Cradle bushings - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

SS_Dave · 03-04-2025, 01:32 PM

Opinion time...

For rear cradle bushings on a street car currently not putting out a lot of power, just headers and tune, what would be your preference? Solid, BMR poly, or something else? Car is just for fun and street shenanigans at the moment. May see an occasional amateur track at some point. May get some more power at some point, but it's basic at the moment. Asking because BMR said they would not recommend solid.

Real experience Pro's/Con's of each given my situation? NVH? Etcetera.

tartagliazl1 · 03-04-2025, 01:57 PM

i went with poly inserts, but i have a convertible that has tie bars that connect the subframe to the rear cradle. the bars really help tie everything together. Inserts are the easiest to install.

KillboyPowerhead · 03-04-2025, 02:32 PM

Does BMR not recommend solid because they don't make them?

I did solid on my daily driver and didn't notice any extra NVH. Handling-wise I found the difference between the factory bushings and solid was about the same difference as going from the inboard-mount rear sway bar to the outboard-mount - pretty huge, in other words. Ride/comfort was stiffer but I also did coilovers at the same time which had significantly higher spring rates than factory, so I imagine most of the harsher/stiffer ride was due to them. Even with a V6 I noticed the rear more planted when launching/driving hard, so I can imagine the need for solid bushings is that much greater in an 8.

FasNuf · 03-04-2025, 03:01 PM

I have solid aluminum and NVH is definitely noticeable compared to stock ZL1 rubbers. Unless you're hard launching and toe rods and trailing arms aren't enough to keep wheel hop under control, I would stay stock.

SS_Dave · 03-04-2025, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KillboyPowerhead

Does BMR not recommend solid because they don't make them?

I was almost wondering the same. The comment from Glenn at BMR was...

"I would not do solid unless you are building a race car only. "

cdb95z28 · 03-05-2025, 04:03 AM

I did the Prothane inserts when I had my '14 SS 1LE. Street and road course use. I noticed an improvement in the feel of the rear. Eventually I installed the AFE/Pfadt aluminum solid mounts. I was surprised how much more improvement these were. On track, I could actually feel the rear of the car when the chassis was fully loaded up in the corners. The car felt more like one single piece, more wholly connected. These were a massive step up from even the inserts. I feel so strongly about them that when I was thinking about moving into a Gen6, I purchased a set of the Gen6 ZL1 1LE solid mounts from a member here on the Camaro 6 forums. NHV on the AFEs was minimal, IMHO.

1JEWLDSSRS · 03-05-2025, 09:51 AM

I did the solids on my car, what a huge difference in how tight and planted the rearend is now. They have been in for over 6 years now, if you have a stock exhaust you will notice some more NVH, but I have LT's with a Corsa exhaust and don't hear any of it anymore. These are what I have in my Camaro.. You'll see the difference from stock vs solids.

Joe.G · 03-05-2025, 05:22 PM

I have solids in mine from Hendrix, I highly recommend them and I would not say the NVH was much more noticeable over stock, I 100 % recommend.

CamaroCracka · 03-06-2025, 04:22 PM

I've run poly and solids on both mine. Solids keep the rearend behind it the best when doing burnouts at the track. When I put solids in the turbo car, I put the poly units in the vert. I liked the poly units, but solids do more, and I did not notice an increase in NVH going to solids. I only put solids in the vert because I ran across someone who wanted to trade used solid bushings for a set of the original factory washers, which I hung on to. Then I sold the poly ones because I have too much junk as it is.

CamaroCracka · 03-06-2025, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS_Dave

I was almost wondering the same. The comment from Glenn at BMR was...

"I would not do solid unless you are building a race car only. "

Dennis Collins says, "Real men drive race cars."

cdb95z28 · 03-06-2025, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS_Dave

I was almost wondering the same. The comment from Glenn at BMR was...

"I would not do solid unless you are building a race car only. "

Of course, BMR doesn't sell solids.

03-04-2025, 01:32 PM	#1
SS_Dave Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2021 Location: McKinney, TX Posts: 547	Cradle bushings Opinion time... For rear cradle bushings on a street car currently not putting out a lot of power, just headers and tune, what would be your preference? Solid, BMR poly, or something else? Car is just for fun and street shenanigans at the moment. May see an occasional amateur track at some point. May get some more power at some point, but it's basic at the moment. Asking because BMR said they would not recommend solid. Real experience Pro's/Con's of each given my situation? NVH? Etcetera.

