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Old 09-21-2025, 12:29 PM   #1
Deandt1
 
Drives: 2012 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1
Join Date: Oct 2023
Location: Brookhaven, PA
Posts: 2
Exclamation Driver Side Inner CV Slinging Grease

So a few moths back I had the whole car disassembled down to unibody from the TR6060 all the way back excluding the tank. I rebuilt the driveshaft.w/new u-joint and DS support begr, diff seals and BMR delran/poly bushings, BMR polys in the rear subframe. Cleaned all the rust off the body, diff and subframe and painted. Got new lower CAs (GM) new Z/28 Trailing arms and poly knuckle BMR bushings, reused the toe and upper CAs after media blasting and paint with BMR delran bushings also rear shock mounts, rear calipers, factory tunnel brace, subframe bush hat washers blasted and painted and brake hoses. And last but not least because there was a good bit of grease slung all around drivers side inner CV I broke apart the inner joint cleaned and inspected all looked good with the axle so I repacked with grease reassembled and put on a new boot. Although I never found an obvious hole or rip in the boot I figured what else could it be. So after driving a few times over the last month I went to check over all that work and found grease everywhere again. And the boot was dry and clean and no grease on the axle anywhere. So I took it out and split the inner joint again.and still couldn’t see why. Zoomed with my phone nothing. So I make an airtight cap to put over the inner stub put some pressure to it and I find it. Never in 30 years fixing cars and 10 of them owning a shop have I seen this.
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Old 09-22-2025, 08:29 PM   #2
ZMEnow

 
Drives: ZL1, 2013, tri-coat-red, manual
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,665
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deandt1 View Post
So a few moths back I had the whole car disassembled down to unibody from the TR6060 all the way back excluding the tank. I rebuilt the driveshaft.w/new u-joint and DS support begr, diff seals and BMR delran/poly bushings, BMR polys in the rear subframe. Cleaned all the rust off the body, diff and subframe and painted. Got new lower CAs (GM) new Z/28 Trailing arms and poly knuckle BMR bushings, reused the toe and upper CAs after media blasting and paint with BMR delran bushings also rear shock mounts, rear calipers, factory tunnel brace, subframe bush hat washers blasted and painted and brake hoses. And last but not least because there was a good bit of grease slung all around drivers side inner CV I broke apart the inner joint cleaned and inspected all looked good with the axle so I repacked with grease reassembled and put on a new boot. Although I never found an obvious hole or rip in the boot I figured what else could it be. So after driving a few times over the last month I went to check over all that work and found grease everywhere again. And the boot was dry and clean and no grease on the axle anywhere. So I took it out and split the inner joint again.and still couldn’t see why. Zoomed with my phone nothing. So I make an airtight cap to put over the inner stub put some pressure to it and I find it. Never in 30 years fixing cars and 10 of them owning a shop have I seen this.
Just impressed that you found the parts, especially the driveshaft center bearing and u joints.
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Old 09-23-2025, 06:05 PM   #3
bsn
 
Drives: 2013 ZL1
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Virginia
Posts: 469
It has to be the boot Did you use the crimp type clamps, or the Ttpe you wind with a tool?
The crimp clamps do a better job of making it as tight as possible. I would go ahead and replace the boot, if you can't find one locally, a traditional parts store should be able to find
A boot in stock that will work-just make sure it's as long or longer than the original boot.
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Old 09-27-2025, 11:54 PM   #4
roh
 
Drives: 2013 ZL1
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Northeast
Posts: 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsn View Post
It has to be the boot Did you use the crimp type clamps, or the Ttpe you wind with a tool?
The crimp clamps do a better job of making it as tight as possible. I would go ahead and replace the boot, if you can't find one locally, a traditional parts store should be able to find
A boot in stock that will work-just make sure it's as long or longer than the original boot.
What are you not understanding here?
Did you see the pictures??
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