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Old 08-16-2010, 01:23 PM   #4061
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Are you running a full slick?

315/30/18 Hoosier A6 front, 335/30/18 Hoosier A6 rear

they are as close to a slick as you can get...
Class rules say DOT approved street tire (which these fall into).
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Old 08-16-2010, 01:26 PM   #4062
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Originally Posted by 600hp-lpe View Post
315/30/18 Hoosier A6 front, 335/30/18 Hoosier A6 rear

they are as close to a slick as you can get...
Class rules say DOT approved street tire (which these fall into).
They are goo tires. Have you used a pryometer to see what you tire temps are before and after a run?

Can you post a picture of your front brake rotors and calipers?

Whejn you ran all those lapts last week more or less back to back, did your brakes get better as they got hot or did your experience fade?
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:59 PM   #4063
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
They are goo tires. Have you used a pryometer to see what you tire temps are before and after a run?

Can you post a picture of your front brake rotors and calipers?

Whejn you ran all those lapts last week more or less back to back, did your brakes get better as they got hot or did your experience fade?
I don't have a pyrometer yet. so no tire temps... I am using the tires to the outside edge where it should be. The rubber on the tread is gumming up like it should across the face of the tire. Inside edge (1/2") into the roll is unused.

I will post a picture of my brakes after I clean off the Camera. It is full of video from runs on Saturday and Sunday.

I have upgraded the front rotors and pads. Rear setup is still all stock.
I didn't experience any brake fade. Brakes stayed pretty consistent all weekend.

I am running the Racing brake rotors in the front with RB's ET800 pads here is a link to the brake pads.
http://www.racingbrake.com/CAMARO_SS...1001-38-03.htm

On Saturday I ran 3-5 laps back to back, and then would drive about 1 mile for a cool down around the facility to let the pads and rotors expel heat. They were heated to the point of the pads/rotors smoking and blue on the surface of the rotors (fronts only) after a hot lap session. I did 3 sets of 3-5 laps, followed by a cool down drive (at maybe 15 mph) after each 3-5 laps. after 15 laps, I would let the car cool down for 40 minutes plus before the next session.

Looking at the rotors now, they don't show any sign of being run hot.
There is no sign of brakes being heated after laps on Sunday. 3 laps (1 mile long course) with 10 minutes between each for the morning, 2 laps in the afternoon with 20 minutes between each.
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Old 08-16-2010, 03:08 PM   #4064
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Originally Posted by 600hp-lpe View Post
I don't have a pyrometer yet. so no tire temps... I am using the tires to the outside edge where it should be. The rubber on the tread is gumming up like it should across the face of the tire. Inside edge (1/2") into the roll is unused.

I will post a picture of my brakes after I clean off the Camera. It is full of video from runs on Saturday and Sunday.

I have upgraded the front rotors and pads. Rear setup is still all stock.
I didn't experience any brake fade. Brakes stayed pretty consistent all weekend.

I am running the Racing brake rotors in the front with RB's ET800 pads here is a link to the brake pads.
http://www.racingbrake.com/CAMARO_SS...1001-38-03.htm

On Saturday I ran 3-5 laps back to back, and then would drive about 1 mile for a cool down around the facility to let the pads and rotors expel heat. They were heated to the point of the pads/rotors smoking and blue on the surface of the rotors (fronts only) after a hot lap session. I did 3 sets of 3-5 laps, followed by a cool down drive (at maybe 15 mph) after each 3-5 laps. after 15 laps, I would let the car cool down for 40 minutes plus before the next session.

Looking at the rotors now, they don't show any sign of being run hot.
There is no sign of brakes being heated after laps on Sunday. 3 laps (1 mile long course) with 10 minutes between each for the morning, 2 laps in the afternoon with 20 minutes between each.
I am trying to determine is we are getting the most out of what we have. If the brakes take a lap or two be hot enough to work then we could gain with a pad that bites harder when cold. The same is true of the tires. In the heat of the summer we should have no problems getting them hot enough to stick, but if they are not hot enough we need to use tire warmers. We want to track tire pressures as well. Where are they when you start and when you finish. The first goal is the podium. The next goal is world domination!
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Old 08-16-2010, 03:25 PM   #4065
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
I am trying to determine is we are getting the most out of what we have. If the brakes take a lap or two be hot enough to work then we could gain with a pad that bites harder when cold. The same is true of the tires. In the heat of the summer we should have no problems getting them hot enough to stick, but if they are not hot enough we need to use tire warmers. We want to track tire pressures as well. Where are they when you start and when you finish. The first goal is the podium. The next goal is world domination!

The tires and brakes work awesome from the first lap to the last. The last session I did on saturday's test and tune had the front tires sliding as they felt greasy from all the heat the were still carrying.

Tire warmers are illegal in SOLO competition for all classes...

I run 34 Lbs pressure in front, 30 in the rear. after the first lap, I bleed out 3 1/2 lbs front, 3 lbs rear to get back to 34F/30R. after lap 2, it's about 1/2 lb less air out of each tire to maintain the 34F/30R balance.

The A6 tires heat up pretty quickly. 1st run I drive through the course to study the line and determine car placement, speed through each section, identify the tricky parts, and get the car and tires/brakes up to temp. The main goal for the first lap is to complete the course clean.

Run 2 and 3 are building speed and trying to run consistently, constantly improving on the previous lap.

