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Old 01-06-2010, 03:15 PM   #15
CRZ
 
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Upon further review, I gave faulty information.

I don't have the BA system, mine's bone stock in my 1LT/RS.

So I imagine I'd need to add a second amp into the shopping cart, eh?
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Old 01-06-2010, 03:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRZ View Post
Upon further review, I gave faulty information.

I don't have the BA system, mine's bone stock in my 1LT/RS.

So I imagine I'd need to add a second amp into the shopping cart, eh?
You can still get by with a single 4-channel amp, because it is most important to power the doors for your front soundstage and of course the sub needs power. You can still use the factory rear deck speakers for fill and add high pass filters to them.

This biggest difference with the base level system is that you have no low level wires to tap into so you will need to purchase line output converters (LOC) to get the RCA connections to the new amp. I am not sure if the base level system sends the wiring to the trunk either, so you may need to run the RCAs from the front to the amp and also run new speaker wire to the doors. I have the BA system, so I have no firsthand knowledge of the locations for your wiring, but the wiring diagrams can be found here: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33592. The base level system is identified as UQ3 in the drawings and the BA system is UQA.
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Old 01-06-2010, 03:56 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by RandyB View Post
You can still get by with a single 4-channel amp, because it is most important to power the doors for your front soundstage and of course the sub needs power. You can still use the factory rear deck speakers for fill and add high pass filters to them.

This biggest difference with the base level system is that you have no low level wires to tap into so you will need to purchase line output converters (LOC) to get the RCA connections to the new amp. I am not sure if the base level system sends the wiring to the truck either, so you may need to run the RCAs from the front to the amp and also run new speaker wire to the doors. I have the BA system, so I have no firsthand knowledge of the locations for your wiring, but the wiring diagrams can be found here: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33592. Your system is identified as UQ3 in the drawings.
Much appreciated.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:11 PM   #18
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When you set up an audio system in a car you need to outline what you want from it. Starting with what music you like and what you like about it . For example hip-hop and rock strong bass to midbass. Jazz or accoustical you might want strong midbass and midrange. It is hard to design something that fits all the music perfectly. Just because the music is loud does not mean it is clean or pleasing to listen to. Unless you are of the opinion that "trunk rattle" constitutes quality audio then setting up a system takes work.

I would start with what lacks in the music that you like on your system. More bass then start by adding depth with a well designed sub tuned for you. You will need the enclosure and amp. You don't "need" alot just enough that when you add to it later then the bass won't get lost again. The amp should be clean and the sub woofer needs to efficent , that costs money. Next buy a another clean 2-channel amp and bring up the midbass and midrange with the original speakers. Tune that then go from there to replacing the rear speakers. Work your way forward as you can afford it. But research before you buy and spend wisely. Don't get cought up in the hype bigger is better. You have a small area in the cabin so it does not require much clean music to deafen you. Or for that matter distorted crap to ruin good music and hearing.
Just my opinion
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Old 01-07-2010, 02:00 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeywrenching View Post
When you set up an audio system in a car you need to outline what you want from it. Starting with what music you like and what you like about it . For example hip-hop and rock strong bass to midbass. Jazz or accoustical you might want strong midbass and midrange. It is hard to design something that fits all the music perfectly. Just because the music is loud does not mean it is clean or pleasing to listen to. Unless you are of the opinion that "trunk rattle" constitutes quality audio then setting up a system takes work.

I would start with what lacks in the music that you like on your system. More bass then start by adding depth with a well designed sub tuned for you. You will need the enclosure and amp. You don't "need" alot just enough that when you add to it later then the bass won't get lost again. The amp should be clean and the sub woofer needs to efficent , that costs money. Next buy a another clean 2-channel amp and bring up the midbass and midrange with the original speakers. Tune that then go from there to replacing the rear speakers. Work your way forward as you can afford it. But research before you buy and spend wisely. Don't get cought up in the hype bigger is better. You have a small area in the cabin so it does not require much clean music to deafen you. Or for that matter distorted crap to ruin good music and hearing.
Just my opinion

This is my problem, i want a powerful balanced system with 0 distortion. having a sub muffled in the trunk seems like it would take away from the clarity. has anyone cut a port into the rear deck?


anyone ever use on of these?http://cgi.ebay.com/C2K-4-0X-ZAPCO-N...item1c0ef7659c
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Old 01-07-2010, 08:19 AM   #20
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This is my problem, i want a powerful balanced system with 0 distortion. having a sub muffled in the trunk seems like it would take away from the clarity. has anyone cut a port into the rear deck?
Mounting the sub in the trunk does not take away from the clarity. The sub should only be used for frequencies below 100Hz. These freqs are very wide and omni-directional. This is why many excellent home theater systems or stereo systems have a single sub; the low frequencies spread out so much that one cannot detect which channel they are coming from anyway. High frequencies are very directional and must be positioned properly for imaging. Low frequencies also pass through objects (like the back seat) effortlessly, while high frequencies bounce off of objects. If you stand outside a vehicle with the stereo blasting, you can easily hear the bass, but it is only when you open the door or window that the high freqs come screaming out.

