Cross drilled slotted rotors - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

mtcwby · 01-17-2010, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael_Js

This is a picture of my rotors straight from Stillen. "L" means driver's side, "R", passenger:

That matches MtcWby's descriptions...

Oh, still need all (but the lug nut) torque values!

Thanks...

The torque for the bolts that hold the Caliper to the knuckle is 30 lbft plus an extra 90 degrees. So, turn the bolt an xtra 1/4 turn after the torque is at 30 lbft. Also, you should put blue loctite on those bolts. Thant is why they are so tough to remove. They have loctite on them from the factory.

The GM document doesn't show a torque value for the torx screw that holds the rotor on the hub. Just put some blue loctite on it and tighten it as tight as you can, with out breaking it.

The lug nuts should be torqued to 140 lbft for the aluminum wheels.

hypurone · 01-17-2010, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtcwby

The torque for the bolts that hold the Caliper to the knuckle is 30 lbft plus an extra 90 degrees. So, turn the bolt an xtra 1/4 turn after the torque is at 30 lbft. Also, you should put blue loctite on those bolts. Thant is why they are so tough to remove. They have loctite on them from the factory.

The GM document doesn't show a torque value for the torx screw that holds the rotor on the hub. Just put some blue loctite on it and tighten it as tight as you can, with out breaking it.

The lug nuts should be torqued to 140 lbft for the aluminum wheels.

140? You sure about that? That's huge. More than my Silverado 1/2 ton!! Do you have a pdf or something with values in it?

Michael_Js · 01-17-2010, 05:38 PM

Yes, we went through the 140 ft lbs in other threads. It's 140

Thanks for the numbers!!

Michael J.

mtcwby · 01-17-2010, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hypurone

140? You sure about that? That's huge. More than my Silverado 1/2 ton!! Do you have a pdf or something with values in it?

Page 11-3 of your Camaro Owners Manual......140 ft lb
does nobody read the owners manual anymore, half the quetions asked in these forums are answered in the manual!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael_Js

Yes, we went through the 140 ft lbs in other threads. It's 140

Thanks for the numbers!!

Michael J.

No problem!!

Michael_Js · 01-18-2010, 10:29 PM

Ok, hopefully a quick question, how do you remove the rotors on the front wheels since they are free moving? Does someone have to hold the brakes?? I know the rears will lock in gear, plus the emergency brake. I was hoping to do this mod myself but am beginning to wonder about that...

thanks!
Michael J.

mtcwby · 01-19-2010, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael_Js

Ok, hopefully a quick question, how do you remove the rotors on the front wheels since they are free moving? Does someone have to hold the brakes?? I know the rears will lock in gear, plus the emergency brake. I was hoping to do this mod myself but am beginning to wonder about that...

thanks!
Michael J.

I just had someone hold a hammer handle across between the wheel studs while I removed the small torx30 headed rotor retaining screw. The Racing Brake rotors don't use the retaining screw so I didn't have to put it back on.
I also used an impact driver on the torx30 screw, so I didn't strip the head out. When you put the bolts back, remember to use some blue loctite on the threads.

Michael_Js · 01-23-2010, 01:55 PM

Ok some help!! How do you remove the brake pads?? I assume you need to remove the 4 E bolts and then take the pads out. This correct? If so, how do you get the last e-bolt out without taking off the connecting brake line?? I'm not changing the brake llines right now as they're not in yet...

Thanks!
Michael J.

ssmike · 01-23-2010, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael_Js

Ok some help!! How do you remove the brake pads?? I assume you need to remove the 4 E bolts and then take the pads out. This correct? If so, how do you get the last e-bolt out without taking off the connecting brake line?? I'm not changing the brake llines right now as they're not in yet...

Thanks!
Michael J.

I have no idea but when you finish please post how you did it. I'll be doing mine in a couple weeks! Thanks!

Michael_Js · 01-23-2010, 06:45 PM

This is what 55Designs said - I will try this later: [Hey there. No here is what you go. There are two retaining pins for the pads with a copper colored spring on each caliper. Take an AWL and hammer and push the pin out from the front, it comes out from the rear of the caliper. DO one pin at a time the spring will snap back. Once you pull the pins out you can wiggle the pads out with your hands or a needle nose plier. its very simple.

then use 18mm socket to remove the caliper bolts to the hub, use wire to tie the caliper up and dont let it hang from the line.

