Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Bigwormgraphix
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > General Camaro Forums > 5th Gen Camaro SS LS LT General Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 06-18-2025, 12:38 AM   #1
econ
 
Drives: 2013 2ss
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: oregon
Posts: 152
Thinking about turning my Gen 5 Camaro into a race only car

Not seeking a comprehensive list of specific how-to information here. Too much for one thread.

But I do have some general questions.

My general plans are.....

---To keep the power train as is, stock. Stock injectors.

---Dump the CAN network, all factory control modules

---Use a stand-alone ECU to run the engine

---Throttle cable conversion (maybe, looks like a better way to go)


I will gladly and willingly loose headlights, brake lights, turn signals, radio, instrument cluster, heater, AC, power steering.....all that stuff. This is a direction I am thinking about going.

Now, my question is this?

What do I do about the fuel pump? Cooling fans? Starting the engine? What happens to anti lock brakes? How do I open the trunk?

The car....

2013 Camaro 2SS, LS3, 6 speed manual

Thanks!

Only ever done this with a carb'd engine and OBD1 engine. Never CAN.....
econ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2025, 01:01 AM   #2
Aqua Blue RS/SS


 
Aqua Blue RS/SS's Avatar
 
Drives: ABM #93
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Lotaburger
Posts: 3,188
Why would you do all that and keep the stock power train? Seems extremely pointless to me.
__________________
ABM #2399 2SS/RS:SOLD
ABM #93 2SS/RS Black Rally stripes, Titanium Interior 4,000 miles: GM GFX side skirts and diffuser waiting on paint, GM dovetail, GM heritage, RPI ZL1 style splitter.
‘87 IROC-Z Iroc blue. all original unmolested with 50K miles.
Aqua Blue RS/SS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2025, 05:40 AM   #3
acutron42

 
acutron42's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS AGM
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: WNY
Posts: 957
That would be a complete waste of time & money. If your goal was an 8 or 9 second pass at the drag strip with a ton of power that is a different story. If you want to build a "race only" car look at sites like copart. You can probaly find a stripped/recovered theft salvage car for under a grand.
__________________
2013 2SS GPI built & tuned 415, spec'd by Andrew Cammer. GPI ported intake/tb/heads, Tooley springs, CHE trunnions, Callies rotating assembly, Diamond pistons, GPI SS3 VVT, ATI 10% ud damper, Circle D 3800, Kooks ceramic coated lt's with green cats, Mishimoto rad & oil cooler, Derale trans cooler, Holley efi rails. DSS driveshaft, trutrac with 3.91's, G-Force renegades, Hendrix solid cradle bushings Bmr: poly diff bushings, Strange adjustable coilovers, sub frame connectors, ZL1 npps, controlled with a vac pump & mac boost control solenoid.
acutron42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2025, 08:58 AM   #4
gtstorey


 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,450
Start with what kind of race car. Road or drag racing?

I don't think you will find anything on copart that can be made drivable for under a grand. To many "LS Breaker" around. Might something under $10k though.

First step is making sure you have access to the full wiring diagrams for the car. But I don't know that going full aftermarket ecu is necessary. And I don't know that it will be possible if you want to keep the antilock brakes.

Fuel system would probably need to have an aftermarket regulator installed.

Powering/controlling the fuel pump, fans and staring would be handled by the aftermarket ecu and relays. Trunk would need to be studied, I don't know if that is a module at the trunk latch or can be directly powered by +12v or ground. Same with door latches.
gtstorey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2025, 09:27 AM   #5
1JEWLDSSRS


 
1JEWLDSSRS's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 SS-RS
Join Date: May 2011
Location: FLORIDA
Posts: 14,043
Total waste of money and time I think, and you would be destroying a nice 5th gen. If you want o build a "race car", find yourself something that you can fix up for a lot cheaper, and easier.
__________________
TSP STAGE 3 CAM,231/246 @112 LSA 614/641 LIFT, CIRCLE D 5C-4200-4500 CONVERTER,LOD INTAKE.CORSA EXHAUST. DSS 1 PC DS. PEGASUS SOLID CRADLE MOUNTS. 486RWHP/475RWTQ.LOTS MORE.
1JEWLDSSRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2025, 09:51 AM   #6
acutron42

 
acutron42's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS AGM
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: WNY
Posts: 957
Yeah GT, a grand is light lol. I was looking at a salvaged 3.6 not thinking lol.
__________________
2013 2SS GPI built & tuned 415, spec'd by Andrew Cammer. GPI ported intake/tb/heads, Tooley springs, CHE trunnions, Callies rotating assembly, Diamond pistons, GPI SS3 VVT, ATI 10% ud damper, Circle D 3800, Kooks ceramic coated lt's with green cats, Mishimoto rad & oil cooler, Derale trans cooler, Holley efi rails. DSS driveshaft, trutrac with 3.91's, G-Force renegades, Hendrix solid cradle bushings Bmr: poly diff bushings, Strange adjustable coilovers, sub frame connectors, ZL1 npps, controlled with a vac pump & mac boost control solenoid.
acutron42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2025, 05:07 PM   #7
redcoats1976


 
Drives: LT W/2LT,blue metallic
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: central florida
Posts: 5,032
If youre going to gut all the computers and drivetrain anyway,a V6 car is as good a start as any.
redcoats1976 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2025, 09:30 PM   #8
econ
 
Drives: 2013 2ss
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: oregon
Posts: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Blue RS/SS View Post
Why would you do all that and keep the stock power train? Seems extremely pointless to me.
Trying to focus more on the "how" than the "why," but if you consider the "why" of it all to be useful information, I will share.

