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

Did you perform a complete flush? Silicone based coolant needs to be changed and flushed every 5 years.

Forget the T Stat. I would install an Afco dual fan radiator with a switch on the dash: you turn on whenever you want. Water Wetter can cool it a few more degrees in your hot climate. That should keep you cool enough unless you track it.

Already have a factory dual fan setup. Wonder if the fan cut-in can be modified to work a little sooner?

[HDRDTD]

Any chance there might be an air pocket somewhere?

[lrramboe]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

If the screen is fine, like over your house windows, and right next to the various radiators that could be the cause. It would be my first look, second would be a vacuum on the coolant to ensure no remaining bubble some where since it was changed. IDK how sensitive these cars are to that, usually just refilling them and let them burp themselves but some cars that's not good enough. From there I'd try a new high quality thermostadt and ensure fans are running. Some go intermittant and do this.

Screen is not the heating up cause. Same thing (screen) on everything I have owned/own. Currently on 2009 Escalade Hybrid, 2012 Hyundai Sonata Limited turbocharged (modified) 2001 GMC 2500HD w/8.1L engine and my old 1972 Chevy C10 with Highly modified Corvette LT1 383 engine. I'll start with a high quality 180 degree t/stat so the engine will continue to run closed loop, something a 160 may not let the programming do. Fans have been checked and verified they are working properly. Wish me luck!

[lrramboe]

Originally Posted by HDRDTD

Any chance there might be an air pocket somewhere?

Thanks, verified full system flush with no air pockets, at that time I serviced the cooling system lifted the front end high to bleed off any air trapped in the cooling system, ran until t/state opened without pressure and did the same thing next morning.