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#15 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2014 Camaro SS 1Le Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: IL
Posts: 1,706
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2014 SS 1LE Money Pit/ Forged 402
CAM 22X/24X, .619/.617, 113 LSA/ LS9 Heads FIC 1200cc/DSX Aux Pump//McLeod RXT Clutch 730whp: 630Trq |
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#16 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2014 Camaro SS 1Le Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: IL
Posts: 1,706
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Having been in a smoke show, it's awesome during, but not after the fact. Lol went from 0 to EXPENSIVE real quick.
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2014 SS 1LE Money Pit/ Forged 402
CAM 22X/24X, .619/.617, 113 LSA/ LS9 Heads FIC 1200cc/DSX Aux Pump//McLeod RXT Clutch 730whp: 630Trq |
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#17 |
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WOW! 60K for an engine.
Look at what 40-50K will get you at Late Model Engines https://latemodelengines.com/all-cat...ne-builds.html . . . .
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#18 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS 1994 Z/28 Convertible Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: NC
Posts: 84
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+1 A man needs to know his limitations, I am not a mechanic, never wanted to be one. Have a great friend who does all my wrench work, it's what he does for a living. Don't mind paying him for his work, I know it's done right, and there has never been a problem with his work. |
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#19 |
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Big Crow
Drives: '13 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
Posts: 1,551
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Hp is one thing. Reliable Hp is a different and more important topic.
If you own a V6 Camaro and want more than 10 hp improvement better just buy a V8 SS. If you have a V8 SS and look for more than 150hp I'd suggest just getting a ZL1. It's not just hp and $ it costs it is a reliable drivetrain and everything works without needing new valvesprings each year. Resale or retained value is something to consider too. Even if you say I'll never sell it I just got off the phone with insurance who is scrapping my daily driver (not Camaro) due to someone ramming me as I drove straight down the street. They are just going to give u X value and good luck if it's worth more. If you want many hundreds of hp more than is safe to upgrade a ZL1 its better to just build or buy a race car. They are past reliability in the engine and drivetrain at eg 1000 wheel hp. I don't know if there is a concensus of max reliable hp on a ZL1, I think people have said between 700-850whp. Edit; and I don't trust most performance shops these days. Even if they have a great owner and reputation you might get their new hire to do a crap job on your car. They will seldom admit breakage is their fault. |
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#20 |
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Thanks for the answers already!
I expect about 15K (EUR) for supercharging and 8K for LS3 convertion with cam, not sure what kind of cost to expect for the rest but you guys have given me a good total expectation. I'm not rich or anything but I'm willing to spend some money on it (I'm an 22 year old entrepreneur / student lol so it might take some time but thats alright). I don't know how to mod the car myself yet but I want to learn. If you have any tips for learning please let me know! Last edited by Dvloo; 09-28-2023 at 03:55 AM. |
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#21 | |
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Last edited by Dvloo; 09-28-2023 at 03:56 AM. |
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#22 | |
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Last edited by Dvloo; 09-28-2023 at 03:56 AM. |
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#23 | |
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Last edited by Dvloo; 09-28-2023 at 03:56 AM. |
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#24 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 Chevrolet Camaro l99 Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,232
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I have about 15k in just parts for my rebuild including the reliability for boost or nitrous in the future. Capable of 1000 hp, I don't want to even approach that power level for the sake like others have stated because of the drivetrain requirements. Another thing is traction. With what I have now I can't even get any N/A and that's with Nitto 555r's, the best tire for drag racing but not the worst either but I can't even imagine trying to get 7-800 hp to hook up. So I figure another 10K in parts for boost but that doesn't include any upgraded drivetrain parts like the tranny, diff, or axles probably another 10k in parts. With my path of over 700whp I'm looking at a grand total of around $35k in just parts no labor. So you can see how quickly you can spend money.
As far as learning how to do the work is just to do the work. Experience is the key which I'm assuming you don't currently have much. Good tools are really good to have, and good quality parts are a must. There's plenty of you tube videos to help you along the way and all data is a diy web site that has everything you'll need to help you as well as diagnosing issues, procedures, torque values and a lot more. So you just got to dive into it and take your time read and read as much as you can. This forum is a great place to start with past and current member journals on builds.
