DIY - ABL using EL wire, and 3/16" tube

[TAG UR IT]

OH! MAKE SURE that if you are doing this mod AND IF you pull off the backer, WHILE THE BACKER IS OFF, use a dremel or other tool to shave down the plastic tabs on the backer towards the top by where you sanded. Here's an example of what I mean.

Look to the left of the clip...the one inch plastic tab type thing...

Right where my pinkie finger is...you'll see that little tab. Once you pull it off, you'll see about 4 of those tabs ranging in different sizes. Shave them all down to be smooth. If not, you are going to get shadows from your El Wire.


Also, NO HOT GLUE ABOVE THE ACRYLIC TUBE!!!! That will also create shadows. You want the blue to be PERFECT. I screwed this up (as you can see in the above picture) had to pull it off, and remove the top hot glue. I even had to shave off the ends of the acrylic tubes to make it better. But, all perfect now.

[Mindz]

So ummmmm Tag.......buddy......How much to ship you my inserts, both ways, and your labor cost? =P

[TAG UR IT]

dash, doors, or both? and what did you have in mind?

[coolcamaroZ28]

Wow guys, lookin' great! I so badly want to do this mod, but didn't find the ABL plug in it's typical location above the fusebox in my later-build 2SS. Well, I finally got the nerve to remove the speedo cluster tonight, hoping that as others have speculated that the secondary plug could be hidden back there, but unfortunately, it is missing too! Would anyone be willing to back-track their ABL plugs to see where they originate from or happen to know what wires control the door ABL? I figured I might be able to wire tap the one going to the driver's or passenger side door? I know someone had said in previous posts that the colors were black and purple, but there's a ton of wires in that harness and it would be my luck to go and hit the wrong one! Any suggestions, or do I have no option for dash ABL from here?!?!? THANKS!!

[TAG UR IT]

Straight from Oshawa....no more plugs on the cars coming out of the factory...not in the fuse area and not behind the gauges. I suppose that if it's not being used and it costs $$ to make, those bean counters want a .10 cent plug taken out of there (cause you KNOW two wires w/ a female connector ain't no $15 to add!).

I took off my fuse panel to try and follow the wire. It looks like it goes right into the same harness as the plug behind the speedo. Honestly, I don't want to strip all the wrap off the harness just yet. ...and I FINALLY got everything back in there.... Maybe someone else has figured it out? All you need, as you know, is to find that basic wire that lights up the lights for the speedo or other interior lights. I'm wondering how I can find out which ones and how to do it...


I'm finally moving on to the doors. I'm going to paint the passenger side door insert tomorrow and will have to completely sand, buff, polish (all over again) the driver side insert. And, if I can get both of them done tomorrow (which ain't happen'in), then hopefully I can put them in. I might have to wait till Wed. The door ABL looks good through the already painted right blue panel. With El Wire, it would barely be seen. But, the light stick is a bit brighter.

[skuttduck]

Originally Posted by coolcamaroZ28

Wow guys, lookin' great! I so badly want to do this mod, but didn't find the ABL plug in it's typical location above the fusebox in my later-build 2SS. Well, I finally got the nerve to remove the speedo cluster tonight, hoping that as others have speculated that the secondary plug could be hidden back there, but unfortunately, it is missing too! Would anyone be willing to back-track their ABL plugs to see where they originate from or happen to know what wires control the door ABL? I figured I might be able to wire tap the one going to the driver's or passenger side door? I know someone had said in previous posts that the colors were black and purple, but there's a ton of wires in that harness and it would be my luck to go and hit the wrong one! Any suggestions, or do I have no option for dash ABL from here?!?!? THANKS!!

If I get some time I'll try and pin out the location for people. I have a good method thanks to a test LED light that came with a backup camera that I have on my camry.

If they are still adding ambient lighting to the doors, then this should not be a problem. There is a nice bunch of wires under the passenger side kick panel, and then the wires next to the steering wheel that should carry the ABL signal.

Only difference I could find with the ABL verses the other various dash lights was that when you dim the dash lights all the way down, the ABL goes off. The rest of the lights stay on at their dimmest level.

If you don't want to mess with taking off the gauges and don't care about the lighting in the dash going completely off, my suggestion is to run the ABL light to your center console and tap the yellow wire going to your traction control button.

[Toasty]

Originally Posted by skuttduck

If I get some time I'll try and pin out the location for people. I have a good method thanks to a test LED light that came with a backup camera that I have on my camry.

If they are still adding ambient lighting to the doors, then this should not be a problem. There is a nice bunch of wires under the passenger side kick panel, and then the wires next to the steering wheel that should carry the ABL signal.

