BEWARE CLEAR BRA's...

[Camaro8810]

Originally Posted by htp autoworks

You wax the clear bra just as you would the paint. In fact you maintain the bra just as the paint. I give a bottle of sealant out with every install now so that my clients have the proper product to take care of it. I have seen film that was on cars well over 5 years that looked brand new. The two people quoted at the beginning of this thread have very little experience in clear bras... I can tell by their statements. And mostbody shop guys I have ran into over the years are against clear bras because it is going to cut down on their business. Clear bra = fewer resprays because the paint willl stay prefect. There is no need to clay bar the area of the car since the paint is protected... the rest of the car clay as normal. As far as shine goes both will hold the same shine... just maintain them as you normally would.

I am not trying to call out the guy who started this thread but it was very poorly done. Just because Joe Schmoe down here at such and such palce doesnt know much abotu them... so in turn doesnt recommend them he shouldnt start an entire thread putting them down especially since there are numerous threads praising them in the same forum. Maybe do some research next timebefore making a statement like that. And if your buddy at Clear View needs some advice tell him to contact me. I will be happy to point him in the right direction since it seems he doesnt have ANY experience in he industry.

+1 Well stated sir

[formare]

Originally Posted by htp autoworks

You wax the clear bra just as you would the paint. In fact you maintain the bra just as the paint. I give a bottle of sealant out with every install now so that my clients have the proper product to take care of it. I have seen film that was on cars well over 5 years that looked brand new. The two people quoted at the beginning of this thread have very little experience in clear bras... I can tell by their statements. And mostbody shop guys I have ran into over the years are against clear bras because it is going to cut down on their business. Clear bra = fewer resprays because the paint willl stay prefect. There is no need to clay bar the area of the car since the paint is protected... the rest of the car clay as normal. As far as shine goes both will hold the same shine... just maintain them as you normally would.

I am not trying to call out the guy who started this thread but it was very poorly done. Just because Joe Schmoe down here at such and such palce doesnt know much abotu them... so in turn doesnt recommend them he shouldnt start an entire thread putting them down especially since there are numerous threads praising them in the same forum. Maybe do some research next timebefore making a statement like that. And if your buddy at Clear View needs some advice tell him to contact me. I will be happy to point him in the right direction since it seems he doesnt have ANY experience in he industry.

+2

[KIZE]

I'm sure they need to be replaced eventually. Maybe after 5 or 7 years. But they're still a lot better than dealing with paint chips.

[pnyklr]

What is the recommended time frame to let the paint cure on a newly purchased Camaro before installing a clear bra?

-Funk

[htp autoworks]

If its factory paint you are good to go as soon as you get the vehicle. Aftermarket paint jobs vary depending on if the paint was baked to speed up the curing process. Usually 30 days is the rule of thumb.

[2010 2-Tone]

To all of those that are on the fence about the 3M clear bra, I say get it and you won't be disappointed. The single best mod that I have done!!!

[PHEOX]

What do you do about scratches and swirls in the bra? My Dad's is marred all over and I don't know what to do when I begin PC'ing the paint.

[formare]

The clear film should be treated exactly the way you treat the paint.

[FloydSummerOf68]

Originally Posted by PHEOX

What do you do about scratches and swirls in the bra? My Dad's is marred all over and I don't know what to do when I begin PC'ing the paint.

Start with a very light polish on a finishing pad to start and then move up in abrasiveness as necessary to clean it up.

You can also clay the area and be sure to clay around the edges...the edges tend to get a dirt buildup and cause it to be more apparent that it is there on the car.

[Queen Bee]

Just wanted to put my $.02 in. I have had experience w/the clear bras for the last 7 years. I have it on my Suburban, my Avalanche and just had it put on my brand new 10 Rally Yellow SS. I live in SW FL which is probably as brutal as far as SUN & bug damage as you can get...we get LOVE BUGS 2 months out of the year that is so damaging to paint I can't even tell you and not to mention millions of other bugs that look almost prehistoric. Anyway, I personally don't care for the 3M, I have actually seen some on friends that yellowed after a few years, mine however is called Clear Shield and it's never yellowed/tore or anything. I can't always wash the bugs off immediately when love bugs are in season because its a joke trying to keep them off and I don't worry about it because I don't have to w/my clear shield. I have it on the hood/entire front bumper/rocker panels and side mirrors...my 4 year old suburban still looks brand new. It's rather pricey, I paid $700 for the Suburban and just paid $800 for the camaro due to all the holes and curves, but I don't regret it I feel it's an investment and makes my life a little easier.

So check into it for yourself, but I'm sure sold on it.

[Queen Bee]

Oops, almost forgot, I have absolutely no swirl marks or anything on my clear shield and you really have to look very closely to even notice it on any of my vehicles, I actually had someone say you really need to wash those bugs off of your truck or it's gonna peel the paint and I revealed to them why I wasn't worried and they were like, WOW, I didn't even notice. So anyway, that's all.

[htp autoworks]

Originally Posted by FloydSummerOf68

Start with a very light polish on a finishing pad to start and then move up in abrasiveness as necessary to clean it up.

You can also clay the area and be sure to clay around the edges...the edges tend to get a dirt buildup and cause it to be more apparent that it is there on the car.

Pheox I HIGHLY recommend you talk to your installer and get thei advice. Floyd different materials react differently to polishing. I would not polish every film out there.... and clay barring the edges of the film is a no no. I install VentureShield and there is no way I would allow someone to just start polishing the film. 3M can be treated that way and maybe some of the other brands, but it is best to get the advice of the installer who knows (at least they should) how to maintain the film. If you clay bar the edges of the film you can easily get clay under the edge of the film and it will ruin it. It is best to take an old worn out soft bristol tooth brush and lightly clean the dirt from the edge.... or use a Qtip. Clay bars are designed to lift contaminates from the paint... not relaly made for use on film.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by Dragoneye

I've read that this used to be an issue with older films...but not current ones.

I know some people here have put the clear bras on their cars straight out a year ago...it'll be interesting to watch and see if they discolor or not in a few years.

I 100% agree. This was a issue with the cheap knock off brands too. There are no issues whatsoever with today's quality bras.

Originally Posted by htp autoworks

Pheox I HIGHLY recommend you talk to your installer and get thei advice. Floyd different materials react differently to polishing. I would not polish every film out there.... and clay barring the edges of the film is a no no. I install VentureShield and there is no way I would allow someone to just start polishing the film. 3M can be treated that way and maybe some of the other brands, but it is best to get the advice of the installer who knows (at least they should) how to maintain the film. If you clay bar the edges of the film you can easily get clay under the edge of the film and it will ruin it. It is best to take an old worn out soft bristol tooth brush and lightly clean the dirt from the edge.... or use a Qtip. Clay bars are designed to lift contaminates from the paint... not relaly made for use on film.

I agree.

[FloydSummerOf68]

Perhaps aftermarket film is different?

I know many detailers who will use the clay to "dab" the edges of stock film on 150k+ cars without ever having a problem and it makes them nearly invisible once you remove everything. A soft brissle brush can only do so much and quickly reaches it's limits.