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Old 08-04-2024, 04:35 AM   #15
TheBrightSide
 
Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT)
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Sacramento, CA - USA
Posts: 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroCracka View Post
There are holes on the front and back of the heads as well as by the exhaust ports. Bolt hole is slightly larger than manifold bolt holes. Intake manifold bolts are also grounded; in fact, they are used to ground fuel rails against static spark. For a large ground I use the heads and there is even a boss right on the side of the block.
Late reply, but for the engine bay ground, I used the existing ground on the engine head. The ground tab that is tightened down by the bolt on the engine head, has a anti-rotation tab that sticks out, as part of the grounding contact “tab”.

I tightened one end of the cable to that, and then routed the other end of the 4-gauge cable, to the side of the frame/chassis, where a 10mm bolt tightens down a smaller grounding tab, that also has a anti-rotating tab (has it’s own positioning hole).

Most of the cable is around the power steering pump and fluid reservoir (if you have a 10-12 V8 model Camaro). The cable is routed near the first and frontmost header collector, on the driver’s side. It’s safely away from heat, and I was able to route the end from the engine head, to the frame, by tucking the cable behind some of the metal lines and brackets (also has a plug connector around there).

I definitely don’t get any slow or hard cranking/starts anymore, even on the hottest CA summer days (110+ F degree weather). Even before I added the two additional grounds, I had decent cranking even in sub-35 F degree weather in cold CA weather (typically doesn’t drop below 40 F during winters).

That being said, I did replace my starter motor (LS3, manual trans), which was also wrapped in a nice DEI high temp/heat resistant blanket/wrap. I used metal zip ties to keep the heat blanket secured in place, as the wrap only comes with some velcro to keep itself secured. I made sure to cut/trim the metal zip ties and bend the sharp, cut ends inwards; worth the extra effort for aesthetic and safety reasons.
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Old 08-04-2024, 08:03 PM   #16
CamaroCracka


 
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Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
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Sound like what you did is working. When I did the turbo car, I cleaned up the paint off the passenger side ground point and in the trunk. I ran an extra ground off the bell housing, in the trunk and off the engine block drivers side to a bolt hole on the unibody. I also wire-wheeled the cable ends to the positive post on the driver side and that seemed to help a good bit. I don't think it matters as much where you put it as just that you have good grounding and good clean connections on the positive side. I never tried protecting the starter from heat more than the stock heat shield and I know it gets hot over there because it melts regular wire loom on the passenger side.

I have no starter drag on the turbo car, but I do still have a bit on the vert. It has the bell housing and extra trunk ground, but I did not clean anything up just out of laziness. When the battery really starts failing, I imagine I will perform the rest of the ritual before putting in a new one.
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.

2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.
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