engine won´t start when hot - problem solved

[rackmaster]

I replaced the battery, bought 2-starters, added the xtra ground cable. Nothing worked. When my car was hot it wouldn’t start. I replaced both the positive and Negative battery cables from the trunk all the way to the starter and it works perfect now. So there is a problem with the battery cables in these vehicles. It took a lot of work. Because the cables run inside your car. So you must remove your interior to get it done. But I have had absolutely no problems since then. And it’s been really hot this summer.

[caper]

Originally Posted by rackmaster

I replaced the battery, bought 2-starters, added the xtra ground cable. Nothing worked. When my car was hot it wouldn’t start. I replaced both the positive and Negative battery cables from the trunk all the way to the starter and it works perfect now. So there is a problem with the battery cables in these vehicles. It took a lot of work. Because the cables run inside your car. So you must remove your interior to get it done. But I have had absolutely no problems since then. And it’s been really hot this summer.

I did all that and more...I guess that's my next step. damn. you did this yourself? any tips? what all had to be pulled out? the car is useless unless this is resolved.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by caper

I did all that and more...I guess that's my next step. damn. you did this yourself? any tips? what all had to be pulled out? the car is useless unless this is resolved.

fyi... there is no negative cable that runs from the trunk to the engine. The negative trunk cable is grounded to the trunk chassis then from the engine chassis to the engine block

You should consider adding a Bypass Cable to the underhood positive battery terminal before attempting to replace the entire positive cable. See post 84 in this thread

[caper]

Originally Posted by camguynj

fyi... there is no negative cable that runs from the trunk to the engine. The negative trunk cable is grounded to the trunk chassis then from the engine chassis to the engine block

You should consider adding a Bypass Cable to the underhood positive battery terminal before attempting to replace the entire positive cable. See post 84 in this thread

already did the bypass, and also replaced the wire running from the junction to the starter. also have added a ground from engine to chassis. none fixed it for long.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by caper

already did the bypass, and also replaced the wire running from the junction to the starter. also have added a ground from engine to chassis. none fixed it for long.

Did you try wrapping the starter? Also you may want to try adding a ground from the passenger side front chassis negative pigtail ground directly to the starter.

[caper]

Originally Posted by camguynj

Did you try wrapping the starter? Also you may want to try adding a ground from the passenger side front chassis negative pigtail ground directly to the starter.

I did put a heat shield over the starter, but not wrapping it. it was getting very hot. ill try the other ground as well.

[CJ27]

Originally Posted by camguynj

You may want to try adding a Bypass Cable to the underhood positive battery terminal see posts 49 & 55 in this thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=399658&page=4
This resolved the starter heat soak hot start problem for almost every guy who still had the problem after having already added a 2nd ground and replacing the battery &
Use a 9" 1/0 gauge cable with 1" of each end's insulation stripped off, then join each end to the post cable using a #1/0 copper split bolt. You also need to strip some insulation from each side of the post cable where they’ll join. Then wrap each end split bolt connection with two different grades electrical tape for a secure insulated permanent connection. Don’t forget to DISCONNECT THE TRUNK NEGATIVE CABLE FIRST !!!

See post 64 in this thread for an explanation of why this provides more power to the starter https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...g#post10107568

Thanks for the help. Never had this issue until I did the btr stage 2 cam. I think it is the fuel in the fuel rails boiling not a voltage or amperage to the starter issue. This magnuson seems to get the rails hotter then the stock blowers do.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by CJ27

Thanks for the help. Never had this issue until I did the btr stage 2 cam. I think it is the fuel in the fuel rails boiling not a voltage or amperage to the starter issue. This magnuson seems to get the rails hotter then the stock blowers do.

Wouldn't think fuel rail starvation would cause slow cranking. Still should consider adding a bypass cable to the positive jumper post cable.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by caper

I did put a heat shield over the starter, but not wrapping it. it was getting very hot. ill try the other ground as well.

Surprised you had to put a heat shield on as the starter comes from the factory with one FWIW.
If you’re not first owner maybe prior owner removed it or it got removed during turbo mod.

[caper]

Originally Posted by camguynj

Surprised you had to put a heat shield on as the starter comes from the factory with one FWIW.
If you’re not first owner maybe prior owner removed it or it got removed during turbo mod.

no, that was me. it was likely not put on during one of the 3 previous engine removals lol (now on 4)

[D1ws6]

I'm just amazed how dumb GM is! They've had this issue since the fifth gen.

[caper]

figure i would update. car is running now and back together. immediately started having this issue again. replaced both the starter AGAIN with a torquemaster,and wrapped it in heat wrap... and the CPS sensor and the pigtail wiring going to it....a week later, same issue!!!! now the battery was screwed (despite being less than a year old)...replaced that and added a thick ground wire (basically a battery cable from autozone) from the trans mount to the bolt on the passenger side - super easy to do - its been doing great since!!! however i noticed that my turbo downpipe and manifold are not wrapped and it a matter of time before that heat gets to the starter again (they are very close), so they are being wrapped right now....i hope this SOLVES IT!!! fingers crossed.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by caper

figure i would update. car is running now and back together. immediately started having this issue again. replaced both the starter AGAIN with a torquemaster,and wrapped it in heat wrap... and the CPS sensor and the pigtail wiring going to it....a week later, same issue!!!! now the battery was screwed (despite being less than a year old)...replaced that and added a thick ground wire (basically a battery cable from autozone) from the trans mount to the bolt on the passenger side - super easy to do - its been doing great since!!! however i noticed that my turbo downpipe and manifold are not wrapped and it a matter of time before that heat gets to the starter again (they are very close), so they are being wrapped right now....i hope this SOLVES IT!!! fingers crossed.

Very cool! Hope you get it this time! Have you got a pic by chance of the "extra" cable you installed? Thanks sir.

[caper]

Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS

Very cool! Hope you get it this time! Have you got a pic by chance of the "extra" cable you installed? Thanks sir.

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...able/95947_0_0

looked like that, about 18" long...looked A LOT like the one sold for much more at the camaro site...bolted up fine to both bolts and looped over the exhaust.