I am having issues with the can. The cost of the dealer fixing said issues is equal to the cost of a Holly Terminator or Dominator set up (about $2K).

So, which direction to go? The stock power train will suffice for my off-road activities (it's required in some cases), so for now, the stock power train stays. With the Holly stand alone, it will easily support any changes that I may want to make down the road. So, the stand alone makes more sense from my stand point.

True, I could stick with the factory CAN set up, and run it, but then it will be costly (about $2K) and I am stuck with a set up that I can not easily maintain long term. I don't know about you, but working on the CAN is not something I am tooled up to do and it's a little over my head. The Holley on the other hand is very DIY friendly.
econ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2025, 09:34 PM   #9
econ
 
Drives: 2013 2ss
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: oregon
Posts: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by acutron42 View Post
That would be a complete waste of time & money. If your goal was an 8 or 9 second pass at the drag strip with a ton of power that is a different story. If you want to build a "race only" car look at sites like copart. You can probaly find a stripped/recovered theft salvage car for under a grand.
See post #8.

I would be perfectly content with the stock performance for my off road activities. Not looking for a "shell" to start from scratch.

Simply trying to go stand alone. Not sure about a few things though...
econ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2025, 09:42 PM   #10
econ
 
Drives: 2013 2ss
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: oregon
Posts: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
Start with what kind of race car. Road or drag racing?

I don't think you will find anything on copart that can be made drivable for under a grand. To many "LS Breaker" around. Might something under $10k though.

First step is making sure you have access to the full wiring diagrams for the car. But I don't know that going full aftermarket ecu is necessary. And I don't know that it will be possible if you want to keep the antilock brakes.

Fuel system would probably need to have an aftermarket regulator installed.

Powering/controlling the fuel pump, fans and staring would be handled by the aftermarket ecu and relays. Trunk would need to be studied, I don't know if that is a module at the trunk latch or can be directly powered by +12v or ground. Same with door latches.
I have my eye on the OEM service manual. The 4 volume set.

I am not intent on keeping the anti lock brakes. I am simply wondering what to do about them if the CAN is no longer operational. There is a module with 4 lines going to it. Just leave it? Replace it with something? Just thinking out loud as I ponder what I am up against.

So fuel pump, fans, starter are all handled by the ECU such as the Holley Dominator or Terminator?

I would prefer a throttle cable as well....Anyone here use a throttle cable?
econ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2025, 09:45 PM   #11
econ
 
Drives: 2013 2ss
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: oregon
Posts: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
Total waste of money and time I think, and you would be destroying a nice 5th gen. If you want o build a "race car", find yourself something that you can fix up for a lot cheaper, and easier.
The thing about the stand alone kits is that they are very DIY friendly.

Not worried about time, money and destroying a 5th gen. Just trying to go stand alone, get rid of the CAN, have an easy to work on car that I can toy with at the track. The car itself is a toy.
econ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2025, 09:46 PM   #12
econ
 
Drives: 2013 2ss
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: oregon
Posts: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcoats1976 View Post
If youre going to gut all the computers and drivetrain anyway,a V6 car is as good a start as any.
Keeping the power train, gutting the CAN, going stand alone
econ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2025, 09:49 PM   #13
econ
 
Drives: 2013 2ss
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: oregon
Posts: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
Powering/controlling the fuel pump, fans and staring would be handled by the aftermarket ecu and relays. Trunk would need to be studied, I don't know if that is a module at the trunk latch or can be directly powered by +12v or ground. Same with door latches.
So I will loose, windshield wipers, lights, windows that go up and down, cluster, gauges, horn, turn signals. Thats fine.

But I will have to figure out doors and trunk.
econ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2025, 05:43 AM   #14
acutron42

 
acutron42's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS AGM
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: WNY
Posts: 957
Thank you for the explanations, this helps to get you the anserwers you seek. Is this car going to be track only & not inspected to your state emmisions requirements? I am assuming so as you wont need turn signals.
__________________
2013 2SS GPI built & tuned 415, spec'd by Andrew Cammer. GPI ported intake/tb/heads, Tooley springs, CHE trunnions, Callies rotating assembly, Diamond pistons, GPI SS3 VVT, ATI 10% ud damper, Circle D 3800, Kooks ceramic coated lt's with green cats, Mishimoto rad & oil cooler, Derale trans cooler, Holley efi rails. DSS driveshaft, trutrac with 3.91's, G-Force renegades, Hendrix solid cradle bushings Bmr: poly diff bushings, Strange adjustable coilovers, sub frame connectors, ZL1 npps, controlled with a vac pump & mac boost control solenoid.
acutron42 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:14 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.