Oil cooler seals part number needed

[FASTFATBOY]

Search gave me the middle finger.

I searched them online at GM and the picture of it shows a green o ring, then it shows where it's located and it shows the adapter to block gasket.

Is this the correct part number GM (12613165)?

Oil cooler is leaking, I need the 4 green o rings that go here.

[SS_Dave]

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69736

The PDF in this thread has most all part numbers.

[Bo White]

Many have deleted the cooler because of them leaking.

[bsn]

You can go to a good parts store and get Nitril o-rings-. Make sure they are nitrile not Buena N. Also make sure the mounting surface is perfectly flat.

[CamaroDreams76]

Yes that's the correct part number. Amazon has them at 9 dollars a gasket. That's my next fun adventure because mine started leaking as well.

[FASTFATBOY]

Originally Posted by CamaroDreams76

Yes that's the correct part number. Amazon has them at 9 dollars a gasket. That's my next fun adventure because mine started leaking as well.

After looking a little closer, mine was oil cooler to block gasket leaking.

[0stones0]

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY

After looking a little closer, mine was oil cooler to block gasket leaking.

It’s been said that these mating surfaces were never good from the getgo. That’s why you’ll find quite a few deletes occurring.

[FASTFATBOY]

Originally Posted by 0stones0

It’s been said that these mating surfaces were never good from the getgo. That’s why you’ll find quite a few deletes occurring.

Stayed sealed up for 130,000 miles, it's been good.

[Merc]

Originally Posted by Bo White

Many have deleted the cooler because of them leaking.

Whats the down side of deleting the oil cooler and how effective is it?

[Bo White]

Optimum oil temperature is 230°-260°

[FASTFATBOY]

Originally Posted by Bo White

Many have deleted the cooler because of them leaking.

Turns out it was not the block to cooler seal, I will buy the o rings and see if I can save it.

Question to the ones who know, I watched a video on how to pull the cooler on a LS3 and it did not have any coolant running through the cooler.

It appears the ZL1 has coolant lines going to it?

[Trawz]

Originally Posted by Merc

Whats the down side of deleting the oil cooler and how effective is it?

It's kind of effective but not great.
From my understanding, it acts as both an oil warmer and an oil cooler.

The factory cooler uses the coolant to cool the oil. The coolant tends to heat up faster from a cold start then the oil which helps get the oil warmed.
When the engine is heated up, the coolant temp is kept cooler then the oil, hence "cooling" the oil.

Like many here have pointed out, it is a system that is not very effective and prone to failure.
Many, including myself, have deleted it because of that.

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by 0stones0

It’s been said that these mating surfaces were never good from the getgo. That’s why you’ll find quite a few deletes occurring.

This. Usually people who have their oil cooler start leaking from an early age/mileage, have a manufacturing defect with the oil cooler “blocks”/heat exchanger assemblies. The first time I went to go change out the circle, o-ring looking type gaskets in my cooler “block” around 17-18k miles, they looked like new, weren’t damaged anywhere or were deformed, and held as much elasticity as they came new, it looked like. Same thing went for the thin oil pan feed gasket, with built-in o-rings; they were essentially like new.

I got sick of it still leaking, so I took the cooling block/heat exchanger assembly apart, drained it for like half a day, alternating angles to get all the leftover oil and coolant out. Then, I basically cleaned the rest of the mating areas as much as possible and applied Permatex 90-minute black, high temp, oil resistant RTV gasket maker onto the entire face of the cooling block. I didn’t really have a “method” per say; it was more like alternating lines and such to make sure there was essentially no way for any leaks to occur in between any of the makeshift “borders”. I’ll upload a rough photo of what I did, if I can still find it…

It pretty much ended up curing, although it seeped/weeped a teeny tiny bit for like a few hours until I drove back from work and left it until the following morning. It ended up working for the entire next year and a half, while I was prepping parts to set up my custom air-to-oil engine oil cooler setup, to get rid of the stock engine oil cooler.

I would’ve also left it alone after rigging it to stop leaking honestly, but I felt like it leaking was a massive PITA, and you also couldn’t further improve the engine/oil cooling. People apparently ran the Mishimoto oil cooler kit with the factory oil cooler still intact, but I didn’t like the sandwich plate oil filter feed adapters, as well as the efficiency of both of the coolers running together.

Needless to say though, I went with a 200F degree thermostatic Improved Racing oil pan feed with -10 AN threaded adapters, which I ran to a 25-row oil cooler. It’s pretty much identical to the Mishimoto kit, as I got their parts list as a starting point and then sourced my own individual parts, for their quality and to my “needs”. Works fine and my estimated engine oil temps are anywhere around 215-225 in like a sub-90F degree ambient temp conditions, with NORMAL driving. I might find a way to get better transmission fluid and engine oil temp readings, and my thermostatic oil feed actually has a blocked off port I can run an oil temp sensor to.