Whipple 2.9L belt snap while driving, fixed but other issues have started since.

[2SSHADOWLSX]

So I was doing a pass in the left lane and my serpentine belt snapped when I was slowing down, taking out my MAF wires with it. Car over heated a bit before i could pull over so I also changed the oil. I fixed the wires with crimps and insulated them with electrical tape for now and replaced the belt with a Gates RPM belt. Now that I'm driving it again for the first time since, the car runs a bit rough, shifts very rough and backfires almost every shift, and for some reason it's now hard to get into reverse. Any advice anyone has to help me resolve my issue? I have yet to run it with a code scanner, plan on doing it this week. Have a feeling it might be partially because my wires are fixed with crimps, but I do plan on rewiring them properly in thr near future.

[2SSHADOWLSX]

Update, redid the crimps with heat shrink. Problems did not go away, car still runs poorly, AFR is off and still locked out of reverse. I also tried hard resetting the car by disconnecting the battery for a half hour but no improvement. Open to suggestions.

[oldman14ss]

when it ripped your wires out you might want to check where it goes into your maf for proper connection and seating in device check wires in the connector. chase the wires back into the loom for tightness they just broke at the weakest point. feel along the wire to see if strands broke inside the insulation.

[2SSHADOWLSX]

So update, I changed my MAF sensor fuse because it was blown from the whole ordeal. It fixed all of my current issues, or so it seems. I still have two concerning codes, those being P219A (Bank 1 Air Fuel ratio imbalance), and P0102 (Mass Air Flow Sensor A circuit low). Any tips on getting them gone?

[gtstorey]

What do you mean you redid the crimps with heat shrink? Did you at least change over to butt connectors before heat shrink? You obviously have an electrical issue on the MAF with the P0102 code. You need to find the service manual repair steps for that code, if you made a proper repair of the breaks.

For me, a proper repair would involve soldier but a lot of people would say a proper butt splice would be better.

[2SSHADOWLSX]

I used a butt splice this time, the crimps were just a temporary solution so I could have it running to diagnose other issues. Also got new conduit so now it's somewhat difficult to tell its ever been touched.

[gtstorey]

Not sure where you got to calling your original repair crimps but those are actually spade connectors. I assume you used "crimp" style butt connectors? You likely still have a problem with this repair since your maf code can be caused by low voltage signal from the maf.

[2SSHADOWLSX]

Do you think that butt connectors can really have thay much of an effect on it?

[gtstorey]

It depends on how well you butt spliced it. If you used cheap splices that contain "low temp" solder then definitely could be the issue. Good crimp style butt splices with a good crimp tool not as likely but still possible. Properly soldered connection is the best, although some will argue that more likely to break again if put under strain. The sensor wires are relatively low voltage and are sensitive to improper wiring.

It could be that post #3 is correct or you have damage inside the insulation of a wire that you can't see. Without going through some proper diagnostic steps, I can only guess. But the MAF code could be cause be caused by wiring issue and considering the recent issue, that is the most likely one.

[Risingson05]

I really like these with heat shrink ,provides a really good secure connection .
Plus , it’s a lot cleaner looking fix as it’s not so bulky looking where you end up with a birds nest

[gtstorey]

Originally Posted by Risingson05

I really like these with heat shrink ,provides a really good secure connection .
Plus , it’s a lot cleaner looking fix as it’s not so bulky looking where you end up with a birds nest

Yeah, those are pretty good if you have the tools to do it right. For sensor signals, I would probably add solder to that, just to prevent corrosion from ever having a chance. But it probably would be overkill.

Of course, a lot of people would just take insulated butt splices and squeeze them with pliers. That's what really gets you in trouble.

[Risingson05]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

Yeah, those are pretty good if you have the tools to do it right. For sensor signals, I would probably add solder to that, just to prevent corrosion from ever having a chance. But it probably would be overkill.

Of course, a lot of people would just take insulated butt splices and squeeze them with pliers. That's what really gets you in trouble.

I trust Solder aswell . Agree with you about butt connectors .

[2SSHADOWLSX]

So I got it to work, ended up doing away with the big spade connectors and did little butt splices with heat shrink and covered them in conduit. The real problem wasn't the wiring, it was my MAF fuse that blew causing a ton of problems, and the vaccum hose being lose. Everything is back in one pice and looks clean under the hood.