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Old 02-11-2022, 08:55 PM   #1
joshnmn
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Prepping for tear down - lifter failure

Sounds like I have a lifter that went south I'm putting together a list of parts needed, including the required parts for a cam swap. The existing thread here is really helpful (thanks Blake for linking that). From that thread I see these are required:

Parts
- New 3 bolt camshaft
- Double Valve Springs
- Titanium Spring Retainers
- Spring Seats
- Valve Stem Seals
- Hardened Pushrods
- Front Timing Cover Gasket: GM Part# 12633904
- Front Timing Cover Main Seal: GM Part# 12585673
- two water pump gaskets: GM Part# 12630223
- New crank bolt

Tools
- Metric shallow and deep sockets in 1/2" and 3/8" ranging from 8mm to 15mm will cover you as well as a 24mm 1/2" for the crank bolt
- 3/8" and 1/2" Torque wrenches
- 1/2" breaker bar
- 10mm flex ratchet wrench
- 40 Torx bit
- harmonic balancer puller tool (got the OEM/Chrysler loaner from Autozone)
- harmonic balancer installer (if you can't find a longer crank bolt or some M16 threaded rod)
- Valve Spring Compressor tool

I'm going to pull the whole thing and heads are coming off, so I also have head studs/ LS9 gaskets. Just looking to see if I'm missing something or if y'all want to share any scars.
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Old 02-11-2022, 09:16 PM   #2
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Sorry to hear about your troubles, man. On the bright side, great excuse to upgrade you cam, lifters, etc., and maybe get the heads ported while you're at it.



Good luck.
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Old 02-11-2022, 09:34 PM   #3
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Timing chain tensioner the oe ls3 ones come apart.


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Old 02-11-2022, 11:34 PM   #4
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There's not much stock in there other than the bottom end. Got both of those done already, but thanks for looking out.
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Old 02-11-2022, 11:41 PM   #5
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Assuming this is a manual and not sure what your end game is but....

Your gonna need a flywheel lock got mine on Amazon for 20-30 bucks.

If I were you I would send the heads off for a professional valvejob and get them ported while they are off, the will install your springs also. Lots of HP hidden in there.

I would replace cam retainer plate.

Oil pump is going to have to come off so I would replace that with a HP Melling oil pump.

Timing chain is coming off I would replace that also.

If you don't have a set of ratcheting wrenches your gonna want those to help get the oil pump off they help in other hard to reach places.

Small air compressor to blow the fluids out of the bolt holes after taking heads off and a set of wire pipe cleaners that attach to a drill. If this is not done you will likely bust a head bolt or run in to a leaking head gasket down the road....or worse.

You can rent the torque wrenches from O'Reilly your gonna want a 1/4, 3/8 and half. I always rent the 1/2 from O'Reilly it's about 200-300 to buy and you only use it on the balancer. The other 2 are handy to have around.

Puller/installer you can rent from any autoparts store.

If you don't have a manual the online version http://www.alldatadiy.com is pretty good.


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Old 02-11-2022, 11:46 PM   #6
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Also this video is pretty awsome for a quick walk through.

https://youtu.be/clovrv1NOR8

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Old 02-12-2022, 06:49 PM   #7
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I wouldn't forget the trunnions.
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Old 02-12-2022, 09:59 PM   #8
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Already done

I was looking for any tips/tricks from peeps that have done this and looked up and had to order a gasket here or a tool there. That kind of thing. My car is already pretty well equipped.
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Old 02-15-2022, 12:49 PM   #9
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That sucks man. You going with regular lifters and trays again, or thinking about doing link bar style?

If I could give any advice, just tear it down slowly and take lots of pics of each step. I would want to know exactly what failed and why so it doesn't happen again.
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Old 02-15-2022, 01:45 PM   #10
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Cam sprocket bolts?
ARP 134-1003


Brake cleaner if you don't already have some.
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Old 02-15-2022, 08:45 PM   #11
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Cam sprocket bolts I didn't have. Thank you

Definitely brake cleaner
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Old 07-19-2022, 01:27 PM   #12
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Got it all buttoned up and fired up over the weekend

I wanted to add things in here for anyone else searching later on:

For a manual car the directions in the link above might work, but for an auto you will need some way to keep the engine from turning when removing/ installing the crank pulley. I got one of the many LS locking tool versions available for cheap (got mine off eBay).

Also, when re-installing the crank pulley, don't bother with the "threaded rod" in the link and definitely don't waste your time trying to use a rental from the local parts place. Just pickup a LS7/9 crank bolt. It's about an inch longer than the LS3 bolt and makes reinstallation a breeze. Just remove the LS7 bolt when it bottoms out and torque down the pulley with your old bolt. Piece of cake

Although it is in the link, I was stubborn and didn't order it ahead of time, but the pushrod length checker tool is very cool. It's only $35 and I built enough points from GPI on my original order that made this free. Instead of trying all the different techniques available on the internet, just get the checker, set 0 lash and see what you need. Turns out I didn't need to order new pushrods, but I got to figure that out for $35 instead of buying a wrong length set.

I went with the GPI SS4 turbo cam, Johnson 2110 lifters, LS9 head gaskets, Melling 10355 oil pump, and ARP head studs. Dyno day in 2 weeks!
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Old 07-19-2022, 01:41 PM   #13
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Cool buddy. I'm in the process of rebuilding mine now, but can't find a machinist to save my life that isn't 4-5 weeks out.
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Old 07-19-2022, 07:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshnmn View Post
Got it all buttoned up and fired up over the weekend

I wanted to add things in here for anyone else searching later on:

For a manual car the directions in the link above might work, but for an auto you will need some way to keep the engine from turning when removing/ installing the crank pulley. I got one of the many LS locking tool versions available for cheap (got mine off eBay).

Also, when re-installing the crank pulley, don't bother with the "threaded rod" in the link and definitely don't waste your time trying to use a rental from the local parts place. Just pickup a LS7/9 crank bolt. It's about an inch longer than the LS3 bolt and makes reinstallation a breeze. Just remove the LS7 bolt when it bottoms out and torque down the pulley with your old bolt. Piece of cake

Although it is in the link, I was stubborn and didn't order it ahead of time, but the pushrod length checker tool is very cool. It's only $35 and I built enough points from GPI on my original order that made this free. Instead of trying all the different techniques available on the internet, just get the checker, set 0 lash and see what you need. Turns out I didn't need to order new pushrods, but I got to figure that out for $35 instead of buying a wrong length set.

I went with the GPI SS4 turbo cam, Johnson 2110 lifters, LS9 head gaskets, Melling 10355 oil pump, and ARP head studs. Dyno day in 2 weeks!
EXCELLENT SIR!!
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