Access to headers bolts through fender well - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

BlackBird1 · 09-04-2025, 12:31 AM

Hello, I was wondering if i can access the header bolts on the passager side through the fender well by removing the plastic inner fender cover, is this possible?

larry_g · 09-04-2025, 07:47 AM

Nope. It's still mostly metal under there. By the time you get to the open area the angle is all wrong.

Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

1JEWLDSSRS · 09-04-2025, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larry_g

Nope. It's still mostly metal under there. By the time you get to the open area the angle is all wrong.

Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

Yep, topside access only..

CamaroCracka · 09-08-2025, 10:39 AM

Assuming you are having a problem reaching the rear bolts, I've changed the #8 plug from underneath the car. You might be able to get on the rear bolts from there. An air or electric ratchet would be helpful.

bsn · 09-08-2025, 05:02 PM

Universal joint and an extension-even better if you have a flex joint socket.

TheBrightSide · 09-14-2025, 08:58 PM

You technically “can”, but it’s not even worth doing. What exactly are you trying to do? Remove the stock, factory cast iron headers/manifolds, to install some long tube headers?

When I first installed my 1-3/4” BBK shorty headers, I used extensions and a flex joint, to reach down from above in the engine bay and remove the two nuts/studs holding the down pipes/cats to the headers. It made removing the cast iron headers a LOT easier, since the cast iron weighs a ton.

Technically, you could remove the whole 2-pc header/down pipe combo altogether, but it’s pretty heavy. I usually leave a jack stand underneath the down pipes, when I’m removing the header bolts that actually mount the manifolds to the engine heads. This helps hold it in place, and also help position it if you need to get to some harder to reach bolts.

I tried re-installing the cast iron headers altogether, with the down pipes installed onto them off the car; and boy, were they heavy and took me forever. I kept having to adjust the jack stands underneath the down pipes, to finally get all of the header bolts in place. Certain shorty headers, if you ever consider them, are kinda troublesome. Some have to run certain angled spark plug wires.

The BBK shorty headers I had, couldn’t use the L99 downpipes that had the flex pipes. The BBK shorty headers’ primary tubes were also too big and bent in a way, where you couldn’t use a stud and nut on the stock downpipes. You had to remove the studs and then run a shorter bolt from the top down. Or alternatively, you could run a M8 metric hex sized bolt and nut, where the bolt can fit through the exhaust manifold flange and down into the threaded stock downpipe exhaust flange. Such a hassle, and I eventually ran aftermarket high flow catted downpipes, where I was able to run the M10-1.5 nuts and bolts (but still had to install them upside down).

09-04-2025, 12:31 AM	#1
BlackBird1 Drives: Chevy camaro SS Join Date: May 2020 Location: Maryland Posts: 22	Access to headers bolts through fender well Hello, I was wondering if i can access the header bolts on the passager side through the fender well by removing the plastic inner fender cover, is this possible?

09-04-2025, 07:47 AM	#2
larry_g Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 875	Nope. It's still mostly metal under there. By the time you get to the open area the angle is all wrong. Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk __________________ 830 WHP 700 WTQ, Whipple 2.9 @ 13lbs Boost, Flex Fuel Tune by Blevins Tuning, LSA SBE, 3.5 GripTec, ATI LS3 Damper, AFR 260cc Mongoose, ARP Studs, Yella Terra Ultralites, Johnson 2110R, BTR PDS Stage 3, Melling 10355, Improved Racing Baffle, ID1050X, DSX Triple Fuel Pump, RotoFab CAI, NW 103mm TB, Stainless Works 1-7/8" LTH to 3" Speed Eng w/ X-pipe to NPP, Powermaster 9509 XS, Detroit Speed Motor Mounts, MGW, Monster LT1-S, ZL1 Calipers, DBA Rotors & Pads, Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks, BMR 1.25" Drop Springs & Adj Rear Bar, Pegasus Solid Bushings, Z/28 Wheels, other misc parts.

09-08-2025, 10:39 AM	#4
CamaroCracka Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Palm Bay, FL Posts: 3,029	Assuming you are having a problem reaching the rear bolts, I've changed the #8 plug from underneath the car. You might be able to get on the rear bolts from there. An air or electric ratchet would be helpful. __________________ 2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes. 2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.

09-08-2025, 05:02 PM	#5
bsn Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: Virginia Posts: 469	Universal joint and an extension-even better if you have a flex joint socket.

09-14-2025, 08:58 PM	#6
TheBrightSide Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT) Join Date: Jan 2024 Location: Sacramento, CA - USA Posts: 367	You technically “can”, but it’s not even worth doing. What exactly are you trying to do? Remove the stock, factory cast iron headers/manifolds, to install some long tube headers? When I first installed my 1-3/4” BBK shorty headers, I used extensions and a flex joint, to reach down from above in the engine bay and remove the two nuts/studs holding the down pipes/cats to the headers. It made removing the cast iron headers a LOT easier, since the cast iron weighs a ton. Technically, you could remove the whole 2-pc header/down pipe combo altogether, but it’s pretty heavy. I usually leave a jack stand underneath the down pipes, when I’m removing the header bolts that actually mount the manifolds to the engine heads. This helps hold it in place, and also help position it if you need to get to some harder to reach bolts. I tried re-installing the cast iron headers altogether, with the down pipes installed onto them off the car; and boy, were they heavy and took me forever. I kept having to adjust the jack stands underneath the down pipes, to finally get all of the header bolts in place. Certain shorty headers, if you ever consider them, are kinda troublesome. Some have to run certain angled spark plug wires. The BBK shorty headers I had, couldn’t use the L99 downpipes that had the flex pipes. The BBK shorty headers’ primary tubes were also too big and bent in a way, where you couldn’t use a stud and nut on the stock downpipes. You had to remove the studs and then run a shorter bolt from the top down. Or alternatively, you could run a M8 metric hex sized bolt and nut, where the bolt can fit through the exhaust manifold flange and down into the threaded stock downpipe exhaust flange. Such a hassle, and I eventually ran aftermarket high flow catted downpipes, where I was able to run the M10-1.5 nuts and bolts (but still had to install them upside down).