03-04-2025, 01:57 PM	#2
tartagliazl1 Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Rochester, New york Posts: 1,217	i went with poly inserts, but i have a convertible that has tie bars that connect the subframe to the rear cradle. the bars really help tie everything together. Inserts are the easiest to install. __________________ 22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 1300/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ big gulp 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ cnc,milled ported heads/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 781hp 748 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.

03-04-2025, 02:32 PM	#3
KillboyPowerhead Drives: 2015 Z/22 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 989	Does BMR not recommend solid because they don't make them? I did solid on my daily driver and didn't notice any extra NVH. Handling-wise I found the difference between the factory bushings and solid was about the same difference as going from the inboard-mount rear sway bar to the outboard-mount - pretty huge, in other words. Ride/comfort was stiffer but I also did coilovers at the same time which had significantly higher spring rates than factory, so I imagine most of the harsher/stiffer ride was due to them. Even with a V6 I noticed the rear more planted when launching/driving hard, so I can imagine the need for solid bushings is that much greater in an 8. __________________ Overkill/Self Tuned; Mace Camshafts; K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake; Ported 80mm Throttle Body/Intake Manifolds/Manifold Spacer; Solo Performance High-Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust; Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller; Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can; BC Racing BR Coilovers; JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Bushing Inserts, Sway Bars; Pegasus Aluminum Rear Cradle Bushings, Camber/Caster Plates; Z/28 Toe Links, Trailing Arms, Upper Control Arm Bushings, Rear Shock Mounts

03-04-2025, 03:01 PM	#4
FasNuf Drives: 2014 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,703 View My Garage	I have solid aluminum and NVH is definitely noticeable compared to stock ZL1 rubbers. Unless you're hard launching and toe rods and trailing arms aren't enough to keep wheel hop under control, I would stay stock. __________________ . . . . https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgN...etl17hA/videos

03-05-2025, 04:03 AM	#6
cdb95z28 Drives: 2022 1SS 1LE A10 BCD WCT+PDR Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Johnstown, PA Posts: 3,796	I did the Prothane inserts when I had my '14 SS 1LE. Street and road course use. I noticed an improvement in the feel of the rear. Eventually I installed the AFE/Pfadt aluminum solid mounts. I was surprised how much more improvement these were. On track, I could actually feel the rear of the car when the chassis was fully loaded up in the corners. The car felt more like one single piece, more wholly connected. These were a massive step up from even the inserts. I feel so strongly about them that when I was thinking about moving into a Gen6, I purchased a set of the Gen6 ZL1 1LE solid mounts from a member here on the Camaro 6 forums. NHV on the AFEs was minimal, IMHO. __________________ 2022 1SS 1LE A10 BCD WCT+PDR2014 1SS 1LE NPP RECARO SIM-SOLD1995 Z28 M6 GSC PGM-SOLD1975 NOVA COUPE 300HP 350 TH350 FLASH RED-SOLD "KEEP THE FAITH"-Fbodfather

03-05-2025, 05:22 PM	#8
Joe.G Drives: 2014 2SS/RS 6SP Ashen Grey Join Date: Aug 2021 Location: NY Posts: 1,804	I have solids in mine from Hendrix, I highly recommend them and I would not say the NVH was much more noticeable over stock, I 100 % recommend. __________________ GM 3.91/TrueTrac OEM ZL1 Rims, 6 Piston Brakes & Side Skirts.ACST4 Splitter/Deflectors NPP M2W,GM Short Throw,GPI Ported Rod Mod,BO White PTB,CAI/JRE Scoop, GC Aluminum DS,Stainless Works Ceramic LTH/HiFlo Cats, Hotckis 1" Springs & Chassis Max Brace BMR Adjustable Swaybars,Trailing Arms, Adjustable Toe Rod, LCA & Z28 UCA Bushings Hendrix Solid Cradle Bushings Pedders Radius Rod Inserts Strut tower brace, Moroso Catch Can,SCT X4 Dynosteve,Remote Clutch reservoir,Hero Smoked Tail and 3rd Brake Light, Diode Dynamic SL1 Fog Lights AeroForce Dual gauge/Autometer pillar mount.

03-06-2025, 04:22 PM	#9
CamaroCracka Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Palm Bay, FL Posts: 3,053	I've run poly and solids on both mine. Solids keep the rearend behind it the best when doing burnouts at the track. When I put solids in the turbo car, I put the poly units in the vert. I liked the poly units, but solids do more, and I did not notice an increase in NVH going to solids. I only put solids in the vert because I ran across someone who wanted to trade used solid bushings for a set of the original factory washers, which I hung on to. Then I sold the poly ones because I have too much junk as it is. __________________ 2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes. 2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.