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Old 05-04-2023, 07:15 PM   #15
Fiilthyy
 
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Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
Might should have already asked, but is the U code coming back after cleared or just left over from pulling the ECM for tuning.
So we clear the code but as soon as it’s cleared it comes right back on like within a second or 2. The mechanic said it could be that pin not making the TCM talk back to the ecm and it’s not reading that it’s in park so the car won’t turn on, but I’m not quite sure about that it’s really stressful.

I will get that pin fixed and hopefully it’s just that but I really do doubt it, I’m not really familiar with the electrical side of things lol.
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Old 05-04-2023, 07:37 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
Might should have already asked, but is the U code coming back after cleared or just left over from pulling the ECM for tuning.
Sorry I read it wrong , so the car turned on before any modifications were done I started up the car before taking it all apart to see if it had any issues. The main reason I was taking it all apart was to replace the torque converter but since I had to take the transmission out I ordered a cam kit while I was at it and just yanked the whole thing together. For me it would be easier the engine out the car to remove heads etc etc I mean the car was going to sit for another month cause I didn’t have time to work on it a lot.

No codes before only for my long tube headers which were the o2 sensors. I didn’t want to start up the car with no base map because I didn’t know if it could potentially damage anything since I had removed DOD/AFM and VVT.
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Old 05-04-2023, 08:04 PM   #17
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Here is a youtube link. If you have a meter I would verify the integrity of your can bus & get that out of the equation. If this checks out then you have to find what module is bringing the network down.

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Old 05-04-2023, 08:38 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by acutron42 View Post
Here is the U0100 code info. From what I have read the #2 pin might not be used & would probably set a P code anyway.
If you dig there are additional U0100 codes.
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Old 05-04-2023, 09:14 PM   #19
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The best I can tell from the picture of the broken pin, that is actually pin 14 which is the data wire coming from the ECM. I have to mirror the image since the manual pictures the other side of the connector but I think I figured it out. If I’m right then that should be your problem.
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Old 05-04-2023, 09:16 PM   #20
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Yeah I saw that too. Need the byte code.
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Old 05-04-2023, 09:18 PM   #21
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Pin 14 would paint a totally different picture.
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Old 05-04-2023, 09:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
The best I can tell from the picture of the broken pin, that is actually pin 14 which is the data wire coming from the ECM. I have to mirror the image since the manual pictures the other side of the connector but I think I figured it out. If I’m right then that should be your problem.
I found another picture before it had fully broken off, we literally moved it a bit and it just fell off it was on its last leg lol. It says #2 let me show you
Picture:
https://ibb.co/DMDKr7c

Also is there anyway of me getting that pin soldered back on or redone with someone? Or will I need a whole new unit? And if I do need a whole new unit due to it not being able to be saved where could I find a new tehcm?

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Old 05-04-2023, 10:21 PM   #23
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What color wire is on the harness going to pin 2. If is bk/wt it is a ground for circuit 451.
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Old 05-05-2023, 01:59 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by acutron42 View Post
What color wire is on the harness going to pin 2. If is bk/wt it is a ground for circuit 451.
I’ll check tomorrow once I go to the shop 🥳
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Old 05-05-2023, 10:44 AM   #25
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I don’t know that the numbers stamped inside the connector necessarily match the wiring diagrams in the manual. In the first picture of the connector that was posted, it has an alignment mark that has to be lined up to check the PIN number on the harness side.

I agree that the wiring color needs to be checked.

You are not going to have any luck trying to reattach the pin. Maybe a slight chance it can be repinned with the harness removed from the transmission.
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Old 05-05-2023, 11:19 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiilthyy View Post
I found another picture before it had fully broken off, we literally moved it a bit and it just fell off it was on its last leg lol. It says #2 let me show you
Picture:
https://ibb.co/DMDKr7c

Also is there anyway of me getting that pin soldered back on or redone with someone? Or will I need a whole new unit? And if I do need a whole new unit due to it not being able to be saved where could I find a new tehcm?
Maybe check with these folks. I had to rebuild my pressure switches in my tehcm, and got the kit from them.They might offer the parts you need, or would know who would if you need to replace the pigtail. Good luck.

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...m-applications
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Old 05-05-2023, 11:40 AM   #27
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I'm not 100% sure on how the data transmission works, but if it is pin 14 from the end connector view I posted, you might be able to spice the wire from 14 into the wire from pin 10. I THINK it would still allow everything to talk on the network.
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Old 05-05-2023, 11:50 AM   #28
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Here is the 16 pin socket & connector. When I click on the tcm this is what lights up. I wonder if your B+ circuit is broken because of this pin.
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2013 2SS GPI built & tuned 415, spec'd by Andrew Cammer. GPI ported intake/tb/heads, Tooley springs, CHE trunnions, Callies rotating assembly, Diamond pistons, GPI SS3 VVT, ATI 10% ud damper, Circle D 3800, Kooks ceramic coated lt's with green cats, Mishimoto rad & oil cooler, Derale trans cooler, Holley efi rails. DSS driveshaft, trutrac with 3.91's, G-Force renegades, Hendrix solid cradle bushings Bmr: poly diff bushings, Strange adjustable coilovers, sub frame connectors, ZL1 npps, controlled with a vac pump & mac boost control solenoid.
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