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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2013 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2025
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 14
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reliable power numbers and what to do to when installing a cam
I have a 2013 auto zl1, i really want to hit the 700-750 whp mark and i can do that with a cam but im not sure of a few things.
1. I have an automatic, and id rather not go for a drive and discover I have 6 neutrals after a pull. 2. when doing a camshaft upgrade, what needs to be done to really bullet proof the surrounding components, so I don't experience any issues when revving it higher/throwing the more aggressive cam in there 3. will the 6l90/driveshaft/axle's/diff be able to take abuse from that? I have kept up with maintenance like swapping the trans fluid/filter at 60kmiles and swapping the differential fluid at 70k as well as oil changes and all that other fun stuff I daily this car and want that signature chop and 700whp but want to make sure I go about it the right way and don't screw myself having to rebuild the transmission and all that p.s. I am not hard launching it from the drag strip, nor am i even on a drag tire. most id do is the occasional pull while driving home or eventually doing open track days, thank you in advance for whoever can shed insght/pointers in any of the above topics
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2013 Camaro ZL1 (auto) 2.45" upper pulley, roto fab big gulp intake, 1 7/8 stainless works catless longtube headers, e-85. ~650whp ~630wtq
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#2 |
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Tri-County Camaro SWFL
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1. People run 800whp all day long and abuse the hell out of their bone stock 6L90. That doesnt need to be touched. I know of a 1K whp ZL1 that had hundreds of passes on the 6L with a stock torque converter. Zero done to the trans.
2. Pushrods, springs, retainers. Check out BTR or Texas speed. They sell entire kits with everything you will need. 3. Axles are the only eh thing but the diff is rock solid. People upgrade their SS to ZL1 diffs and throw a ton of power at them. The factory ZL1 drivetrain is pretty stout.
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#3 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: ZL1, 2013, tri-coat-red, manual Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,665
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Quote:
You are about max of the rear end components now for daily use or if you want to keep the car for long term. 1st to go will be the struts if they are still mag, second will be the trailing arm bushings and then the bars themselves will bend. That’s just the beginning.. keep in mind you can’t barely find the one time use bolts to remove the driveshaft, or the driveshaft or center bearing as they are all discontinued. And absolutely nothing left for the rear pig, no diff gasket, pinion seal, so if you want to keep the OEM stuff tread lightly. If you want to start putting in 3rd party stuff then go for the 1k mark and enjoy it while it last.. |
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#4 |
![]() Drives: 2013 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 83
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Go ahead, modify it
We need more parts cars |
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#5 | |
![]() Drives: 2013 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2025
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 14
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Quote:
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2013 Camaro ZL1 (auto) 2.45" upper pulley, roto fab big gulp intake, 1 7/8 stainless works catless longtube headers, e-85. ~650whp ~630wtq
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#6 |
![]() Drives: 2013 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2025
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 14
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all cars are parts cars when you think about it, just in varying condition
__________________
2013 Camaro ZL1 (auto) 2.45" upper pulley, roto fab big gulp intake, 1 7/8 stainless works catless longtube headers, e-85. ~650whp ~630wtq
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#7 | |
![]() Drives: 2013 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2025
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 14
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Quote:
__________________
2013 Camaro ZL1 (auto) 2.45" upper pulley, roto fab big gulp intake, 1 7/8 stainless works catless longtube headers, e-85. ~650whp ~630wtq
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#8 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: ZL1, 2013, tri-coat-red, manual Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,665
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Quote:
Transmission really depend on how you use them. I have seen guys with the M6 at 1000hp using stock clutches, but they were granny shifting, not nls. |
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