Only difference I could find with the ABL verses the other various dash lights was that when you dim the dash lights all the way down, the ABL goes off. The rest of the lights stay on at their dimmest level.

If you don't want to mess with taking off the gauges and don't care about the lighting in the dash going completely off, my suggestion is to run the ABL light to your center console and tap the yellow wire going to your traction control button.

Have you verified that the T/C button is actually a 12v circuit? If you haven't, it may indeed not be 12v...

[skuttduck]

Originally Posted by Toasty

Have you verified that the T/C button is actually a 12v circuit? If you haven't, it may indeed not be 12v...

I have not taken the fluke meter to the yellow wire on the traction control button, to see 100% if it is 12 volts, if that is what you mean.

I have however used the same 12 volt test LED lamp I've used everywhere else to see it give the same brightness on the yellow wire switch. I used this same one on the factory ABL plugs.

[TAG UR IT]

Originally Posted by skuttduck

If I get some time I'll try and pin out the location for people. I have a good method thanks to a test LED light that came with a backup camera that I have on my camry.
Cool deal.
If they are still adding ambient lighting to the doors, then this should not be a problem. There is a nice bunch of wires under the passenger side kick panel, and then the wires next to the steering wheel that should carry the ABL signal.
They are.
Only difference I could find with the ABL verses the other various dash lights was that when you dim the dash lights all the way down, the ABL goes off. The rest of the lights stay on at their dimmest level.

If you don't want to mess with taking off the gauges and don't care about the lighting in the dash going completely off, my suggestion is to run the ABL light to your center console and tap the yellow wire going to your traction control button.

^Not a bad idea. But, if you have door ABL and then go installing dash ABL, that would look odd if you only had the dash on and the doors off. Just my personal opinion...and I know some wouldn't care. But, hey...it's a fix that I'm sure a lot of people would take. Now...if we could only get that outlet next to it to fun full time hot.....while the car is off!

Hopefully, if I get enough time after all the errands we have to do today, I can FINALLY start on my door inserts. Dude...two days off and not a SINGLE FREAKIN' FREE MOMENT. I mean...days off are supposed to be DAYS OFF! UGH!

[skuttduck]

Originally Posted by TAG UR IT

^Not a bad idea. But, if you have door ABL and then go installing dash ABL, that would look odd if you only had the dash on and the doors off. Just my personal opinion...and I know some wouldn't care. But, hey...it's a fix that I'm sure a lot of people would take.
If there is no alternate wire in the kick panels, then I think this would be the way to go. Specially for 1LT 1LS and 1SS

Now...if we could only get that outlet next to it to fun full time hot.....while the car is off! You want the power outlet on all the time while the car is off? Umm.. You do realize the main battery positive cable is inches away from this right? If not, you do now!!

Hopefully, if I get enough time after all the errands we have to do today, I can FINALLY start on my door inserts. Dude...two days off and not a SINGLE FREAKIN' FREE MOMENT. I mean...days off are supposed to be DAYS OFF! UGH!

Hey I keep pinning out wires and looking for stuff to help people. Wierd thing is I like doing that. Luckily I get all my chores done before having fun. I suppose the cold 8 degree weather helps

[skuttduck]

Originally Posted by Toasty

Have you verified that the T/C button is actually a 12v circuit? If you haven't, it may indeed not be 12v...

Because of your post, I decided to take home the fluke meter. It reads 11.9volts. Guess we can't use it

[Toasty]

Originally Posted by skuttduck

Because of your post, I decided to take home the fluke meter. It reads 11.9volts. Guess we can't use it

What I was getting at is that I wasn't sure if the TC switch used 12v(or thereabouts) or if it was more like a 5v reference signal or grounding circuit.

[skuttduck]

Originally Posted by Toasty

What I was getting at is that I wasn't sure if the TC switch used 12v(or thereabouts) or if it was more like a 5v reference signal or grounding circuit.

I was just messing with you, you got me to bring home the fluke meter and check. I wasn't 100% sure, and now the fluke meter confirms it.

Had the light not illuminated similar to the ambient lighting or would have been real dim I would have suspected it wasn't 12 volts.

[Toasty]

Originally Posted by skuttduck

I was just messing with you, you got me to bring home the fluke meter and check. I wasn't 100% sure, and now the fluke meter confirms it.

Had the light not illuminated similar to the ambient lighting or would have been real dim I would have suspected it wasn't 12 volts.

yeah I know, but even so, I wasnt sure if you knew where I was going-- one never can tell what the general might come up with next!