Pennzoil Ultra Platinum not LS3 safe?

[cbass]

I see Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is not Dexos 1 certified. Does anyone know if that means it is not safe to use inside a LS3 engine?

Recently, the LS3 engine in my 2013 1LE threw a rod and I was city driving not racing. The car has not been raced. It literally just let go coming back from the post office on an engine with only 47,000 original miles and I am in shock. Before then there were two things done. 1) Oil/Filter change. I used the regular Wix filter I have always used, but this time I used Ultra Platinum 5W-30 instead of Platinum 5W-30. 2) New rotors and pads were installed. Oil was in there for 88 miles and new brakes there for 38 miles.

I am trying to make sense why an engine with such low mileage that has had all the service done on schedule or before schedule would throw a rod especially since it has been used normally and not raced.

I am not trying to blame the oil. I am just lost and looking for answers and starting with the last things touched.

[Joe.G]

The last oil change unless done wrong did not cause the damage to the engine, Even the most bullet proof engine lines have parts that fail for one reason or another. If the motor wasn't abused Id lean towards a factory defective part.

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by Joe.G

The last oil change unless done wrong did not cause the damage to the engine, Even the most bullet proof engine lines have parts that fail for one reason or another. If the motor wasn't abused Id lean towards a factory defective part.

This. I know folks that absolutely cheap out on their maintenance and products, with some of their cars both lasting long and not so long. I personally knew a guy who ran mostly only Fram engine oil and Supertech engine oil filters. When he was really on a budget, he and his girlfriend would run the cheapest conventional engine oil and oil filter.

However, I’m pretty sure within the last 5-6 years, the standard typical highest rating for most average engine oil, was an API-SN, SN Plus, or SP. I believe a lot of folks (including myself) run the Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40 engine oil, which isn’t specifically Dexos-approved. But considering something like Pennzoil Euro L 5W-30 is Dexos 2 approved and is only API-SN rated, I don’t think Pennzoil Ultra Platinum was your issue…

I’m assuming OP might know a decent amount about cold starts and letting engines warm up to operating temps… as well as things in the manual that specify 15w-50 engine oil for “TRACK use only”; although the owner’s manual never specified a warm-up procedure for an engine oil weight that high… I’m assuming it’d probably have to be during the summer or spring season at least, and you’d definitely need to idle it for a period before getting on the car and driving it.

[cbass]

Yes, I recognize the importance of letting it warm up before I get on it. Although, I was not getting on it. I was driving it normally. Literally coming back from the post office with my kid in the back seat.

Yes, the oil was changed properly. When the engine failed the oil was still full and clean and nothing was leaking. The new oil filter was pre-filled with oil and the engine filled with the correct amount.

It may make some of you sad because it was a 1LE. However, this was not a track or race car. It was used for spirited driving in the mountains and twisted roads occasionally and more often just a regular commuter. When I say spirited driving, I don't mean bouncing off the rev limiter. It was mostly taking advantage of the good handling.

Like I said originally, I was not trying to blame the oil, but trying to make sense of the situation as the oil was changed just 88 miles ago before the engine threw a rod. I had to ask because that was the last service that happened and the only thing different was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum instead of the Pennzoil Platinum used for the previous few oil changes.

I have never had an engine fail like this. I have an air-cooled Harley with double the miles on the engine than this Camaro and that one still runs like brand new.

I am largely in shock trying to figure out what happened since the maintenance on this vehicle was meticulous.

[cbass]

I don't want to leave this open ended and sitting out on the internet. For my own peace of mind, I ran an oil analysis on the oil from the failed engine and this points to a manufacturing defect. There was nothing wrong with the oil. There was no contamination of any kind either fuel or anti-freeze or brake fluid. Even more surprising the wear metals would have been great for a running engine. Other than some iron there was practically no copper, tin, lead, or aluminum, which would indicate crank bearing wear. Basically, the results do not indicate a fault with the oil or the oil system. I just got screwed by GMs poor manufacturing quality. Ouch.