Remove the torx screw i think its a T25 but i dont remember. rotor slids off and you install in the same manner.

Good Luck

SupremacyCustoms · 01-26-2010, 05:06 PM

Here is a pic of there Dimpled drilled!

mtcwby · 01-26-2010, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael_Js

Ok some help!! How do you remove the brake pads?? I assume you need to remove the 4 E bolts and then take the pads out. This correct? If so, how do you get the last e-bolt out without taking off the connecting brake line?? I'm not changing the brake llines right now as they're not in yet...

Thanks!
Michael J.

Here's a pic showing how to remove the pads, no need to remove the caliper.
Just use a 1/8th inch pin punch.
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ssmike · 01-27-2010, 05:55 PM

Thansk for the pic! I'll be doing mine soon!

NEGXXIS · 09-28-2011, 06:49 PM

Here is a FYI on rotor direction. As you can see from this link, the slots can be either direction under certain conditions

http://www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_pro...all_rotors.htm

01-17-2010, 05:38 PM	#31
Michael_Js SoCal C5 Family Member Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Posts: 5,298 View My Garage	Yes, we went through the 140 ft lbs in other threads. It's 140 Thanks for the numbers!! Michael J. __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;

01-18-2010, 10:29 PM	#33
Michael_Js SoCal C5 Family Member Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Posts: 5,298 View My Garage	Ok, hopefully a quick question, how do you remove the rotors on the front wheels since they are free moving? Does someone have to hold the brakes?? I know the rears will lock in gear, plus the emergency brake. I was hoping to do this mod myself but am beginning to wonder about that... thanks! Michael J. __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;

01-23-2010, 01:55 PM	#35
Michael_Js SoCal C5 Family Member Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Posts: 5,298 View My Garage	Ok some help!! How do you remove the brake pads?? I assume you need to remove the 4 E bolts and then take the pads out. This correct? If so, how do you get the last e-bolt out without taking off the connecting brake line?? I'm not changing the brake llines right now as they're not in yet... Thanks! Michael J. __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;

01-23-2010, 06:45 PM	#37
Michael_Js SoCal C5 Family Member Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Posts: 5,298 View My Garage	This is what 55Designs said - I will try this later: [Hey there. No here is what you go. There are two retaining pins for the pads with a copper colored spring on each caliper. Take an AWL and hammer and push the pin out from the front, it comes out from the rear of the caliper. DO one pin at a time the spring will snap back. Once you pull the pins out you can wiggle the pads out with your hands or a needle nose plier. its very simple. then use 18mm socket to remove the caliper bolts to the hub, use wire to tie the caliper up and dont let it hang from the line. Remove the torx screw i think its a T25 but i dont remember. rotor slids off and you install in the same manner. Good Luck __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;

09-28-2011, 06:49 PM	#41
NEGXXIS Drives: 2019 Camaro SS A10 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tempe, Arizona Posts: 1,062 View My Garage	Here is a FYI on rotor direction. As you can see from this link, the slots can be either direction under certain conditions http://www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_pro...all_rotors.htm __________________ 2020 Range Rover Sport HSE P525 Supercharged 5.0 - Firenze Red - 9012 wheels SOLD 2019 Camaro SS -Wrapped in Matte Magnectic Black - Anderson Carbon Hood and Rear Spoiler – Ikon front spoiler – OEM ZL1 Side Rockers - ZL1 Addons Diffuser - BMR 1.0” Lowering Springs - MRR 228 Wheels 20x10 and 20x11 RIP 2016 Camaro SS https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565453 SOLD 2010 Camaro SS Featured in GM High Tech Performance and Camaro Now Magazines - http://www.superchevy.com/features/g...of-perfection/

01-26-2010, 05:06 PM	#38
SupremacyCustoms Drives: black 2010 2ss/rs camaro Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Rockland NY Posts: 739	Here is a pic of there Dimpled drilled!

01-27-2010, 05:55 PM	#40
ssmike BL1ZZRD Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Buffalo, NY Posts: 7,841	Thansk for the pic! I'll be doing mine soon!

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