How to remove the oil pan ?

[CFD]

I haven't had a need to get back under there but could a couple of alignment marks be made to aid in installation. Perhaps scribing a line or two.

[nikon2003]

With my oil cooler removed and the crossmember cut I didn't have to do anything to my steering rack. Pan slid right out on my 2010

[RS Speedriver]

ASK GOOGLE. HE KNOWS BEST

[chiel]

i removed crossbar , i cant weld, i cant bring car to weldshop, so i brought the middle piece to weldshop. They put 2 pieces of iron on it , 1 on top 1 at bottom , app 5 cm longer each side. Drilled some holes in bottom strip, tap some tread in top 1, Two bolts and ready to use. i tried to attach 2 pics of it.

[FasNuf]

I am in the middle of all this right now. So far the pan is down a bit but cannot clear the front. It looks like I'm going to try to move the rack forward. I will index it first to avoid unnecessary gross misalignment. It should be pretty easy to get to because the whole front of the car is off. The valley tray lift idea wouldve been good if I still had the top end off, but I don't have a cherry picker and I just put it all back a month or so ago.
I also had to unbolt the cooler from the pan. A royal pain because I still have my headers in. It would've been a hell of a lot easier with them out but I have Stage8 locks and wanted to avoid removing all that.

Wish me luck.

[FasNuf]

OK, well for me I had to do a bit to get this thing out. Of course I had CFD's removeable crossmember, a huge plus, but also had to remove the oil cooler from the pan, remove the alternator, loosen all the clips on all the cooling lines, pull the 4 bolts on the sway bar so the steering rack could come forward as well. I needed to loosen the bolt on the steering shaft near the rack so it could come out a little. Thankfully it stayed in there. The final hangup was the wiring tray that crosses under the pan. That single SOB of a bolt behind the a/c compressor mount bracket was near impossible to get out, but after it was gone, the pan fell out.
Installation has to be easier right? LOL

[Bo White]

Correct. On page 3 of my link I posted I found the same same had to be done. Unbolt the rack and pinion and slide it forward. I didn't have to mess with the alternator. When it came to the cooler all I had to do was unhook the hoses.

[FasNuf]

Originally Posted by Bo White

Correct. On page 3 of my link I posted I found the same same had to be done. Unbolt the rack and pinion and slide it forward. I didn't have to mess with the alternator. When it came to the cooler all I had to do was unhook the hoses.

Maybe the SS and the ZL1 are different. I had to remove the alternator because there was a bracket under it that attached to the pan using a stud that had to come loose.
It didn't look like my cooler would clear the CFD flanges with the cooler on, so it was fairly simple to unbolt, buy now needs a gasket. I may try reinstalling with the cooler on the pan.

[Bo White]

Might be. Unfamiliar with ZL1 configuration.

[morepowerjoe]

I have CFD's flanges welded in place. All I had to do was remove the oil cooler and slide the rack n pinion around to get to the other oil pan bolts. I've had my pan off 4 times. Thank you CFD.

[dma05]

I'm reading that the steering rack bolts are TTY, so wouldn't that mean they need to be replaced if I loosen them up to move the steering rack out of the way? I'm trying to get my pan off, but the front doesn't have enough clearance.

[morepowerjoe]

I have removed the rack bolts at least 5 times and re tightened them with no problems. I didn't even know they were torque to yeld. lol. When re tighten them I use a big old breaker bar though.

[FasNuf]

From the 2014 Service Manual.
Sequence, torque and turn. I'm going to buy new.

[Bo White]

Yeah I just put the old bolts back in and reused them.