10-26-2022, 07:00 AM | #71 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Convertible A6 BRM Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Dayton Ohio Area
Posts: 499
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If there was an issue with the cam sensor, wouldn't there be a check engine light on or a stored code to read? Seems like just randomly replacing parts is not the best way to go about it. I don't see how the grounds could be weak (now), as I have added 4 extra ones.
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2013 ZL1 CONVERTIBLE BRM A6
OHIO |
10-26-2022, 07:10 AM | #72 |
Drives: 2014 2SS/RS 6SP Ashen Grey Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: NY
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I would think there would be a code unless it happens only has an issue only while cranking and then maybe not ( I am not sure of this ) Could it be a security issue? Is there fuel pressure while the issue is happening? I'd hate to just throw parts at it, A good dealer or shop maybe in order here.
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10-26-2022, 07:30 AM | #73 |
Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
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So I didn't read all of the posts but have you looked at the fuel pressure?
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10-26-2022, 07:58 AM | #74 | ||
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
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Quote:
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2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. |
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10-26-2022, 08:39 AM | #75 | |
Drives: 13 CAMARO 2SS LS3-04 SILVERADO LS3 Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: SOUTHERN MARYLAND
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10-26-2022, 02:24 PM | #76 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Convertible A6 BRM Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Dayton Ohio Area
Posts: 499
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I have a very basic ($30) scanner. It says fuel pressure is running around 52 psi. If it is an immobilizer issue, what then?
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2013 ZL1 CONVERTIBLE BRM A6
OHIO Last edited by 2013ZL1FUN; 10-26-2022 at 02:25 PM. Reason: new comment |
10-26-2022, 02:43 PM | #77 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Convertible A6 BRM Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Dayton Ohio Area
Posts: 499
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The starting issue comes and goes but seems to be worse when the car is warm or hot as opposed to a cold start.
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2013 ZL1 CONVERTIBLE BRM A6
OHIO |
10-26-2022, 03:28 PM | #78 |
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Location: Streets of Philly
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I had a similar issue was insanely annoying. Not sure it's the exact issue as I didn't read the whole thread. But we replaced so many things:
1) Batter 2) pos/neg cable that runs from battery to engine 3) starter relay 4) starter 5) ECM 6) fuse box NONE of that fixed the problem. What fixed it was pretty simple and others have mentioned it on here. Issue was fixed by adding another ground from the starter to the engine. Not a single issue after that. My car was cranking very slow during hot starts and making a clicking noise before cranking and sometimes it wouldn't even crank at all, I would have to push start it. And half the time it would start normally.
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10-27-2022, 05:59 AM | #79 |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
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That very likely does not do much more than read codes. The one I am thinking about getting is the FOXWELL NT624. It's not pro level and it's made in China, but for someone who only uses it a few times a year, it should do the job. One problem is you would have to keep it handy for when the failure occurs.
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2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. |
10-27-2022, 06:46 AM | #80 |
Drives: 13 CAMARO 2SS LS3-04 SILVERADO LS3 Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: SOUTHERN MARYLAND
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Damn, a $30 scanner that reads live data? That's pretty good! I get that most everyone on this forum likes to tackle issues themselves, and if I were not in the business I'd probably be the same way. Sometimes it's just not possible. With your limited diagnostic equipment and information, I don't even know where to start advising you. I only suggested immobilizer because it's often overlooked. Try this, each time you start the car, before cranking turn the key to run and watch the security indicator. It should come on briefly then go out. If it does that and the car doesn't start then it's not a immobilizer problem.
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10-27-2022, 06:49 AM | #81 |
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Instead of buying a costly scanner just to diagnose IF it’s an immobilizer issue just get a good one from Amazon. Keep it plugged in the obd2 port and you’ll be able to read it when you get the problem. Then just return it. If it was me I would do this before replacing the cam sensor.
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10-27-2022, 07:16 AM | #82 | |
Drives: 13 CAMARO 2SS LS3-04 SILVERADO LS3 Join Date: Dec 2021
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10-27-2022, 08:15 AM | #83 |
Drives: 2013 SS/RS, 2015 Camaro SS/RS Vert Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Southern Nevada
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At the risk of sidetracking here, but the cheap little OBD code readers have come a long ways. I paid $22 for mine and it does live scanning as well as a number of other things besides just read codes.
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10-27-2022, 08:31 AM | #84 |
Drives: 13 CAMARO 2SS LS3-04 SILVERADO LS3 Join Date: Dec 2021
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The one I use for work was $1300 and it's not even a scan tool just a interface between the car and my pc! The actual scan tool is part of GM global connect. I did buy a "cheap" tool from Harbor Freight to use at home that does quite a bit but even that was $130 and doesn't do body or tire pressure monitoring. $22 is crazy, but probably all a typical owner would need.
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