Modifying your Airaid air box

[GearHeadPeter]

Originally Posted by kga10734

I put the IAT back to stock location because I figured if there was more cool air going into the intake it should be OK there and no need to relocate it. Also as posted by JRE, the temps were rising when they had their foot in the gas(accelerating) and the temps would drop when they let off.



I just put the drill bit in the drill and eyeballed my holes.



Last 2 days I have driven home in mid 90's temps and roughly 75% humidity. I drove it hard and when I got home both days I popped the hood right away. The intake tube is definitely cooler then it has been which should be dropping the air temps inside the intake tube while accelerating. The intake tube is warm but no where near as hot as the engine cover. Before, the intake tube was as hot or hotter then the engine cover. You almost couldn't even put your hand on the tube.

I plan on playing around with the idea of a shield this weekend to block off as much of the engine bay from the intake side of the air box to try and get as much cool air from outside the car as possible.

Just a thought for the heat shield try using DynaMat Extreme on the inside of the air box. It is used in the building of older muscle cars to keep heat out and also for sound deadening. Works great on the floor pans of my 65 Mustang GT.

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by kga10734

Anybody that has a Dashhawk and wants to send it to me, I'll pay the shipping charges both ways. I would be more then happy to log the temps and then return it to you. I'm not going to go out and buy one just for this. If not I'll have to wait till another time when it's cooler to go get my car dynoed.

As far as drawing in hot air, my air box seals against the bottom of the hood, and if there is any hot air coming in from the original intake hole and the new ones I added, I plan on making a shield to block the holes off from the engine bay to make sure it is getting fresh air coming in from the front of the car. I don't think that is an issue right now since it is drawing in air from the same fender area as the other intakes.

I just did that. I added 6 more holes in the fendor wall below the negative post, guess I felt that I needed afew more where the air was the coolest!!
I found some abs plastic in the garage and trimmed to pieces,and bolted them on to the forward side of the box wall next to the radiator. It goes forward to the front of the car as far as the air inlet is and down to and following the top contour of the inlet tube itself to hopefully keep any radiator heat from getting in and diluting the cool frontal air into the holes.Also may help direct that air into the holes.
All in all couldn't hurt and I will take some temp readings for any changes.

[ROD1]

Remember this? and peeps thought I was/am short a few bricks when I posted it..

[PieNsky]

What kind of store sells things like that?

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by ROD1

Remember this? and peeps thought I was/am short a few bricks when I posted it..

Rod1, now that is ingenious!! How well did the combo work?

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by blackbee

I just did that. I added 6 more holes in the fendor wall below the negative post, guess I felt that I needed afew more where the air was the coolest!!
I found some abs plastic in the garage and trimmed to pieces,and bolted them on to the forward side of the box wall next to the radiator. It goes forward to the front of the car as far as the air inlet is and down to and following the top contour of the inlet tube itself to hopefully keep any radiator heat from getting in and diluting the cool frontal air into the holes.Also may help direct that air into the holes.
All in all couldn't hurt and I will take some temp readings for any changes.

O.k. I went for a drive to get some air temp readings. Did 20 minutes in town traffic, let the engine idle awhile as I was just seeing how high the water temp would get, then took a 5 mile round trip on the freeway to cool off a bit.
these reading are with a temp reader I got at Pep boys and these readings are only meant to show temps in different areas of the air box, tube ,nole mods and inlet to show the differences to each other today and not cast in stone or anything. Just thought I would share so peeps would have a idea. Just wish I could get real IAT temps with the Airaid hole mod but this will have to do for now.
Air temp 82 degrees, 4:30 p.m. Airaid v2 with holes mod.
Engine cover = 124 deg.
Air tube at maf = 107-110 deg
New holes in front wall of box= 87 deg.
Holes in fender wall of box= 87 deg
Large rect hole, vendor wall adjacent to stock inlest hole= 87 deg
Air filter=87 deg
rect hole in botom of box= 102 deg but hard toread and may be off.
in fact the lower walls in that area same temp or so.May cover up that hole.
box wall near engine, inside=110 deg, 125 outside
back box wall= 107 deg.
fendor wall= 89 deg.
box wall next to rad=100 deg inside, 118 on the outside.
stock inlet tube for air= 107 deg.

