my oh my.. L99 burnout with yank torque converter installed

[camaro1]

actually depending on how you set up your tcc , you will not loose any mpg when the tcc is on.

[PatrickfromMD]

Originally Posted by InjectionConnection

We use PRO-TORQUE, its one of the best converters on the market and is very efficent
I have been running a stall conveter in all my auto's for yrs, they make a stick shift guy very unhappy

Are you running a ProTorque in your Camaro as well?

[2010 SSRS]

maybe a future mod for me

[REAPER SS]

My 00 SS use too pull hard as f#$% with the 3200 TCI converter. By far the most bang for your buck on an automatic.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by taz

thanks for all the great info on the Yank 3200. I've got a TVS-2300 s/c installed with cai, kooks headers and corsa exhaust. I have the Fastlane dual pumps on order and awaiting for them to arrive. Once installed, my next upgrade will be the Yank 3200. After that will be an upgraded cam.

My question is once you install the Yank 3200 converter, arent you limited on what cams you can install that will be compatible with the Yank? If so, do you have any recommendations on what cam to purchase?

Will be using the car mainly for street use with some track time. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Mike

That limitation goes either way. A cam will shift the powerband around (depending on how you go) and the two may not compliment each other unless you advise the cam company what your stall is. It doesn't look like you have either, yet, so I'd recommend finding the cam that suits your goals and SC, then match the stall to that combination. You should just be able to give Yank your specs' and they'll advise you on the stall. It's going to be a matter of taste though. See if you can get a ride, or better yet, drive a stalled car to get a feeling (if you haven't already) of what to expect. With good TCC control, one get go relatively aggressive with the stall size. I'd be careful with the STR, though, because if you go higher than stock (I know 4L60Es were like around 1.6 to 1.7 STR), you'll easily blow the tires off, especially because of the blower. The higher the STR, the harder the tires will be hit, and the stickier a tire you'll need. I had a 2.55 STR SS3800 in my 3600 lb. (without me in it) that put down up to almost 370 RWHP, and it would cook the rear tires on a 4-2 downshift at up to 45 MPH. I never even tried a WOT run on the street because it would spin the tires at 45. That STR may help make up for the weight of your car, but Yank can walk you through it too.

Originally Posted by 2010 SSRS

maybe a future mod for me

I'll echo that a converter is the BEST mod' for a slushbox car. My brother's car, putting down 330 RWHP, at 3900 lbs race weight, would run easy 12.4s on DRs in "okay" conditions. I think it would've lost a tenth or two if it were in November round here. With the proper tuning, and cooling, a stall IS THE SINGLE BEST MOD' FOR AN AUTO' CAR, IMVHO. For the money, you won't gain a better improvement, provided the PCM is happy and you've got a big 'ole cooler

Originally Posted by REAPER SS

My 00 SS use too pull hard as f#$% with the 3200 TCI converter. By far the most bang for your buck on an automatic.

SS3800 here and would SO go back if I were getting an auto'.

[RickyTheStorm]

I have a YANK 3200 on mine and love it - glad you love yours!

[StlRomAniaN]

Can someone please explain the difference between YANK's and multi disc converters?

Is there some type of converter that will allow you to drive completely stock with the stock stall AND use the stall (say 3200 RPM) with a flip of a switch? Kind of like launch control? That would be amazing.

Anyone?

[taz]

Thanks everyone. I spoke with a person that builds the Yank coverters and he recommended the SS2800 for me since I have a blower already installed and wont need that much help on the launches. Now time to look for a cam. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Mike

[PatrickfromMD]

Originally Posted by taz

Thanks everyone. I spoke with a person that builds the Yank coverters and he recommended the SS2800 for me since I have a blower already installed and wont need that much help on the launches. Now time to look for a cam. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Mike

I run a ProTorque that stalls around 2600. I'm quite happy, and its very streetable.

[taz]

My YankSS2800 has been shipped and should arrive next week along with with the digital gauges (Boost and Air-Fuel) from Adm Performance, low temp thermostat and a trans cooler. Had to ship back my Fastlane Duel Fuel Pump due to a defect, but once I get everything installed and tuned, will give you guys the update. Will probably get an updated dyno done on the car.

Taz

[StlRomAniaN]

Originally Posted by StlRomAniaN

Can someone please explain the difference between YANK's and multi disc converters?

Is there some type of converter that will allow you to drive completely stock with the stock stall AND use the stall (say 3200 RPM) with a flip of a switch? Kind of like launch control? That would be amazing.

Anyone?

[radz28]

Originally Posted by StlRomAniaN

Can someone please explain the difference between YANK's and multi disc converters?

Is there some type of converter that will allow you to drive completely stock with the stock stall AND use the stall (say 3200 RPM) with a flip of a switch? Kind of like launch control? That would be amazing.

Anyone?

I'll try

Think of a multi-disk converter much like a multi-disc clutch. Typically, one would want a multi-disc converter if they're locking the converter, itself, up under WOT. I don't know about the OEM programming in the 5th Gen., however, my '02 Z28 wouldn't lock-up under WOT, which worked out well because I didn't have to worry about that with the converter I ended-up purchasing (Yank SS3800). Anyways, I believe one could upgrade the Yank to a multi-disc design, but it was a lot more money; I'm sure the Vig' is the same. My point is, that Yank is no different in basic design than any other converter manufacturer.

Regarding turning the converter on-and-off: the answer is kinda' yes and no. It depends on the tuning and how you drive it. As I mentioned earlier, I don't know the converter programming on teh 5th Gen, but my '02 would lock-up on the street like normal under regular driving - no problems at all. However, when driving spirited, and at the track, it wouldn't lock and just allow the engine to operate closer to the best part of it's powerband (assuming the converter is matched correctly to the combination). So, when you drive around town, if you keep your foot out of the gas, if will feel as close to stock as the OEM converter as long as the tune allows for it.

The way it's sounding, it seems like the A6 in this car locks up a lot, and even under WOT. If that's the case, and you go with a single-disc, you're going to have to learn (so-to-speak) how to drive around the converter so you don't abuse it. Multi-disc converters, though more expensive, might alleviate these complications. FWIW - a really efficient converter (like the one I was running) allowed for higher MPH in the 1320' despite never locking; if you get an efficient enough converter, I don't think locking is really necessary. It might be cooler if you want to lock it on the street, but my brother did a lot of that, and he rarely got pulled on my M6 cars that were similarly equipped.

JMVHO.

[SonnyakaPig]

Radz, would you mind explaining what it means when a converter locks and unlocks? I read people talking about it all the time and I just can't deduce what it means.

[camaro1]

Originally Posted by SonnyakaPig

Radz, would you mind explaining what it means when a converter locks and unlocks? I read people talking about it all the time and I just can't deduce what it means.

the torque converter is basically a fluid coupling from the engine to the input shaft of the transmission, there is slipage that is built into the converter, this is what allows an automatic trans to be in gear but able to come to a stop without killing the engine(high stall coverters have more slipage built into the design of the vanes/fins in the converter = more heat)

also inside the converter is a piston assembly and a clutch plate(like a manual trans clutch disk), when the tcc solenoid/ tcm command fluid pressure to the tcc piston in the converter , the clutch plate locks the converter housing directly to the input shaft of the transmission(just like a manual trans car), now you have 0 rpm difference from the engine to the input shaft of the transmission and the converter is no longer slipping or making heat,, the trans runs cooler and you get a more efficient transfer of engine rpm to the trans

the tcc control on the 6l80e is pwm(pulse width modulated) so it can turn on and off at a varying %,, the factory tcc command in the tcm has the converter locked at very low speeds and at wot(which can and does effect performance)