Power Steering Issues Help

[Astatenate]

So I just installed a new forged short block - I am only having one issue after reinstall. Power steering will go out at 100% throttle in 2nd gear. I have gone over grounds, connectors, checked for pinched or exposed wires. Nothing. Any advice? It is only doing it when going full throttle in 2-3 gear.

I’ve attached images of car below to see if anything is missing or not right. I’ll get more pics from below, connectors, etc if needed. Someone help.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by natelive

that happened to me once when I changed mine. I suggest to take it to a local mechanic

Buddy of mine is ASE mechanic and his service manager is very smart. They’re who installed engine. No other issues. Only this. So trying to get it right.

[Vicster]

I was going to post my opinion that it is a ground, either on the block or where the steering ground is. Also make sure they are clean, before assembly!

I ran across this post from BigTime53, should help you allot...
I did a search from andy's post from ADM and this is what I found:

The more I wrap my head around it the more I agree that it is the ground location and size.

The RED 12v+ wire is roughly 6 ga x 32"' long with what appears to be a very robust connector at the power distribution/jump start block mounted to the shock tower on the driver side. The bolt that holds this power lug is 8mm in diameter (same as your starter power inlet bolt) with a 13mm hex outside diameter that can be torqued between 17-29 ft lb give or take. Dam good connection if you ask me.

The BLACK 12v- wire is roughly 6 ga x 48" long with what appears to be a very robust connector at the end that grounds to the side of the car near the Intake. The bolt that grounds it is 6mm in diameter (the diameter of most grounds on the car that ground low current devices like lights, fuel pumps injectors etc.) with a 10mm hex outside diameter and small washer built in flange to aid in surface area.This bolt has a torque rating of 3-12ft lb give or take.

The codes that we are seeing are 90 percent voltage related, I have listed them here -

I have a list of common codes with descriptions:

C0475-00 Power Steering Motor Circuit

C056D-39 Electronic Control Unit Hardware - Internal Malfunction

C056D-3C Electronic Control Unit Hardware - Internal Communication Malfunction

C056D-3B Electronic Control Unit Hardware - Self Test Malfunction

C0800-12 Control Module Power Circuit - Low Input


The math:

6 ga wire 32" long at 125 amps voltage drop is 1.9 percent not factoring in connection point size.

6 ga wire 48" long at 125 amps voltage drop is 3.3 percent not factoring in connection point size.

When electrical current moves through a wire it must surpass a certain level of contrary pressure. If the current is alternating, such pressure is called impedance. Impedance is a vector, or two-dimensional quantity, consisting of resistance and reactance (reaction of a built up electric field to a change of current). If the current is direct, the pressure is called resistance.

All this sounds terribly abstract, but it's really not much different from water running through a garden hose. It takes a certain amount of pressure to push the water through the hose, which is like voltage for electricity. Current is like the water flowing through the hose. And the hose causes a certain level of resistance, depending on its thickness, shape, etc. The same kind of thing is true for wires, as their type and size determines the level of resistance.

Excessive voltage drop in a circuit can cause lights to flicker or burn dimly, heaters to heat poorly, and motors to run hotter than normal and burn out. This condition causes the load to work harder with less voltage pushing the current.

Experts say that voltage drop should never be greater than 3 percent. This is done by selecting the right size of wire, and by taking care in the use of extension cords and similar devices.

The direction I am going with this is very simple - This wire that grounds this power steering rack is to small for its length and load it is expected to carry as well as its connection point size.The wire should have a shorter path to its grounding point,it should have a larger lug that has a higher torque rating and surface area.

It's obvious that the engineers put this part right on the edge of failure yet they made the voltage window it operates within super sensitive to triggering a code and going into limp mode (shut down mode).

For Liability Reasons we will not be offering a fix for this, only raw information of how it works and ideas that can aid in making it better.

[Astatenate]

10-4. Thanks for the info. We will check into all surrounding components and see if we can find any errors. I am also not against shortening and finding a better ground for the EPS. I read that same thread above .

Could a 66% life battery cause issues? The battery tested as “good” at multiple local auto part stores. But was only reading mid to high 60% on battery healthy. Which idk how 60% anything is healthy. If someone told me my heart was working at 66% but is “good” I’d have mixed emotions. Haha. Also I know the remote start and stabilitrack has issues if voltage drops or battery is weak.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

10-4. Thanks for the info. We will check into all surrounding components and see if we can find any errors. I am also not against shortening and finding a better ground for the EPS. I read that same thread above .

Could a 66% life battery cause issues? The battery tested as “good” at multiple local auto part stores. But was only reading mid to high 60% on battery healthy. Which idk how 60% anything is healthy. If someone told me my heart was working at 66% but is “good” I’d have mixed emotions. Haha. Also I know the remote start and stabilitrack has issues if voltage drops or battery is weak.

