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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 547
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replacing components with cradle out vs in.
If you're going to effectively refresh the rear end... sway and end links, cradle bushings, trailing arms, toe rods, lower control arms, how much is advisable to mess with while the cradle is out vs doing cradle bushings, putting it back and then doing all the arms with the cradle in place and re-clocking it?
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 3,053
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IIRC, having the cradle out does not provide much advantage when replacing rear suspension components. Maybe putting the shocks in might be easier as I remember having to put a jack under the LCA to get them lined up. Of course, that was installing Z28 shocks which have 600# springs. IMO, taking the cradle bushings out is easier using a socket and heat with the cradle partially attached to the car unless you have the correct puller to do it out of the car.
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. Gen6 ZL1 brakes. |
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#3 |
![]() Drives: 2013 1ss Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: WI.
Posts: 569
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i replaced everything with cradle out and then after reinstalling cradle I clocked the bushings. I have found that clocking the bushings is much easier if I have the tires off and use a jack to move the side up to ride height, clock the bushings and then install the tire. It opens up a lot of room and gets the same result. I have adjustable height shocks and backed them off to make getting the ride height easier.
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#4 |
![]() Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 547
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Yeah. Clocking is the other aspect. I'll be on QuickJacks, so tires dangle. Was thinking of just putting a jack under each tire one at a time to do it. Guess I'd just have to measure center of wheel to bottom center of fender well to know where it should sit.
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Clarksville Tennesse.
Posts: 6,165
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Just jack the car up put jack stands at each control arm and slowly let down jack to the point that the suspension is settled no need for tires to be on unless you have some kind of ramp set up.
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Orange Krush II
1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components. |
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2014 2SS/RS 6SP Ashen Grey Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: NY
Posts: 1,804
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I used the correct tool to do the cradle bushings, I did it out of the car and it was very easy, If you are replacing the UCA bushing it's much easier out of the vehicle. If you were doing everything at once I'd remove it. I clocked it on a drive on ramp, I drove the car around the parking lot to settle it then torqued everything.
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GM 3.91/TrueTrac OEM ZL1 Rims, 6 Piston Brakes & Side Skirts.ACST4 Splitter/Deflectors NPP M2W,GM Short Throw,GPI Ported Rod Mod,BO White PTB,CAI/JRE Scoop, GC Aluminum DS,Stainless Works Ceramic LTH/HiFlo Cats, Hotckis 1" Springs & Chassis Max Brace BMR Adjustable Swaybars,Trailing Arms, Adjustable Toe Rod, LCA & Z28 UCA Bushings Hendrix Solid Cradle Bushings Pedders Radius Rod Inserts Strut tower brace, Moroso Catch Can,SCT X4 Dynosteve,Remote Clutch reservoir,Hero Smoked Tail and 3rd Brake Light, Diode Dynamic SL1 Fog Lights
AeroForce Dual gauge/Autometer pillar mount. |
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