Opinions on detail sprays.

[DRC69]

Originally Posted by hesster

This?

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys...34&sr=8-1&th=1

That's the one I like too. Works very well and fast.

[Ernie70]

So far I have 2 of the CG waterless wash, one has Carnuba . (Found a sale) Used the one with Carnuba , then a top coat of the Tech Choice. Left a slick finish with a great glossy shine. Cleaned her up the day before I left out of town on vacation since last Sat and returning this Sat afternoon. So I am curious with all the rain Fl has had , how the products held up.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by hesster

So I ordered both of this CG's spray detailers and will see how they compare to this Mothers product that I have found that works well for a quick shine. I have found high gloss Black Paint hides nothing versus any other color.
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-08216...40&sr=8-1&th=1

That Mothers detail spray was one of the FIRST detail sprays I tried, along with the Mothers California Gold cleaner wax with carnuba, it did alright, but I wanted more shine. I then tried the McGuires detail sprays, black bottle and the purple bottle, the black bottle one did the best, and was better I think than the Mothers products I was using before, the Mothers paste wax was a PITA. Then one of my friends that used the Chemical guys products had a fantastic shine on his 53 Ford truck, so I decided to try their products, and the rest is histort. The only Chemical guys product I didn't like was the leather cleaner/conditioner, The McGuires Ultimate Leather Detailer is the bomb, and smells great! But everyone has their own preferences as to what they like, and it's whatever works for you and your ride. I've been through them all, even tried an Adams product, and it didn't do the job I was looking for.

[Ernie70]

I still use the Mcguires leather conditioner. Was using the Lexal before that , and got the same result with less work with the Mcguires lol

[hesster]

Enjoying this discussion, and appreciate the input on what works for the Forum Members.

So some input from my perspective and experience with Paint Finishing, and hope any of this helps in getting your Paint to shine:

First of all, any Paint from the OEM's has some degree of Orange Peel. The darker the Paint, the more it is evident. It is rather difficult to Buff out to a dead flat surface, even with Heavy Cut Compounds. It will never truly get to a Mirror Finish regardless of the Wax or Detailer Product w/o working it.

To get a Mirror Like Finish, there are a few options.

o One is wet sand until it is dead flat, and then Buff out. On OEM Paint, where the top coat is a Clear Coat, it can be wet sanded flat but you better know when to stop and not burn through. It is not for the novice.
Involves 1000/1500/2000/3000/5000 Grits, and a whole lot of buffing out with progressively finer cutting compounds. This process also applies to new Paint, as that always has "some" OP. Wet sanding will always leave sand scratchs, and requires lot's of Buffing to get all of it out. A Clay bar will NOT get you there, but they will remove surface imperfections.

o A process used more widely is to Buff it out using increasingly finer cutting/buffing compounds and Pads as stated above. Start with Heavy Cut on agressive Pads, and follow with finer cut compounds on softer pads. This will give you a really nice smooth base on which you can then apply your Wax/Polish/Detailer of choice. This also requires technique so as to not burn through the Paint, esp on Edges and Corners.

o Finally, there are endless Wax's, Polishes, Detailers, Ceramics, and "exotic" detailing products out there, as referenced in this thread. My experience is most of them are pretty good, but note the better the Base Paint Finish, the better result you will get with any Final Polish's. Some work better than others to yield a great shine, and some hide imperfections better that others. And some are difficult to apply correctly and not yield blushing, mottling, streaks, etc. The Spray Products are great for quickly keeping the Paint shining, and easy to use - why not use them frequently?

So like many of us out there know, there is no "Miracle" one step Product out there. I find get the Base Paint finished out as best as possible, then apply your Wax and Detailer of choice, and maybe Buff that into the Paint to get the best results.

The last (2) Pics - my T/A Conversion Paint reflections using something with fine print. The First one is from the OEM Door Paint, the 2nd is the New Fender Paint.

Not much difference is there, probably more of the Phone trying to focus? So that is a good thing, and shows you can make 15 year old Paint almost as good as Fresh Paint!