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DSS Pistons, Eagle ESP L19 Rods, ARP Head and Main Studs, TSP PRC CNC Ported Heads milled .030, Cometic .040 Head Gaskets, GPI SS3 VVT Camshaft, GM Racing Lifters, CHE Trunnions, Melling 10355HV Oil Pump, Cold Air Inductions CAI, Fast LSXR Intake Manifold, Nick Williams 103 TB, TSP Longtubes, ZL1 Fuel Pump, Mishimoto Radiator and Oil Cooler, 3600 Circle D Converter, Tru Cool 40k Tranny Cooler, Fluid Dynamics Balancer, EBC 3GD Rotors with EBC Bluestuff NDX Pads, Bilstein B6 Shocks / Struts with Eibach ZL1 Drop Springs
Build Thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609817 |
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#25 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 Chevrolet Camaro l99 Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,232
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As for as engine internals, forged bottom end. A two stage nitrous kit is just that it comes on in two stages. Transmission upgrades will be like upgraded clutches and a torque converter is a must (others will have to comment), and upgraded axles and maybe a differential.
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DSS Pistons, Eagle ESP L19 Rods, ARP Head and Main Studs, TSP PRC CNC Ported Heads milled .030, Cometic .040 Head Gaskets, GPI SS3 VVT Camshaft, GM Racing Lifters, CHE Trunnions, Melling 10355HV Oil Pump, Cold Air Inductions CAI, Fast LSXR Intake Manifold, Nick Williams 103 TB, TSP Longtubes, ZL1 Fuel Pump, Mishimoto Radiator and Oil Cooler, 3600 Circle D Converter, Tru Cool 40k Tranny Cooler, Fluid Dynamics Balancer, EBC 3GD Rotors with EBC Bluestuff NDX Pads, Bilstein B6 Shocks / Struts with Eibach ZL1 Drop Springs
Build Thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609817 |
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#26 | |
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#27 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS AGM Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: WNY
Posts: 958
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Add about 5k for headache meds.
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2013 2SS GPI built & tuned 415, spec'd by Andrew Cammer. GPI ported intake/tb/heads, Tooley springs, CHE trunnions, Callies rotating assembly, Diamond pistons, GPI SS3 VVT, ATI 10% ud damper, Circle D 3800, Kooks ceramic coated lt's with green cats, Mishimoto rad & oil cooler, Derale trans cooler, Holley efi rails. DSS driveshaft, trutrac with 3.91's, G-Force renegades, Hendrix solid cradle bushings Bmr: poly diff bushings, Strange adjustable coilovers, sub frame connectors, ZL1 npps, controlled with a vac pump & mac boost control solenoid.
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#28 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro SS , 2011 Colorado LS1 Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 1,218
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First and foremost, you must have the right tools for the job you are doing! Quality work requires 3 things: -Quality parts. Spend a little extra now to save a lot of headache later. -Quality tools. Have the proper tool to perform a specific function. Quality of the tool matters. They pay for themselves in the long run. Quality craftsmanship. Nobody starts with experience. It comes with time spent doing the task. The work is not hard if you have good common sense and have basic mechanical ability. Know the process before you do it ( A lot of research ahead of time). Acquire the proper tools before starting work. Have a game plan when it goes sideways. (It will). Work safe and enjoy the time learning and spent with your car. IMO those are the 3 requirements to do all the work to your car vs paying a shop a ton of money and hoping they do it right. If you *can* do this ( some people just can't) then you are only out the cost of parts + 25% The additional 25% hopefully covers mistakes (they will be made, everybody makes them) and nickel and dime parts that most people don't factor into as an expense. These parts would be things like fluids, nuts, bolts, clamps, shop rags, and other misc parts. For example, I will be starting a TT setup this winter. I have acquired all the parts so far that I expect I will need. All together it's 14k in parts not counting the nickel and dime parts. I have 6k in transmission parts purchased. My next purchase will be diff, axles, and driveshaft. All in all, I will have easily spent 25k to make an easy 800rwhp on SBE. Be warned, it's a bottomless pit that consumes time and money. The more you want to make, the faster it consumes both. I fully expect to be north of 40K by the time I build a motor and things I have not considered yet. It's not for the weak of stomach and should be considered an investment into your happiness. Think long and hard about how happy this will make you. Brian
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| Tags |
| 700hp, l99 camaro, mods |
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