A poorly tuned system will sound like you have a big woofer in your trunk, but by properly tuning the crossovers, you can move the bass forward into the soundstage so the bass will sound like it is coming from under the seats or the dash.
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:20 AM   #21
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My main issue with the BA system is the lack of base. And I definitely do not want a trunk rattling system. Ideas?
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:30 PM   #22
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imo the BA sounds fine, i would add a small sub with enough bass to feel it but not enough to rattle everyones windows (or my trunk for that - nothing worse than a trunk thats louder than your music lul). Just turn the bass down on the headunit and go. Would be pretty inexpensive too. I like some of the stealthy sub boxes people have been making for the camaro - small, out of the way and not in plain sight. Shouldn't cost more than $500 for a decent amp, wiring, and a 10" sub if you can instal yourself. I havent take dug around behind the headunit yet, but once you read up an amp/sub install or DIY once, its pretty much the same for any stereo unit. I installed my own subs/amps/capacitors in my 2 previous cars, one 3 years ago the other back in 2002, but I'm sure the basic electronics are the same :grin:
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Old 04-15-2010, 07:07 PM   #23
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i listened to the JL ZR series speakers and lemme tell ya.. NO THANKS! much rather have the JBL MKII components if im gonna spend that money. But if you wanna go big, do what i did! :-)
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:14 PM   #24
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i listened to the JL ZR series speakers and lemme tell ya.. NO THANKS! much rather have the JBL MKII components if im gonna spend that money. But if you wanna go big, do what i did! :-)
What didnt you like about the ZR, I mean personally I think the tweeter is very bright. But they are awesome speakers if you like your music really loud and clean.

I mean everyone has there personal opinion but any place in SQ competition you said you use JBL you would get laughed out of the place.
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:29 PM   #25
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I'm gonna post my own case here to see what I get out of it.

I too am on a budget. I have no experience installing anything so this will be going to a shop and I'm looking at $500 and below for right now, hopefully adding more in the future. I am the type of person that would rather buy the best of one thing at a time, than a mediocre set.

I generally listen to metal/classic rock and have had no complaints with the stock system. Occasionally I do like to listen to some rap and hip hop. Today I did so and noticed that the bass was not very "clear" at all. I am not a fan of rolling up to the light thumping so loud that everyone gets annoyed, all I want is a good sound, I don't want a lot of rattle.

So my question is how do I improve the bass without going overboard? How much can I do with about $500 or so? I hear that JL is supposedly the best??? Also, I need to keep as much space free as possible in the trunk, so please keep that in mind with suggestions.
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:46 PM   #26
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It sounds like the best thing to do (without showing a brand bias)

1. Replace the front two door speakers with high quality components (they're 6.5's I assume?)
2. Buy a clean aftermarket Amp for those 2 speakers, depending on the speaker's reccomend RMS power and sensitivity anything from 50-125x2 AMP will be fine

3. Most likely also will need a signal processor to clean up the signal.

Should be around $500-$800 and the clarity will be MUCH better. Then add a sub/amp later if there isn't enough bass but with the newfound clarity and rear fill of the 6x9's you'll probably be happy unless you're a bass-head
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Old 04-15-2010, 09:47 PM   #27
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Oh Also replace the center channel and run off the stock amp which I don't know the size...anyone?
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:09 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nalinc23 View Post
It sounds like the best thing to do (without showing a brand bias)

1. Replace the front two door speakers with high quality components (they're 6.5's I assume?)
2. Buy a clean aftermarket Amp for those 2 speakers, depending on the speaker's reccomend RMS power and sensitivity anything from 50-125x2 AMP will be fine

3. Most likely also will need a signal processor to clean up the signal.

Should be around $500-$800 and the clarity will be MUCH better. Then add a sub/amp later if there isn't enough bass but with the newfound clarity and rear fill of the 6x9's you'll probably be happy unless you're a bass-head

Haha if this is a response for me, please show a brand bias I haven't. A clue what to buy
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