Note since I added the "rad wall extension" so hotter air couldn't get to the front inlet holes,the temps are lower at those holes. Before I added the wall extension the air going to those holes in hotter afternoon air was maybe in between the filter temp and the inlet tube temp.

While these will all vary and is only a rough test it does give a idea about whats going on.I only wish I had thought to do this before the mods, but maybe someone else can.What I do like is even at 82 deg air the car's throttle response is still like it was at 72 deg. and close to the feel at 64 deg

Hope this helps everyone

[ROD1]

Originally Posted by blackbee

Rod1, now that is ingenious!! How well did the combo work?

Oddly, it was my only butt dyno claim to date. I almost went and had a dyno done at the request of a Mod, lol. I do however retract any and all past or future butt dynos as being anything more than perception.

[ROD1]

Originally Posted by PieNsky

What kind of store sells things like that?

Wanna buy one? Actually i will ship it free of charge to anyone who will dyno it.

[kga10734]

Originally Posted by GearHeadPeter

Just a thought for the heat shield try using DynaMat Extreme on the inside of the air box. It is used in the building of older muscle cars to keep heat out and also for sound deadening. Works great on the floor pans of my 65 Mustang GT.

We were thinking the same thing. I saw one or 2 of the other brand CAI air boxes had some insulation on the inside of them.

I have some dynomat left over from my trunk install. If the test I'm doing goes well, I'll add it to the inside of the air box and shield I am working on. I picked up some of the self adhesive AC duct insulation to try, but it is no good. The foil doesn't stay stuck on the sticky insulation so the dynomat will work better.

Originally Posted by ROD1

Remember this? and peeps thought I was/am short a few bricks when I posted it..

I remember that post, and yes we thought you were a little nuts. I guess you were a head of the times.

Originally Posted by blackbee

O.k. I went for a drive to get some air temp readings. Did 20 minutes in town traffic, let the engine idle awhile as I was just seeing how high the water temp would get, then took a 5 mile round trip on the freeway to cool off a bit.
these reading are with a temp reader I got at Pep boys and these readings are only meant to show temps in different areas of the air box, tube ,nole mods and inlet to show the differences to each other today and not cast in stone or anything. Just thought I would share so peeps would have a idea. Just wish I could get real IAT temps with the Airaid hole mod but this will have to do for now.
Air temp 82 degrees, 4:30 p.m. Airaid v2 with holes mod.
Engine cover = 124 deg.
Air tube at maf = 107-110 deg
New holes in front wall of box= 87 deg.
Holes in fender wall of box= 87 deg
Large rect hole, vendor wall adjacent to stock inlest hole= 87 deg
Air filter=87 deg
rect hole in botom of box= 102 deg but hard toread and may be off.
in fact the lower walls in that area same temp or so.May cover up that hole.
box wall near engine, inside=110 deg, 125 outside
back box wall= 107 deg.
fendor wall= 89 deg.
box wall next to rad=100 deg inside, 118 on the outside.
stock inlet tube for air= 107 deg.

Note since I added the "rad wall extension" so hotter air couldn't get to the front inlet holes,the temps are lower at those holes. Before I added the wall extension the air going to those holes in hotter afternoon air was maybe in between the filter temp and the inlet tube temp.

While these will all vary and is only a rough test it does give a idea about whats going on.I only wish I had thought to do this before the mods, but maybe someone else can.What I do like is even at 82 deg air the car's throttle response is still like it was at 72 deg. and close to the feel at 64 deg

Hope this helps everyone

Looks like you are getting temps around the air filter and air box close to outside temps now. I know the intake tube is going to show a little higher temp because of the heat of the engine going down into the air tube. We are more concerned about the temps of the air passing through the intake tube which should be close to the same as the temps inside the air box. I'd believe the 127 dg. on that engine cover, that sounds more like the temps I was feeling on my intake tube before I drilled some holes in the air box.


