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Old 10-14-2021, 12:02 PM   #1
MSgt O

 
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6sp Manual Transmission Fluid Changes

How often you manual gearbox peoples change your fluid? Just curious as to what has worked out best for manuals...
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Old 10-14-2021, 12:40 PM   #2
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In the European handbook written after 20K miles.
I use Redl Line D4 ATF.

It is noticeably better in cold ride.
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Old 10-14-2021, 12:45 PM   #3
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Have never changed manual transmission fluid in any car I ever had. I've had 17 manual transmission in my life.
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Old 10-14-2021, 05:45 PM   #4
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Every season when I tracked, for a DD, I changed it at 22k miles, then probably again at 50k
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Old 10-14-2021, 08:41 PM   #5
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@george CZ you use Automatic Transmission Fluid in a manual? Anyone else use ATF? or is it supposed to be gear oil? Both Royal Pruple and Amsoil make a synchromesh/synchromax fluid for manuals. Anyone have any experience with these?
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Old 10-14-2021, 08:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSgt O View Post
@george CZ you use Automatic Transmission Fluid in a manual? Anyone else use ATF? or is it supposed to be gear oil? Both Royal Pruple and Amsoil make a synchromesh/synchromax fluid for manuals. Anyone have any experience with these?
V8s are ATF. I used Mobil1 ATF in my TR6060 1LE SS. The v6 models use gear oil. I use Royal Purple 75 90 in my RS
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Old 10-15-2021, 03:06 AM   #7
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@george CZ you use Automatic Transmission Fluid in a manual? Anyone else use ATF? or is it supposed to be gear oil? Both Royal Pruple and Amsoil make a synchromesh/synchromax fluid for manuals. Anyone have any experience with these?
This oil is designed for both automatic and manual transmissions.
It is also written on it.

I chose this oil due to poor shifting before the transmission oil reached operating temperature.
There has always been a problem with 2nd gear.
But as the oil warmed up, everything leveled up and worked smoothly.

I thought that the TR6060 gearboxes were assembled with small tolerances and that the cold thick oil did not lubricate all the parts well.
That's why I tried to use thin ATF oil and it significantly helped.
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K&N CAI, Stainless Power longtubes, high flow cats, modified Ragazzon High Performance axle back, Soler Performance ported throttle body, Soler Performance throttle controller, RAM clutch adjuster, modified LS7 clutch kit, Tick Performance billet bearing support, Tick Performance remote bleeder, separate clutch reservoir, BMR trailing arms, BMR toe rods, Pedders Suspension cradle bushing inserts, Control Arm Bushings, Strut tower brace, oil catch can, Hurst T-handle shifter, 20mm wheel spacers, DBA brakes, QTP Cutouts, Dynosteve tune.
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Old 10-15-2021, 08:12 AM   #8
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Ive noticed that also, going into second when cold is a struggle! Like the synchros are off or something..Guess before winter she gets new Tranny Fluid....or perhaps this will be a winter project to get her ready for spring! Exhaust and Lowering springs are already on the way...add more to the list..Thanks all for the responses!
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Old 10-15-2021, 11:27 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by MSgt O View Post
Ive noticed that also, going into second when cold is a struggle! Like the synchros are off or something..Guess before winter she gets new Tranny Fluid....or perhaps this will be a winter project to get her ready for spring! Exhaust and Lowering springs are already on the way...add more to the list..Thanks all for the responses!
This will make the fight against shifting much easier before you change the oil.
Try to shift as if you were driving with a car without synchronization.
1-2 between 1 and 2 in neutral, release and depress the clutch again.
And from 3-2 in neutral release the clutch, light throttle and again the clutch and 2.

Like this...

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Old 10-15-2021, 02:23 PM   #10
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like driving with no clutch, been there done that in my old CJ5...AND to note: Tremec says to NEVER change the oil, unless its been overheated or raced..

Q. when should i change my transmission fluid: A: Under normal driving conditions the fluid should never require changing. For severe driving or racing, fluid changes should be made frequently, especially when operating temperatures of the transmission fluid exceed 250°F.

Still changing mine though...rear brakes are on the schedule for this weekend on my Taco though...
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Old 10-15-2021, 02:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSgt O View Post
like driving with no clutch, been there done that in my old CJ5...AND to note: Tremec says to NEVER change the oil, unless its been overheated or raced..

Q. when should i change my transmission fluid: A: Under normal driving conditions the fluid should never require changing. For severe driving or racing, fluid changes should be made frequently, especially when operating temperatures of the transmission fluid exceed 250°F.

Still changing mine though...rear brakes are on the schedule for this weekend on my Taco though...
If you are unsure, ask yourself what will go wrong with the fresh and clean oil in your transmission.

Do you think that 9 years old dirty oil will be better than new?

Despite the fact that with the new lighter oil, I almost have no problem shifting with a cold transmission.
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K&N CAI, Stainless Power longtubes, high flow cats, modified Ragazzon High Performance axle back, Soler Performance ported throttle body, Soler Performance throttle controller, RAM clutch adjuster, modified LS7 clutch kit, Tick Performance billet bearing support, Tick Performance remote bleeder, separate clutch reservoir, BMR trailing arms, BMR toe rods, Pedders Suspension cradle bushing inserts, Control Arm Bushings, Strut tower brace, oil catch can, Hurst T-handle shifter, 20mm wheel spacers, DBA brakes, QTP Cutouts, Dynosteve tune.
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Old 10-15-2021, 03:05 PM   #12
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Thanks George! Yep, I will be changing mine! Thanks for all the info everyone
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Old 10-15-2021, 03:16 PM   #13
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Thanks George! Yep, I will be changing mine! Thanks for all the info everyone
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My life is a constant struggle with Camaro.

K&N CAI, Stainless Power longtubes, high flow cats, modified Ragazzon High Performance axle back, Soler Performance ported throttle body, Soler Performance throttle controller, RAM clutch adjuster, modified LS7 clutch kit, Tick Performance billet bearing support, Tick Performance remote bleeder, separate clutch reservoir, BMR trailing arms, BMR toe rods, Pedders Suspension cradle bushing inserts, Control Arm Bushings, Strut tower brace, oil catch can, Hurst T-handle shifter, 20mm wheel spacers, DBA brakes, QTP Cutouts, Dynosteve tune.
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