Power steering help!

[Astatenate]

So I just installed a new forged short block - I am only having one issue after reinstall. Power steering will go out at 100% throttle in 2nd gear. I have gone over grounds, connectors, checked for pinched or exposed wires. Nothing. Any advice? It is only doing it when going full throttle in 2-3 gear.

I’ve attached images of car below to see if anything is missing or not right. I’ll get more pics from below, connectors, etc if needed. Someone help.

[gtstorey]

Have you scanned for codes, especially with a code reader that does more than powertrain. I think steer control module codes report as other than P codes.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

Have you scanned for codes, especially with a code reader that does more than powertrain. I think steer control module codes report as other than P codes.

I have not. I have a buddy with a snap on scan tool. I’m sure it would show something. It’s not thrown any normal codes yet. Or stored any.

[gtstorey]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

I have not. I have a buddy with a snap on scan tool. I’m sure it would show something. It’s not thrown any normal codes yet. Or stored any.

I would start here. I've not messed with the EPS on a Camaro but have some on my kit car that uses a Cobalt drivetrain. I can't think of anything that would cause a gear/rpm issue with the steering control module. I would guess that you have some communication problem with the module. Either it's just by chance that it has shown up while in a certain gear/rpm range or you have a wiring issue that changes as the motor moves around under power. It could be as simple as a loose connection at the fuse box that moves at certain times, it doesn't have to be in the area of the EPS.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

I would start here. I've not messed with the EPS on a Camaro but have some on my kit car that uses a Cobalt drivetrain. I can't think of anything that would cause a gear/rpm issue with the steering control module. I would guess that you have some communication problem with the module. Either it's just by chance that it has shown up while in a certain gear/rpm range or you have a wiring issue that changes as the motor moves around under power. It could be as simple as a loose connection at the fuse box that moves at certain times, it doesn't have to be in the area of the EPS.

10-4. Thanks for the info. We will check into all surrounding components and see if we can find any errors. Could a 66% life battery cause issues? The battery tested as “good” at multiple local auto part stores. But was only reading mid to high 60% on battery healthy. Which idk how 60% anything is healthy. If someone told me my heart was working at 66% but is “good” I’d have mixed emotions. Haha. Also I know the remote start and stabilitrack has issues if voltage drops or battery is weak.

[gtstorey]

My first response is if in doubt, replace the battery. So many weird things happen with bad batteries that it's worth a few hundred bucks to eliminate that as a problem.

[Astatenate]

Find the ZL1 specific post here with lots of information >
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=601816

I’ve replaced battery, alternator (both OEM) , re grounded power steering rack (found below thanks to AGM) grounded straight to frame, installed new drive belt, cleaned wheel speed sensors, nothing. If I go WOT (full throttle) it turns my power steering off and gives me a “service power steering” error on dash. Anyones help is appreciated!!


AGM fix below:
I did a search from andy's post from ADM and this is what I found:

The more I wrap my head around it the more I agree that it is the ground location and size.

The RED 12v+ wire is roughly 6 ga x 32"' long with what appears to be a very robust connector at the power distribution/jump start block mounted to the shock tower on the driver side. The bolt that holds this power lug is 8mm in diameter (same as your starter power inlet bolt) with a 13mm hex outside diameter that can be torqued between 17-29 ft lb give or take. Dam good connection if you ask me.

The BLACK 12v- wire is roughly 6 ga x 48" long with what appears to be a very robust connector at the end that grounds to the side of the car near the Intake. The bolt that grounds it is 6mm in diameter (the diameter of most grounds on the car that ground low current devices like lights, fuel pumps injectors etc.) with a 10mm hex outside diameter and small washer built in flange to aid in surface area.This bolt has a torque rating of 3-12ft lb give or take.

The codes that we are seeing are 90 percent voltage related, I have listed them here -

I have a list of common codes with descriptions:

C0475-00 Power Steering Motor Circuit

C056D-39 Electronic Control Unit Hardware - Internal Malfunction

C056D-3C Electronic Control Unit Hardware - Internal Communication Malfunction

C056D-3B Electronic Control Unit Hardware - Self Test Malfunction

C0800-12 Control Module Power Circuit - Low Input


The math:

6 ga wire 32" long at 125 amps voltage drop is 1.9 percent not factoring in connection point size.

6 ga wire 48" long at 125 amps voltage drop is 3.3 percent not factoring in connection point size.

When electrical current moves through a wire it must surpass a certain level of contrary pressure. If the current is alternating, such pressure is called impedance. Impedance is a vector, or two-dimensional quantity, consisting of resistance and reactance (reaction of a built up electric field to a change of current). If the current is direct, the pressure is called resistance.

All this sounds terribly abstract, but it's really not much different from water running through a garden hose. It takes a certain amount of pressure to push the water through the hose, which is like voltage for electricity. Current is like the water flowing through the hose. And the hose causes a certain level of resistance, depending on its thickness, shape, etc. The same kind of thing is true for wires, as their type and size determines the level of resistance.

Excessive voltage drop in a circuit can cause lights to flicker or burn dimly, heaters to heat poorly, and motors to run hotter than normal and burn out. This condition causes the load to work harder with less voltage pushing the current.

Experts say that voltage drop should never be greater than 3 percent. This is done by selecting the right size of wire, and by taking care in the use of extension cords and similar devices.

The direction I am going with this is very simple - This wire that grounds this power steering rack is to small for its length and load it is expected to carry as well as its connection point size.The wire should have a shorter path to its grounding point,it should have a larger lug that has a higher torque rating and surface area.

It's obvious that the engineers put this part right on the edge of failure yet they made the voltage window it operates within super sensitive to triggering a code and going into limp mode (shut down mode).

For Liability Reasons we will not be offering a fix for this, only raw information of how it works and ideas that can aid in making it better.