I put together a test shield today. Ran out of day light to give it a drive this evening. Had to get the car cleaned up for a Sunday morning street meet. First I drilled more 1/2" holes in the air box to allow even more cool air in, but I still haven't drilled any holes in the very bottom of the air box. I made a template out of cardboard and the cut out the test shield. I used a piece of sheet aluminum I had laying around. It's not a perfect fit but it is sealed up pretty good so the hot air from the engine bay should be minimal. I used a little bit of self adhesive weather stripping in a few spots at the top and just used pop rivets to hold it to the air box. Slapped a quick coat of paint on the test shield and did the install. I left the stock snorkel tube off this time, I didn't want it sticking up to the front of the car and possibly block any air coming in the area. I now have it blocked off from the hot air coming from the engine bay like all of the other intakes except for the original Injen which sticks down where the washer bottle goes. I should be drawing in air from the front of the car and up from the bottom below the washer bottle, but should be very little if any air coming from the engine bay.

Going to give it a test drive tomorrow and see how things go. If it looks like this is going to work out, I'll go back and take more time to make another shield and do a better job of getting things nice and snug and look good as well. I have to have it look good or I'll just get another CAI. I did kind of rush the first one today so my cuts are raw and the paint looks kind of sh***y you can get an idea of what I'm trying to do here.




















And a nice photo of the cruise missle!

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by ROD1

Oddly, it was my only butt dyno claim to date. I almost went and had a dyno done at the request of a Mod, lol. I do however retract any and all past or future butt dynos as being anything more than perception.

And as they should be! All hail to the mighty butt dyno!

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by kga10734

We were thinking the same thing. I saw one or 2 of the other brand CAI air boxes had some insulation on the inside of them.

I have some dynomat left over from my trunk install. If the test I'm doing goes well, I'll add it to the inside of the air box and shield I am working on. I picked up some of the self adhesive AC duct insulation to try, but it is no good. The foil doesn't stay stuck on the sticky insulation so the dynomat will work better.



I remember that post, and yes we thought you were a little nuts. I guess you were a head of the times.




Looks like you are getting temps around the air filter and air box close to outside temps now. I know the intake tube is going to show a little higher temp because of the heat of the engine going down into the air tube. We are more concerned about the temps of the air passing through the intake tube which should be close to the same as the temps inside the air box. I'd believe the 127 dg. on that engine cover, that sounds more like the temps I was feeling on my intake tube before I drilled some holes in the air box.


I put together a test shield today. Ran out of day light to give it a drive this evening. Had to get the car cleaned up for a Sunday morning street meet. First I drilled more 1/2" holes in the air box to allow even more cool air in, but I still haven't drilled any holes in the very bottom of the air box. I made a template out of cardboard and the cut out the test shield. I used a piece of sheet aluminum I had laying around. It's not a perfect fit but it is sealed up pretty good so the hot air from the engine bay should be minimal. I used a little bit of self adhesive weather stripping in a few spots at the top and just used pop rivets to hold it to the air box. Slapped a quick coat of paint on the test shield and did the install. I left the stock snorkel tube off this time, I didn't want it sticking up to the front of the car and possibly block any air coming in the area. I now have it blocked off from the hot air coming from the engine bay like all of the other intakes except for the original Injen which sticks down where the washer bottle goes. I should be drawing in air from the front of the car and up from the bottom below the washer bottle, but should be very little if any air coming from the engine bay.

Going to give it a test drive tomorrow and see how things go. If it looks like this is going to work out, I'll go back and take more time to make another shield and do a better job of getting things nice and snug and look good as well. I have to have it look good or I'll just get another CAI. I did kind of rush the first one today so my cuts are raw and the paint looks kind of sh***y you can get an idea of what I'm trying to do here.




















And a nice photo of the cruise missle!

