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Old 10-26-2022, 07:00 AM   #71
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If there was an issue with the cam sensor, wouldn't there be a check engine light on or a stored code to read? Seems like just randomly replacing parts is not the best way to go about it. I don't see how the grounds could be weak (now), as I have added 4 extra ones.
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Old 10-26-2022, 07:10 AM   #72
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I would think there would be a code unless it happens only has an issue only while cranking and then maybe not ( I am not sure of this ) Could it be a security issue? Is there fuel pressure while the issue is happening? I'd hate to just throw parts at it, A good dealer or shop maybe in order here.
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Old 10-26-2022, 07:30 AM   #73
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So I didn't read all of the posts but have you looked at the fuel pressure?

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Old 10-26-2022, 07:58 AM   #74
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Where is the cam sensor located? If this is something easy to replace I may just try and do that.
It's on the front timing cover. You can probably get the best view from underneath, but that might just be because my downpipe is in the way.

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If there was an issue with the cam sensor, wouldn't there be a check engine light on or a stored code to read? Seems like just randomly replacing parts is not the best way to go about it. I don't see how the grounds could be weak (now), as I have added 4 extra ones.
I'm not saying just throw a new cam sensor in it, but if the car turns over, it's not a battery issue. What you really need is a good scanner to tell you what the sensors are reading when you try to start it. I believe it only sets a code after three consecutive failed reads of the cam sensor and then it changes how it fires the plugs so it can run without it, albeit crapily.
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Old 10-26-2022, 08:39 AM   #75
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It's on the front timing cover. You can probably get the best view from underneath, but that might just be because my downpipe is in the way.



I'm not saying just throw a new cam sensor in it, but if the car turns over, it's not a battery issue. What you really need is a good scanner to tell you what the sensors are reading when you try to start it. I believe it only sets a code after three consecutive failed reads of the cam sensor and then it changes how it fires the plugs so it can run without it, albeit crapily.
A good scanner will also read B codes which is what it's going to set if it's a immobilizer issue. If he has no scanner use a spark tester and see if it has spark when cranking. If it has spark then it's not the cam sensor or a immobilizer problem.
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Old 10-26-2022, 02:24 PM   #76
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I have a very basic ($30) scanner. It says fuel pressure is running around 52 psi. If it is an immobilizer issue, what then?
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Old 10-26-2022, 02:43 PM   #77
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The starting issue comes and goes but seems to be worse when the car is warm or hot as opposed to a cold start.
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Old 10-26-2022, 03:28 PM   #78
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I had a similar issue was insanely annoying. Not sure it's the exact issue as I didn't read the whole thread. But we replaced so many things:
1) Batter
2) pos/neg cable that runs from battery to engine
3) starter relay
4) starter
5) ECM
6) fuse box

NONE of that fixed the problem. What fixed it was pretty simple and others have mentioned it on here. Issue was fixed by adding another ground from the starter to the engine. Not a single issue after that.

My car was cranking very slow during hot starts and making a clicking noise before cranking and sometimes it wouldn't even crank at all, I would have to push start it. And half the time it would start normally.
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Old 10-27-2022, 05:59 AM   #79
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I have a very basic ($30) scanner. It says fuel pressure is running around 52 psi. If it is an immobilizer issue, what then?
That very likely does not do much more than read codes. The one I am thinking about getting is the FOXWELL NT624. It's not pro level and it's made in China, but for someone who only uses it a few times a year, it should do the job. One problem is you would have to keep it handy for when the failure occurs.
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Old 10-27-2022, 06:46 AM   #80
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I have a very basic ($30) scanner. It says fuel pressure is running around 52 psi. If it is an immobilizer issue, what then?
Damn, a $30 scanner that reads live data? That's pretty good! I get that most everyone on this forum likes to tackle issues themselves, and if I were not in the business I'd probably be the same way. Sometimes it's just not possible. With your limited diagnostic equipment and information, I don't even know where to start advising you. I only suggested immobilizer because it's often overlooked. Try this, each time you start the car, before cranking turn the key to run and watch the security indicator. It should come on briefly then go out. If it does that and the car doesn't start then it's not a immobilizer problem.
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Old 10-27-2022, 06:49 AM   #81
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Instead of buying a costly scanner just to diagnose IF it’s an immobilizer issue just get a good one from Amazon. Keep it plugged in the obd2 port and you’ll be able to read it when you get the problem. Then just return it. If it was me I would do this before replacing the cam sensor.
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Old 10-27-2022, 07:16 AM   #82
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Instead of buying a costly scanner just to diagnose IF it’s an immobilizer issue just get a good one from Amazon. Keep it plugged in the obd2 port and you’ll be able to read it when you get the problem. Then just return it. If it was me I would do this before replacing the cam sensor.
All he has to do is watch the security light to determine if it's a immobilizer problem. Also, if his $30 scanner can read fuel pressure, then it should have a parameter for the cam sensor.
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Old 10-27-2022, 08:15 AM   #83
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All he has to do is watch the security light to determine if it's a immobilizer problem. Also, if his $30 scanner can read fuel pressure, then it should have a parameter for the cam sensor.
At the risk of sidetracking here, but the cheap little OBD code readers have come a long ways. I paid $22 for mine and it does live scanning as well as a number of other things besides just read codes.
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Old 10-27-2022, 08:31 AM   #84
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At the risk of sidetracking here, but the cheap little OBD code readers have come a long ways. I paid $22 for mine and it does live scanning as well as a number of other things besides just read codes.
The one I use for work was $1300 and it's not even a scan tool just a interface between the car and my pc! The actual scan tool is part of GM global connect. I did buy a "cheap" tool from Harbor Freight to use at home that does quite a bit but even that was $130 and doesn't do body or tire pressure monitoring. $22 is crazy, but probably all a typical owner would need.
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