3rd Brake Light: Fixed

[jrmiller636]

Hi All, this is my first post here because I’m not actually a Camaro owner (huge fan though). My sister has a 2013 LT V6 and I just finished fixing her 3rd brake light and wanted to write up my findings in the hope that others can save some $$$. I read numerous threads regarding the 3rd brake light failure but each one ended in total part replacement. The OEM 3rd brake light is about $130. I was able to fix hers for about $0.13. This isn’t as much of a how-to guide as it is a documentation of my findings. Mods please move if this fits the “how-to” criteria.

Presentation: 3rd brake light not functional (zero light, not just dim). Tail lights/brake lights were functional.

Problem: Component failure; diode D1 on LED board.

Solution: Replace diode. If yours troubleshoots the same way mine did, this could save you some cash.



Removal procedure notes:
I did some reading on several threads here; the general consensus was that the light bar replacement procedure was a real b*tch. In all honesty, it really wasn’t a very difficult procedure. Start-finish took me about 1.75 hours and that included the board diagnostic and repair. I wont go into the details of HOW to get the light out, but this Youtube video was very helpful. You’ll need a 15mm and 18mm socket, T50 Torx socket, a plastic rivet puller or flathead, a 7mm combination wrench, and your fingers. One thing I will add is that when you are ready to physically pull the package tray out, go underneath the package tray from inside the trunk bay, and push up through the holes in the sheet metal with an extension or something to free the last bit of the tray. Don’t skip steps in the youtube video and it will come out without much fuss.

Troubleshooting notes:
Once you have the package tray out, flip it over and peel back the jute padding over the LED recess. The LED bar comes out from the outside of the tray (as in: the plug passes through the light bar hole). Push gently on the ends of the lightbar and it will free from its home. Carefully work the clear plastic lens from the LED bar and get your voltmeter and 12v source ready for diagnostic.

This LED board is extremely simple. Its very easy to follow the circuit on the board and test components one by one. IMPORTANT: The black wire with red tracer is positive (on mine). Look at the board and ensure that your polarity is correct before throwing 12 volts at it. I don’t know how robust these diodes are but I didn’t want to take any chances.

Hook up 12 volts to the LED lightbar (via the plug or the board connections) and see if you get lights. Mine didn’t work. Probing with my voltmeter showed 12 volts through the first resistor (R2), but only 3 volts out of the D1 diode which was the next component after the resistor. I tested the diode and it was still working, but was only passing 3 volts which is definitely not enough to fire off the LEDs. I suspect that in instances where people have dim 3rd brake lights, this diode is on its way out too. I suspect the purpose of this diode is to protect the board if polarity is reversed somewhere.

If your diode is not passing 12 volts (in the correct direction), you’ll need to remove and replace it.
The diode on mine was 1N4007 but all you need is a 1 amp 1000v diode. Fry’s or any electronics shop should have this if you need one asap. Its an extremely common and cheap component. Hell you could probably even harvest one out of any electrical device going in the trash.



Brake light repair notes:
You’ll need: a soldering iron, solder wick, and quality solder. You’ll need the diode too but only once you verify that that’s the failure.

The first thing you should note is which direction the cathode stripe is pointed; the new diode has to go on in the same direction. Remove the bad diode (I don’t want to be liable for anything so google/youtube how to replace circuit board components if you’ve never done this or hit up your computer builder buddy). The most important thing is to make sure you don’t scorch the pads on the board. Once you have the old diode out, load the new diode and make sure the cathode is pointed the same as the old one. Solder it into place and trim the ends.






That should be it; test with 12 volts. If you’re curious, this LED bar pulls about 11 milliamps.



I also went in and re-melted all the solder joints on the board; I noticed a couple of joints looked less than stellar. If the diode isn’t your problem, keep running down the circuit path with your voltmeter and see where the 12 volts stops. It will probably be a bad joint or another bad component.



Conclusion:
Nothing on this board is particularly expensive or difficult to replace. With a bit of logic and some patience with GM’s engineers, the 3rd brake light can be fixed for a buck or two. I probably wont be on here much to discuss, but I hope this helps some people or at least gets you pointed in the right direction.

[TommyTheCat]

Good write up, hopefully I won't ever need it but I've seen plenty of 5th gens with the third brake light out

[b3freak]

I applaud your efforts, but I'm afraid component level repair is too time consuming and most don't have the tools (or knowledge?) for the average Camaro owner to tackle. IMHO, most would just pay to replace especially since it's a relatively easy part to swap out. Dorman makes an aftermarket version that can be purchased for about $100, maybe less.

[Linthead]

I also have a 3rd brake light that stopped working. It was the same 1N4007 diode that failed on on my circuit board. I checked it first because I've seen YouTube videos that found the same diode failing. After seeing that the Dorman replacement brake light is around $100, I am changing out the single electrical component and reinstalling. While I have everything out of the way, I am also going to install the following strobe unit that will flash 4 times and then change to a steady on.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SQEI4GO
I'll wire this in near the plug connection on the right side of the of the rear seat back.


2013 SS Coupe