Oh no, Am I going to have to take mine off again and add more holes?! We keep this up and swiss cheese wont be even able to compare!
All kidding aside I like the idea and I was thinking the same thing. As nice as it looks I think the other cai's had the right idea by not using a box but leaving it open front and side to get that air. As long as they are sealed everywhere else only cool air should get in.
Hey, don't worry about the looks of the shield, it's an R&D unit right now, besides you should see mine! Does it ever look like a backyard mechanic job!!! But as you it is a test, if it works always can take the time to do it better. by the way mine actually uses the air duct as the lower part of the extension as I had only a pc large enough for the upper half.On the hole in the bottom of the box, I'm not sure how good it is.The air was warmer there and JRE said to put one there, but most likely it all will get cooler as the car is actually moving with the air coming into the bay at a fast clip.
As to the air temps today after I let her sit awhile and drove again the cover and intake tube got both to 148-153 degrees!! AIR IN THE BOX COOLEST WAS AT 100, The water temp had gotten to 226, boy thats crazy but nothing different then my LS1 as chevy seems to use the same perameters on all the cars for the water temps and fan on off times.

Good luck tommorrow and have a great meet! And by the way your car cleans up just fine

[kga10734]

Today was very very hot!

Outside temp = 101dg.
Heat Index = 106dg.
Humidity = 32% which is rare. It's usually more like 70 - 90% humidity
Dew Point = 67

I'm happy to say the car ran like a scalded dog, even in all this heat and after sitting with the engine running building up heat at the lights. The car is running better then it every has since I did these mods to the air box. It has great bottom end tq. and feels like it wants to break the tires loose all the time when taking off. Passing gears are even stronger now as well. I can't wait to see how it runs this Fall in cooler temps. The intake tube is warm to the touch, the engine side of the air box is warm to the touch, but the filter and the rest of the air box was nice and cool, not really any heat at all in those locations.

I have to say for me and what I did is a improvement over what I started with.

[chozn4service]

Originally Posted by PieNsky

What kind of store sells things like that?

Priscilla's and I think Fredericks of Hollywood! =))=))

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by kga10734

Today was very very hot!

Outside temp = 101dg.
Heat Index = 106dg.
Humidity = 32% which is rare. It's usually more like 70 - 90% humidity
Dew Point = 67

I'm happy to say the car ran like a scalded dog, even in all this heat and after sitting with the engine running building up heat at the lights. The car is running better then it every has since I did these mods to the air box. It has great bottom end tq. and feels like it wants to break the tires loose all the time when taking off. Passing gears are even stronger now as well. I can't wait to see how it runs this Fall in cooler temps. The intake tube is warm to the touch, the engine side of the air box is warm to the touch, but the filter and the rest of the air box was nice and cool, not really any heat at all in those locations.

I have to say for me and what I did is a improvement over what I started with.

Oh well, I guess I'm going out to make more holes.
But seriously it looks like they do work! I need just a few more in the front as I closed off the bottom hole, didn't like the warmer air in that area next to the engine. May be cool once you get moving. but maybe not(?)
Today in the a.m. was only 64 out and even at 64, with the blocked off hole,the extra ones in front and my shield she had even better response off the line then before in the same temp.
1. V1 bad and lost torque, no matter what airaid says.
2. stock better then v1
3. v2 better then stock
4. v2 initial holes better then v2
5. v2 more holes and shield better still
All above in regards to tip in response from a light
At 80 in the p.m. still had crisp throttle response, touch the gas and the nose starts to lift up(torque feeling) not like before in stock form where you had to push the gas to get it going.Was that way all weekend 82 out any temp condition weather water temp was 200 or 226. As water temp got hotter performance went down just a bit but I think timing also gets pulled here past a certain temp but not sure.My LS1 timing was pulled at 88 air temp and or 210 water temp, could be same here as all g.m. cars in those days did this.

Glad to see it did well in that hot Texas heat.I wondered what to expect here in ca as we do get into the 90's in Aug/Sept.

Well out to drill more holes, or maybe take off the whole front panel!! Nah, just some holes.It seems you have more out of your mods so far then I do and I have fewer frontal holes,seems to work!