V6 Oil FIlter

[deljaso]

Originally Posted by bkkendrick

it came from the factory with an AC delco filter and good luck on finding one at your local advance or auto zone. I got mine at my local chevy dealer for 6 bucks and i went with mobil 1 full synthetic. I hear the CTS comes from the factory with synthetic and i figured it would be best. Another thing, anyone notice that the oil life meter is a little off? At 3000 miles my meter said i was at 70 something percent. I looked at the manual and it said change oil every 3000 miles and the computer was way off. Can anyone explain that?

I got 5 wix/napa gold filters from fleetfilters.com, delivered for 26.38.
I don't know if wix is better than ac delco, my guess is they're probably about the same. The guys over at www.bobistheoilguy.com like the wix filters.
I'm trying to find a cheap but strong (and high temperature rated) oil filter magnet to see if it collects any metallic debris on the cannister. There's no way I'm paying $40-60 for one of those "filtermagnets".

[OUR72GTO]

Did my oil today and it is very easy. I put the new filter in the same way the OE came out ...print side up.

Used a white pail and will check the old oil for any debris. I used 1/4 qt of new oil and let it run thru to push any crap off the bottom of the pan.

There was no bits in the old filter.

BTW ...when you go to start the engine and check the level the hood must be closed or the engine will not start. It is a good way to crank up the oil pressure before you fire the cylinders.

[BigBOSS]

Originally Posted by deljaso

I got 5 wix/napa gold filters from fleetfilters.com, delivered for 26.38.
I don't know if wix is better than ac delco, my guess is they're probably about the same. The guys over at www.bobistheoilguy.com like the wix filters.
I'm trying to find a cheap but strong (and high temperature rated) oil filter magnet to see if it collects any metallic debris on the cannister. There's no way I'm paying $40-60 for one of those "filtermagnets".

Isn't the entire engine made of aluminum meaning the magnet would do nothing?

[OUR72GTO]

Bearings,crank and rods are steel.

[97one]

Originally Posted by BigBOSS

Isn't the entire engine made of aluminum meaning the magnet would do nothing?

NO!!!.......There are a LOT of steel parts in the eng.
Did you ever here of aluminum piston rings or cylinder sleeves made of aluminum.......??
Too many steel parts to list.

[deljaso]

Originally Posted by BigBOSS

Isn't the entire engine made of aluminum meaning the magnet would do nothing?

It's a good point -- I just tried a kitchen magnet on the oil filter cannister, and it is aluminum. Unless I want to hold the magnet on there with duct tape or something, I'm out of luck

[traip93]

do you need a special head to fit in the socket?

[BigBOSS]

Originally Posted by deljaso

It's a good point -- I just tried a kitchen magnet on the oil filter cannister, and it is aluminum. Unless I want to hold the magnet on there with duct tape or something, I'm out of luck

[glambert1]

the filter itself will remove more debris than any magnet would if there is a steel piece in the oil the filter will remove it so the magnet is really not neccessary, plus I think a bunch of stuff could accumulate and then break free

[PieNsky]

Originally Posted by 97one

NO!!!.......There are a LOT of steel parts in the eng.
Did you ever here of aluminum piston rings or cylinder sleeves made of aluminum.......??
Too many steel parts to list.

Oh man, I can still hear my Dad bad mouth the Vega engine engineers
I don't know when they changed it, the first Vegas cylinder walls wore through right into the aluminum block.

[HaveBlue]

If you compare the country of origin, you'll find most of those filters come from the same place.

[ninety6]

Originally Posted by LS/V6

Just remeber when you change your oil to open the oil filter canister first before you undo the plug. Reason being is that the canister does hold a little oil in the canister, so if you drain the oil then the filter and put the 6 quartes in you'll be a little over.

are you saying remove the canister as the first step (seems like this would be messy if you did it first!?)

I haven't done it yet -- but i was thinking I would do this:

1. Remove Drain bolt from oil pain
2. When thats mostly done draining, remove canister/filter
3. when draining complete, reinstall filter/canister
4. reinstall drain bolt/tighten
5. fill with oil

3 and 4 being interchangeable steps.

Are you suggesting that I shouldn't do it in this order? or just suggesting that you shouldn't put the drain bolt back IN until you've removed the canister?

Also, whats the size socket/wrench do i need for this?

Thanks!

[67 Convertible]

Originally Posted by ninety6

are you saying remove the canister as the first step (seems like this would be messy if you did it first!?)

I haven't done it yet -- but i was thinking I would do this:

1. Remove Drain bolt from oil pain
2. When thats mostly done draining, remove canister/filter
3. when draining complete, reinstall filter/canister
4. reinstall drain bolt/tighten
5. fill with oil

3 and 4 being interchangeable steps.

Are you suggesting that I shouldn't do it in this order? or just suggesting that you shouldn't put the drain bolt back IN until you've removed the canister?

Also, whats the size socket/wrench do i need for this?

Thanks!

Just make sure you pull the canister cap off before you put the drain plug back in. If not, you may get a little back pressure causing the canister to hold some dirty oil.

[faninc]

anyone know the size of the socket you need for the large oil filter nut on V6 cannister? I want to buy one instead of using the large adjustable...thanks