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by cbass

I don't want to leave this open ended and sitting out on the internet. For my own peace of mind, I ran an oil analysis on the oil from the failed engine and this points to a manufacturing defect. There was nothing wrong with the oil. There was no contamination of any kind either fuel or anti-freeze or brake fluid. Even more surprising the wear metals would have been great for a running engine. Other than some iron there was practically no copper, tin, lead, or aluminum, which would indicate crank bearing wear. Basically, the results do not indicate a fault with the oil or the oil system. I just got screwed by GMs poor manufacturing quality. Ouch.

I’m not in your exact boat, although dealing with absurd amounts of engine blow-by. I have an aftermarket knock-off Mishimoto 6th gen Camaro SS catch can, and it seems to do the job fine, although I had to place an extra in-line PCV valve in the outlet routing to the catch can, to stop it from filling up within 2 weeks of driving…

I’ve yet to do compression tests on it, but I for sure have been taking the best care of it; even went as far as ditching the factory oil cooler setup and routing up my own aftermarket air-to-oil cooler setup. Leaks are also an issue, but I feel like that’s a Chevy thing LOL… Granted, I did buy a garage kept 2010 2SS that I believe, was beat to snot every time it was taken out…

What’s your next plan? Most of these cars and engines can go well into the 150-200k+ range.

[cbass]

Originally Posted by TheBrightSide

What’s your next plan? Most of these cars and engines can go well into the 150-200k+ range.

I believed a well-maintained LS3 that wasn't raced or abused should be able to make it to 300K mi. Even if that was optimistic at worst, I never imagined it couldn't do at least 150K mi. The tow guy also owned a 2013 SS, but his had over 140K mi. on it.

This vehicle was my only vehicle to the point it had two kid seats in the back that I used to transport my kids. That means that I have to get another car in the meantime. I was quoted 18-20K for a new engine by two shops and they had issues sourcing certain parts like intake manifold and oil coolers which are discontinued or no longer available. This means that nothing is going to happen quickly. That range also happens to be roughly what a replacement Camaro would cost me.

My Plan:

1) Buy a different car
2) Contact GM to see what they say
3) Try to see if it can be fixed for less than 20K
4) If above fails, then part out the car or sell the carcass.

Apparently rod failures on the 6.2L V8 variants are not that uncommon.

https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-...ction-lawsuit/

https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news...d=BingNewsSerp

This does not include the LS3, but I had a similar failure.

[Joe.G]

Failures can happen, source an intake manifold? Why can't you use yours and all the other bolt on items?What's wrong with yours? 18 to 20 K are they nuts , you have many options from possibly rebuilding yours ( depends on what and how it failed ) to buying new. The below link is just one options there are many many more out there. Even used.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...RoCOZcQAvD_BwE

[102SS]

Those links are for LT engines in trucks.

My take on the LT failures in trucks...people do not maintain them like they would a Camaro or Vette and probably use oil that is too thick or not recommended JMHO

Those engines roll down the assembly at the same time as the Camaro and Vette variants.

They have differnt bar codes so the right cam intake and exhaust manifolds get installed.

I have toured the St Catharines Engine Plant many times and watched the assembly process from start to finish.

Sorry OP about your engine failure.

Here is a link to a GM Performance LS3 Long Block 525hp for under 7,000 bucks

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19435110

[cbass]

Originally Posted by 102SS

Those links are for LT engines in trucks.

My take on the LT failures in trucks...people do not maintain them like they would a Camaro or Vette and probably use oil that is too thick or not recommended JMHO

That much I understand. I just find it strange they are experiencing bottom end failures. I may be wrong, but I think the crankshaft/rod parts would be similar or shared between the 6.2L V8 variants. Now they start to add direct injection, and cylinder deactivation and variable speed pumps which are blamed for the failures, but it makes me wonder if there is something else going on. Perhaps not and just pure coincidence and bad luck.

As for me even if I do the work myself, I don't see how I do this for much less than $10K in parts.