[Ernie70]

Originally Posted by hesster

Enjoying this discussion, and appreciate the input on what works for the Forum Members.

So some input from my perspective and experience with Paint Finishing, and hope any of this helps in getting your Paint to shine:

First of all, any Paint from the OEM's has some degree of Orange Peel. The darker the Paint, the more it is evident. It is rather difficult to Buff out to a dead flat surface, even with Heavy Cut Compounds. It will never truly get to a Mirror Finish regardless of the Wax or Detailer Product w/o working it.

To get a Mirror Like Finish, there are a few options.

o One is wet sand until it is dead flat, and then Buff out. On OEM Paint, where the top coat is a Clear Coat, it can be wet sanded flat but you better know when to stop and not burn through. It is not for the novice.
Involves 1000/1500/2000/3000/5000 Grits, and a whole lot of buffing out with progressively finer cutting compounds. This process also applies to new Paint, as that always has "some" OP. Wet sanding will always leave sand scratchs, and requires lot's of Buffing to get all of it out. A Clay bar will NOT get you there, but they will remove surface imperfections.

o A process used more widely is to Buff it out using increasingly finer cutting/buffing compounds and Pads as stated above. Start with Heavy Cut on agressive Pads, and follow with finer cut compounds on softer pads. This will give you a really nice smooth base on which you can then apply your Wax/Polish/Detailer of choice. This also requires technique so as to not burn through the Paint, esp on Edges and Corners.

o Finally, there are endless Wax's, Polishes, Detailers, Ceramics, and "exotic" detailing products out there, as referenced in this thread. My experience is most of them are pretty good, but note the better the Base Paint Finish, the better result you will get with any Final Polish's. Some work better than others to yield a great shine, and some hide imperfections better that others. And some are difficult to apply correctly and not yield blushing, mottling, streaks, etc. The Spray Products are great for quickly keeping the Paint shining, and easy to use - why not use them frequently?

So like many of us out there know, there is no "Miracle" one step Product out there. I find get the Base Paint finished out as best as possible, then apply your Wax and Detailer of choice, and maybe Buff that into the Paint to get the best results.

The last (2) Pics - my T/A Conversion Paint reflections using something with fine print. The First one is from the OEM Door Paint, the 2nd is the New Fender Paint.

Not much difference is there, probably more of the Phone trying to focus? So that is a good thing, and shows you can make 15 year old Paint almost as good as Fresh Paint!

WOw , great info ! Car looks great, with the paint that looks like you could dive into it .

[Thraul Returns]

Originally Posted by hesster

This?

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys...34&sr=8-1&th=1

Yes sir, just select the "128 FL OZ" option, grab some spray bottles from Walmart and you're all set!

[chevy pilot]

Originally Posted by Ernie70

I still use the Mcguires leather conditioner. Was using the Lexal before that , and got the same result with less work with the Mcguires lol

I use inside easy quick :
Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Mist Streak Free Leather &
Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Mist Streak Free Interior Detailer.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

For a high-quality product at a very inexpensive price, try Ultima Waterless Wash Plus Concentrate.
A 16 oz bottle costs about $20, and makes 5.5 gallons of detail spray/waterless wash.
With the money you save, buy some Microfiber Madness Crazy Pile towels to use with it.

[SS_Dave]

https://kcxusa.com/products/spray-sealant-s0-02-500-ml

This stuff is amazing. Super easy to apply and leaves an awesome finish.

Personally...
- Foam cannon and hand wash - P&S Pearl for wash.
- Koch Chemie PW - Use this every couple washes. Just a little (like a capful) in the foam cannon as a rinseless. Let it sit a bit and then dry the car.
-3D Wheel Kleen - buy big and dilute.
- Hydro Silex for tire finish, although VRP has been pretty good too.

- 3D GLW Clay luber when doing a clay job (with clay mitt) - I buy larger and dilute.
- Koch Chemie SO02 - for periodic finishing after clay instead of spray on wax.

On the more rare occasion when a full DA polish is merited, Rupes DA Polish ( fine or coarse depending on your need)