Runs 3 - 6 (afternoon session) are as fast as possible to get a good time.
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Old 08-16-2010, 03:54 PM   #4066
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The sun is legal. Make sure you bake both sides equally. You have the tires right. lets collect some brake temps.
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:58 PM   #4067
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Hey all,
Well I got up to the 1/4 mi strip for some fun last night. They had a points race the night before and had the track clean I slipped the owner a Bengie to put down 30' of VHT, and it was hooking!!!!!!
I started off easy and knocked out a 12.9 was dropping right at .1 every run. Ended up with a nights best of 12.7 and had to stop. Buddy in his 2010 camaro just got a set of nitto dr's and thought it would be a good thing to launch his first run at 4500 rpms Yep dropped his drive shaft right there on the line. I had to go and get the tow rig to get his car safe, and it cut my night short on the track but 12:45am playing tow truck driver.
Oh well he is a good guy and I know he would return the favor anytime.
I think I could have gotten a 12.2 or better as I was only up to 1800 rpms on the launch when I got the 12.7. I need to call Graham this week as I am getting some engine codes, an the car is not 100%, I think I can bust into the 11's when we get it all worked out.

Hey 600 stick with Pete and he will get those times down. Sounds like you had fun, are'nt these cars great?
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:15 AM   #4068
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It's so nice to see everyone is having fun with their awesome cars!
600, great work out there. Very interesting tips you and Pete are passing back and forth. You should post up some more video if you get a chance.

MWS, glad to see you hooking up. I need to get my car back out to the 1/4 mile now that I have been honing in my launches in the neighborhood. I had some fun Friday night, but not in MY car. They had races and drift night out at the Sandia Motorsports. I went out as a spectator, but Jim gave me a ride in his RX-7 drift car that is all set up for drifting and has and LS-2 corvette engine in it. It was the most incredible ride I've ever experienced. When we were coming around onto the straightaway in front of the stands he did two 360's, and then the engine stalled, but he got it started back up and did another 360 followed by an all out tire smoking drift around the turn of the large oval. It was such a rush!
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:14 PM   #4069
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Yup... gotta LOVE long smoky burnouts... straight or otherwise...

Video is coming.. havn't had a break long enough from work to download the video from the camera. it's probably going to take 3+ hours over USB port to get the video onto a computer for editing out the non driving stuff.
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:15 PM   #4070
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2010 - Sounds like you had a good time out drifting!!

MWS - Nice to hear you are getting that beast to hook up. You would have definately done better as the night went on!!

600 - It looks like you are doing well and having a great time at the track. Good luck in getting it dialed in even more!!

I have to take a look at my car yet and see why I am going through half shafts and boots. The guys at the DSS think that my upper control arms may be contacting the boots on the track under high speeds through the corners with my car being lowered. I may need to look at how I have the coilovers set up, so I don't keep having problems. There are 2 turns on the track that I am coming through about 90 - 100mph and and it seems as the car squats through these corners that I am getting some noise from the rear. I am still waiting to get my new right rear half shaft from the DSS, so I can get back on the road!! I may need to get a hold of Pete and see where the closest Authorized Pedder's installer is, so I can get my car set up right.
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Old 08-17-2010, 03:48 PM   #4071
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Originally Posted by Speed74SS View Post
I have to take a look at my car yet and see why I am going through half shafts and boots. The guys at the DSS think that my upper control arms may be contacting the boots on the track under high speeds through the corners with my car being lowered. I may need to look at how I have the coilovers set up, so I don't keep having problems. There are 2 turns on the track that I am coming through about 90 - 100mph and and it seems as the car squats through these corners that I am getting some noise from the rear. I am still waiting to get my new right rear half shaft from the DSS, so I can get back on the road!! I may need to get a hold of Pete and see where the closest Authorized Pedder's installer is, so I can get my car set up right.
Not quite sure what's going on, but already commented on this and someone's deleting my posts again (feeling like an outlaw that never had a gun!)

Speed - you might want to check your upper control arm above the CV shaft for signs of the HD CV shaft bolts hitting. You'll see a "V" notch about 3/16" if like mine. Mine hit once while entering a parking lot with noticable dip at very low speed - but rear was lowered ~1 1/4", Pfadt coilovers were set at 12, and I had 2 adult passengers. The "V" notch was just inboard from the CV shaft bolts and on the trailing edge. It sounded as if the car bottomed out when it happened (both sides). Didn't seem to hurt anything other than the small "V" - but raised car up 1/2" and hasn't happened since. Also, I can't help but wonder if the increased angle on the CV shaft from lowering, could possibly put more stress on the CV shaft. I would ask you what code you set off, but maybe that's why the post was deleted??? But please PM me - curious.
(moderators....if I'm doing something wrong, please PM me!)
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:02 PM   #4072
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I thought I had responded to Speed74SS before. To check for HD shaft end clearance you need a rail style lift, 2" nylon ratcheting strap and something like an old torsion bar to span the lift. Secure the car and raise the lift. Run the nylon strap through an appropriately strong section of the IRS sub-frame and around the torsion bar. ratchet the car down until you can't. You'll find the problem.
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:13 PM   #4073
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
I thought I had responded to Speed74SS before. To check for HD shaft end clearance you need a rail style lift, 2" nylon ratcheting strap and something like an old torsion bar to span the lift. Secure the car and raise the lift. Run the nylon strap through an appropriately strong section of the IRS sub-frame and around the torsion bar. ratchet the car down until you can't. You'll find the problem.
Hmmmm, maybe we have a Camaro5 site problem if you're having posts vanish too? This has happened 5-6 times in the past couple of months for me. A few posted to pedders on alignment stuff dissappeared too.

Back to our normally scheduled LINGENFELTER program folks........
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:18 PM   #4074
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Hmmmm, maybe we have a Camaro5 site problem if you're having posts vanish too? This has happened 5-6 times in the past couple of months for me. A few posted to pedders on alignment stuff dissappeared too.

Back to our normally scheduled LINGENFELTER program folks........
Odd. If I have missed some of your questions or thoughts please post them again so I can reply.
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