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#44 |
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Petro-sexual
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No synthetic from the factory on 4th. Gens. but I believe SSs and WS6 cars, from SLP, came with Quaker State (either that, or it was an option.) They've been running sythetic in 'Vettes since LT1s if I'm not mistaken, so synthetics can't be that bad... I guess...
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'20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs |
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#46 |
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Petro-sexual
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That's what I was thinking too, but I feel better I have confirmation. I think that speaks well of synthetics too because after all the LT1 intake manifold leaks (even on the LT1 in my '95 Z28) I'd think GM would change it they didn't think it was beneficial. That's one of the reasons I haven't completely bitten on the whole dino'-oil-is-better wagon. I understand you don't really want to switch too late in the engine's life, but that's mostly because synthetic oil is smaller and more uniform in size than dino' oil, therefore more apt to find spots to leak through. As far as protection, it is said by a guy on LS1tech that has tested oil that the oil is good through like 10K miles (or something) but it's more a matter it becomes contaminated with engine debris and chemical contaminants from combustion than it actually breaks down.
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'20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs |
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#47 |
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killer bAnana
Drives: 1985 z28 Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Carson, CA
Posts: 694
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would an engine flush help clear the synth?
![]() u know, just incase
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"Shut your noise tube, Taco Human!" |
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#49 |
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Patiently Waiting...
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it makes sense that way the engine would be in better shape i guarantee a good amount of the people that are buying these cars may not know about the break in period and that could lead to the company being blamed for problems later on....
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![]() One day.... |
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#51 |
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killer bAnana
Drives: 1985 z28 Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Carson, CA
Posts: 694
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they may have their own methods of 'braking the motor in', but IMO theres no way they run it, like you would be driving it, for the first 100s of miles.
its still a good question tho, maybe CamaroScotty could answer this one ?
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"Shut your noise tube, Taco Human!" |
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#52 | |
![]() Drives: 2001 Blk/Blk M6 Camaro SS #899 Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 482
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Quote:
CamaroScotty!!! what you think? |
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#54 |
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killer bAnana
Drives: 1985 z28 Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Carson, CA
Posts: 694
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i think i'll stick to the break-in game plan either way, just to be safe
![]() according to the mototuneusa link above: "the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines." meaning the first 100s of miles...
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"Shut your noise tube, Taco Human!" |
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#55 | |
![]() Drives: 2001 Blk/Blk M6 Camaro SS #899 Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 482
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Quote:
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#56 |
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SOM WS6
Drives: 2002 SOM Trans Am WS6 Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Kinston, NC
Posts: 266
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I believe the engine is broken in before the engine is ever placed in the vehicle like others believe. The manual will still tell you to break the engine in for added insurance I believe.
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