The Z’s have a long list of issues related to a less than healthy battery as long as I have been on the forum. But still thinking it’s a ground issue..

[HDRDTD]

How about temporarily running a cable directly from the rack to the negative terminal just to see if that clears the problem ??

If it does, then it would confirm a grounding problem.?

Just an idea.

[JB'sZL1]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Could a 66% life battery cause issues? The battery tested as “good” at multiple local auto part stores. But was only reading mid to high 60% on battery healthy. Which idk how 60% anything is healthy. If someone told me my heart was working at 66% but is “good” I’d have mixed emotions. Haha. Also I know the remote start and stabilitrack has issues if voltage drops or battery is weak.

The guys at the "local auto parts stores" can't walk and chew gum simultaneously. I write that because I've run into that same statement. "Good" means nothing. Once a 12 volt battery hits 12 volts (or less) it's reliability is severely limited. It can be charged back up, but for how long?

I've purchased new batteries at AA and one was at 11.6 volts (before purchase in the store)...yet was new and unused. The guy behind the counter stated "he'd charge it." I replied "don't bother." To truly test a battery it needs to be tested at it's resting state before any charge is placed to it. Critical thought is at an all time low. "Bad, OK, Good" means nothing with all these electronics placed on vehicles now. Nothing. One needs a good steady current at all times.

I don't know if this is your problem, but I would eliminate this (battery condition) first, as well as all grounds and connections.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by HDRDTD

How about temporarily running a cable directly from the rack to the negative terminal just to see if that clears the problem ??

If it does, then it would confirm a grounding problem.?

Just an idea.

I’m not against that. I’ll see when I can knock it out. Rather swap the battery first and see if that fixes issue.

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

The guys at the "local auto parts stores" can't walk and chew gum simultaneously. I write that because I've run into that same statement. "Good" means nothing. Once a 12 volt battery hits 12 volts (or less) it's reliability is severely limited. It can be charged back up, but for how long?

I've purchased new batteries at AA and one was at 11.6 volts (before purchase in the store)...yet was new and unused. The guy behind the counter stated "he'd charge it." I replied "don't bother." To truly test a battery it needs to be tested at it's resting state before any charge is placed to it. Critical thought is at an all time low. "Bad, OK, Good" means nothing with all these electronics placed on vehicles now. Nothing. One needs a good steady current at all times.

I don't know if this is your problem, but I would eliminate this (battery condition) first, as well as all grounds and connections.

Hahaha love it!! And yeah that’s why I took it to 3 different ones. Finally had the dealership check. It all checked as “good” but like you stated. That doesn’t mean it’s good to go. I kinda figured the same. Was going to test it with my ohm reader itself at standstill while cold. And see what it’s charge is at. And report back. If too low I’ll get a new one Monday.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

"Good" means nothing. Once a 12 volt battery hits 12 volts (or less) it's reliability is severely limited. It can be charged back up, but for how long?

So the battery at a standstill (Non running) is 12.4v

[JB'sZL1]

You're on the edge at 12.4. Below that it will require replacement. Keep checking it and see if it approaches 12.1 and it then requires replacement. Fully charged on the charger it should hit 13.6 or 13.7. That would be the final test of the battery. I would keep watching it's voltage, because if it continues to drain and approach 12.0 or 12.1...it's shot.

Chasing electrical issues can be a menacing matter if you don't know what you're doing, or are not methodical. That's why I say to first check battery, then all grounds and contacts and go from there. Those are the simplest things to check. Aside, of course, from any electrical components or work that was just done.

[Bigtime53]

Just a point to make if it makes a difference [it does to me] I always get the most cold cranking amp battery I can get. I like 850 to 900 cold cranking amps and doing that I have not had anymore trouble with battery issues. OP I hope you get your issue with the EPS fixed and if you would let us now what you did to get that done. Good luck.

[JB'sZL1]

JFYI: I picked up a Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM 800CCA BCI Group 94R on sale for $191 + tax 2 months ago. I have yet to try it out being in the snow district, but it should do well being an agm.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

JFYI: I picked up a Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM 800CCA BCI Group 94R on sale for $191 + tax 2 months ago. I have yet to try it out being in the snow district, but it should do well being an agm.

Still on original battery date stamped Nov 2012, CTEK is your friend although I have to add water to the cells annually. Probably will cut it loose this year, as I think I got my monies worth..

[JB'sZL1]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

Still on original battery date stamped Nov 2012, CTEK is your friend although I have to add water to the cells annually. Probably will cut it loose this year, as I think I got my monies worth..

Ya think?

Especially since you've outlasted the only available oem batteries that cost $425 just a few years ago.