04-16-2024, 05:33 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Rochester, New york
Posts: 1,048
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crossmember brace
Has anyone tried this crossmember brace? maybe its a good option to just cut off the factory brace under the oil pan for ease of pan removal. I have the brackets from cfd. just looking for a easier way to do it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15558849037...3ABFBMoIb95txj
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22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 1300/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.
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04-16-2024, 06:04 AM | #2 |
It don’t come easy.
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Haven’t done anything to the factory brace but, looking at the one you have a link to makes me think, this is something I could build.
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04-16-2024, 06:23 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Rochester, New york
Posts: 1,048
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Anyone can do this with ease. I question the strength of the brace. Will it be strong enough?
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22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 1300/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.
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04-16-2024, 02:09 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,846
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Looks like the Spohn brace with the two additional sides to make a triangle. It might be good if you wanted to cut out the cross member to remove the oil pan and not replace it. One guy did that with the Spohn brace and this gives one more point of attachment. Not sure if it does anything for performance.
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. |
04-16-2024, 02:29 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS , 2011 Colorado LS1 Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 1,008
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I really can’t see that being as rigid as the existing cross member. Not a suitable alternative IMO.
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04-16-2024, 04:08 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: SC
Posts: 89
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I cut that off my car long ago. I kept it because of all the threads here wondering if it would hurt the car or be a problem. It hasn't made a lick of difference being off. My understanding is the Copo Camaro doesn't have it. I don't have it and running iron block on top with poly motor mounts. Again, can't tell what so ever. Flame me if you want but I don't get everyone's need to bolt it back on.
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2010 SS / 376 LSX / AGP Twin Turbo / 910whp 954wtq
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04-16-2024, 04:42 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Rochester, New york
Posts: 1,048
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It’s got to be better than not replacing it. But who knows like trashbasket said not on the copo car.
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22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 1300/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.
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04-16-2024, 04:56 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS , 2011 Colorado LS1 Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 1,008
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No flames from me. I’ve cut it off and will put it back on because I fabbed my own brackets. I think the car would be fine without it also. I do think the COPO car is a poor example. It only goes in a straight line. I think the cross member does contribute to stiffness in turns.
Agree it’s better than nothing, but still don’t think it’s a suitable replacement for the cross member. Just my opinions and I have no evidence to suggest anything I just said is worth a crap.
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04-16-2024, 05:31 PM | #9 | |
Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Rochester, New york
Posts: 1,048
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Quote:
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22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 1300/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.
Last edited by tartagliazl1; 04-16-2024 at 05:44 PM. |
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04-16-2024, 08:48 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Clarksville Tennesse.
Posts: 6,089
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No sure if anyone noticed but that part is photoshop’d onto the front end.
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04-16-2024, 10:19 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 793
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Skip the brace. You can cut out the cross member and fab on plates to make it "bolt on". Almost any fab shop w/ a lift can do this in minimal time.
It is a good idea for dropping the pan, but you wont find many situations where you need to drop the pan. You can do an entire cam swap without dropping the pan completely. |
04-16-2024, 10:20 PM | #12 |
In The Circle
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SSRS IOM M6 Join Date: May 2009
Location: Abbotsford BC Canada
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I used the ones from CFD not that difficult if you have the right tools. You do have to slice the crossmember ends and squeese them smaller to get the flanges on though.
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