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#15 | ||
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99% of people will never notice the dust bubbles, but after 10 years of being a window film installer, you notice. ![]() You will have a hazy, blistered looking appearance until the film finishes the curing process. You don't want to roll down your windows until the film has cured. Your installer will tell you don't roll your windows down for "whatever amount of days" based on a the weather climate in your location. Curing times vary greatly. In say Las Vegas or Phoenix in the middle of summer, window film will completely cure in a matter of an hour or two outside, while in climates at or below freezing it could take weeks. Last edited by bng804; 01-02-2010 at 01:35 PM. |
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#16 |
![]() Drives: 2SS RS Yellow, Raptor, Vrod Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 599
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I disagree, there is a purpose to the third breaklight and they should cut around it. That's just like tinting your breaklights.
Mine is cut out and it looks very nice! Plus the light is still visible like it should be.
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2SS RS Rally Yellow, LS3, M6, sunroof, extra on the fast!
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#17 | |
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Now, installers will try to tell you that it's for legality or safety reasons, but it's generally to cover their own butts after they were lazy and and took the quicker, easier way out. I have currently have 20% on my rear window and you can see the brake light with no problems whatsoever right through the tint. I have had 5% on other cars with no problems seeing the brake light through the film. It's funny, there is a yellow 1LT in the small town that I live in that had the brake light cut out of their film. After seeing mine with the light covered, they took theirs back to the installer and had them re-tint the back window with the light covered. If you want it cut out just let the shop know and I'm sure they'll be happy to do it. Personal preference I suppose. I can just tell you from the installer's point of view, they would love to cut it out as it makes their job easier, especially on a vehicle like the Camaro that it's a major PIA to take out the rear deck. |
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#18 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2LT/RS ABM Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 13,075
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2LT, RS, AT6 ABM, Gray Leather
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1100 Order accepted at dealer: 9/15/2009 - NPGV41. 2000 Order accepted by GM: 9/29/2009 3000 Accepted By Production Control: 9/30/2009 - TPW 10/26/09 3100 Sequenced:10/12/09 3300 Scheduled For Production:10/13/09 3400 Broadcast:10/22/09 3800 Produced:10/27/09 4000 Available To Ship:10/28/09 4200 Shipped:10/29/09 5000 Delivered To The Dealer:11/09/09 6000 Delivered To Customer:11/12/09 |
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#19 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: FIRST ON RACE DAY Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,170
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If they are a good company then there wont be any bubble's ever........
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#20 |
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS, A6 Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 268
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2 weeks is insane! one good day in good summer sun should do it.. as for the third light? that light shines perfectly through the tint, and the bubbles should be gone after a good day or two in summer sun. I only say summer sun because I live in n.y.... also, do not EVER use windex on your tint, or any other window cleaner that's not tint friendly, ie no amonia, or it'll eventually ripple/melt, and turn purplish....
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#21 |
![]() Drives: IOM 1ss Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: united kingdom
Posts: 222
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Excuse my naivity but,
Is 20% lighter or darker than Say,30%? |
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#22 |
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Moderator
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The percent is based on the amount of light getting going through the tint. 20% tint is darker than 30%.
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RDP Motorsport//GEN5DIY//Cultrag Performance//JPSS//Rodgets Chevrolet//
Operation Demon//Buy at Invoice//RACECARWEAR RESPECT ALL CARS. LOVE YOUR OWN. warn 145:159 ban |
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#23 |
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no bubbles in mine. any good tinter should be able to do it without bubbles.
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Brixton Forged
CM10 Wheels IN STOCK!!! RF7 SOON!!!! Camaro/M3/M4 wheels in stock High Gloss Titanium |
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#24 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS 6SP LS7 swapped Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Dover, TN
Posts: 56
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Windex makes a "Tint-Safe" version btw (ammonia free)
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LS7 swap stage 3 cam, MSD intake, NW 103 TB, LME heads, JBA ceramic coated LT's 1 7/8" Flowmaster 3" w/high flow cats & X pipe, MPD Motorsports cowl induction hood, CAI, ZL1 front clip, Jet Mass-Air Sensor, rear valence, Stealth bulbs, 20% tint, taillight blackouts, side marker blackouts, modern SS emblem back, 427 rear emblem, S.S. rear spoiler, MGW shifter, black ZL1 replica wheels (wider), 160* thermostat, front firing 2x12" Rockford Fosgate subs, NA 619rwhp on Mustang Dyno
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#25 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS 6SP LS7 swapped Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Dover, TN
Posts: 56
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I agree. My tint guy has tinted 3 vehicles for me in the last 2 years. Not one single bubble. He also uses a computer linked to a machine that cuts the tint for him. No jagged edges. No knife touches your car. Tint goes to the edge of the glass without filing (and does not peel back either). It almost looks as if the glass itself were tempered in the 20% or whatever % you buy. Comes with a written warranty, too. He does custom vinyl racing stripes, etc. Everything. Prices are great, too. I had him put on the Dupont protection the dealer wanted to charge $400 for and I will tell you I paid A LOT less than that. If you're in the Columbus, GA area, PM me and I'll pass along his contact. His setup is portable so he can come to you also!
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LS7 swap stage 3 cam, MSD intake, NW 103 TB, LME heads, JBA ceramic coated LT's 1 7/8" Flowmaster 3" w/high flow cats & X pipe, MPD Motorsports cowl induction hood, CAI, ZL1 front clip, Jet Mass-Air Sensor, rear valence, Stealth bulbs, 20% tint, taillight blackouts, side marker blackouts, modern SS emblem back, 427 rear emblem, S.S. rear spoiler, MGW shifter, black ZL1 replica wheels (wider), 160* thermostat, front firing 2x12" Rockford Fosgate subs, NA 619rwhp on Mustang Dyno
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#26 | |
![]() Drives: 10 2SS, 08 Sienna, 12 Sonic Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 101
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It could be that the purpose of your life is to only serve as a warning to others. Ashleigh Brilliant
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#27 |
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Yep, that's how I do it as well. It's a little tricky getting it perfect just using a hard card behind the brake light, but much easier than pulling the rear deck in the Camaro. On other cars that have easier to remove brake lights I just pop the brake light out - tint - and replace the light assembly.
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