Completely Dead (Electrically) 2014 SS - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Ayuir · 05-07-2022, 11:42 PM

I have a 2014 22/RS that is completely dead electrically. No modifications to electronics or the engine. Daily driver (up until Covid) so sitting at around 105k miles.

Lately have been driving it perhaps every week or two; when driven typically put at least 50mi on it. Never any issues with being slow to start. Literally started and run like it did in 2014.
2 weeks ago, after not driving for about a week, I tried to unlock the doors with the key fob and it didn't work. Found out it was completely dead; no locks, no dash, no little red flashing light on top of the dash, couldn't unlock the trunk. Nothing.
Today I pulled the battery. Tested at 1.2V (dead, dead, dead). Put a (old) battery in that was tested at 12.6V. Still nothing on the dash or anything. Checked the grounding strap in the trunk, all tight. Checked all the fuzes in the trunk and under the hood and all are still good. After putting the battery in I got no beeps or tones, no lights, the car still acted as if there were no battery in it.
I looked under, in, and around for evidence of possible mouse/rat infestation and found none.
Apparently the battery I put in it to test is weak (still has 12+V but had difficulty turning over another vehicle) so I'll try another one just in case. I still think it's not the battery as even if it couldn't push enough amps to crank it still should have turned everything else on.'

Thoughts?

I'm hoping to avoid taking it in as electronic issues are notoriously expensive but need to get it running.

102SS · 05-08-2022, 08:19 AM

These things are very sensitive to battery voltage.

Your 9 year old battery needs to be replaced.

I had a hard time getting mine up and running after the battery died after sitting under 3 feet of snow for a month and a half

At one point it thought I was trying to steal it

The worst part is I had replaced the still functioning original battery with a brand new one the previous spring.

The original never let me down but it was 12 years old and I figured I was on borrowed time.

bsn · 05-08-2022, 09:30 AM

If you are completely dead-no lights ECT you have an open circuit or dead short. With a fresh battery and cables connected use a volt meter check voltage from each post to body ground. The positive should show the full voltage of the battery if its less or zero, its an open circuit in the negative (ground circuit maybe trunk connection). If you show full voltage move to the positive on your starter, alternator, fuse box, accessories ECT-any drop in voltage indicates a problem in that circuit. A voltage check of the negative side of the battery should show zero volts-any voltage indicates an open ground. With ignition on and some accessories like a fan on high measure voltage from a clean spot on the block to a clean spot on the body-should be zero volts any voltage indicates a bad connection between the two.

Ayuir · 05-08-2022, 04:41 PM

Thanks both of you.
I'm planning on replacing the battery in the next day or so anyway (it's old and in need, and 1.5V is just it's way of saying so). After that I guess it's time to start chasing circuits.
Interesting that something dies while it was sitting still...part of why I was looking for a rats nest. But, things break.

camguynj · 05-08-2022, 06:40 PM

Couple of thoughts: Check the engine ground (see pic in post 64 in this thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...Pigtail&page=5)
Remove the trunk ground screw and check for rust as it’s exposed to road surface.

05-07-2022, 11:42 PM	#1
Ayuir Army EOD Tech Drives: 2014 BRM 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Washington Posts: 67 View My Garage	Completely Dead (Electrically) 2014 SS I have a 2014 22/RS that is completely dead electrically. No modifications to electronics or the engine. Daily driver (up until Covid) so sitting at around 105k miles. Lately have been driving it perhaps every week or two; when driven typically put at least 50mi on it. Never any issues with being slow to start. Literally started and run like it did in 2014. 2 weeks ago, after not driving for about a week, I tried to unlock the doors with the key fob and it didn't work. Found out it was completely dead; no locks, no dash, no little red flashing light on top of the dash, couldn't unlock the trunk. Nothing. Today I pulled the battery. Tested at 1.2V (dead, dead, dead). Put a (old) battery in that was tested at 12.6V. Still nothing on the dash or anything. Checked the grounding strap in the trunk, all tight. Checked all the fuzes in the trunk and under the hood and all are still good. After putting the battery in I got no beeps or tones, no lights, the car still acted as if there were no battery in it. I looked under, in, and around for evidence of possible mouse/rat infestation and found none. Apparently the battery I put in it to test is weak (still has 12+V but had difficulty turning over another vehicle) so I'll try another one just in case. I still think it's not the battery as even if it couldn't push enough amps to crank it still should have turned everything else on.' Thoughts? I'm hoping to avoid taking it in as electronic issues are notoriously expensive but need to get it running.

05-08-2022, 08:19 AM	#2
102SS waiting at the tree Drives: SIM 2010 2SS/RS A6 Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Niagara Falls Posts: 4,423	These things are very sensitive to battery voltage. Your 9 year old battery needs to be replaced. I had a hard time getting mine up and running after the battery died after sitting under 3 feet of snow for a month and a half At one point it thought I was trying to steal it The worst part is I had replaced the still functioning original battery with a brand new one the previous spring. The original never let me down but it was 12 years old and I figured I was on borrowed time. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS A6 Just a few bolt-ons and appearance doo dads

05-08-2022, 09:30 AM	#3
bsn Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: Virginia Posts: 469	If you are completely dead-no lights ECT you have an open circuit or dead short. With a fresh battery and cables connected use a volt meter check voltage from each post to body ground. The positive should show the full voltage of the battery if its less or zero, its an open circuit in the negative (ground circuit maybe trunk connection). If you show full voltage move to the positive on your starter, alternator, fuse box, accessories ECT-any drop in voltage indicates a problem in that circuit. A voltage check of the negative side of the battery should show zero volts-any voltage indicates an open ground. With ignition on and some accessories like a fan on high measure voltage from a clean spot on the block to a clean spot on the body-should be zero volts any voltage indicates a bad connection between the two.

05-08-2022, 04:41 PM	#4
Ayuir Army EOD Tech Drives: 2014 BRM 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Washington Posts: 67 View My Garage	Thanks both of you. I'm planning on replacing the battery in the next day or so anyway (it's old and in need, and 1.5V is just it's way of saying so). After that I guess it's time to start chasing circuits. Interesting that something dies while it was sitting still...part of why I was looking for a rats nest. But, things break.

05-08-2022, 06:40 PM	#5
camguynj Drives: '13 SS/RS LS3 BRM Cammed NPP Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: NJ Posts: 3,856 View My Garage	Couple of thoughts: Check the engine ground (see pic in post 64 in this thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...Pigtail&page=5) Remove the trunk ground screw and check for rust as it’s exposed to road surface.