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#15 | |
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FASTER!
Drives: Challenger Hellcat, 2SS Camaro Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Middle Tennessee
Posts: 2,244
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I'll be able to determine more when I see one in person, but I suspect it'll be very easy to make a home made CAI that will look as good or better than an aftermarket system for 1/4 the price. Here's the one I made for the 4Runner. Added about 10 RWHP on the dyno and this is just a 3.4L V6 motor. Removed intake muffler and replaced with stainless tubing: ![]() Opened front of air box behind head light. Added a boat deck plate in the event I needed to close it for off roading: ![]() Dyno Result and this was Naturally Aspirated (before I added the SC) so now it's probably adding more than 10HP. ![]() Good thinking ahead there man. |
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#16 | |
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Petro-sexual
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![]() ![]() That's good stuff right there. Honestly, I had done something similar on my '93 4Runner. Shoot, I probably read a post by you or something, LOL. I pretty much followed exaclty what you do did - eliminated the chambers in the rubber tube with a steel exhaust tube, and cut a hole twice the size of my fist in the original opening of my lower airbox, where the intake "trumpet" was. I can't say that I have verified horsepower gains like you have, but that intake whales now and my butt tells me I picked-up a little. I'm considering something similar on my car when I get it - I just won't want it to look hacked; ya' know?Thanks for the input though. More is ALWAYS welcome ![]() ![]() ![]()
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'20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs |
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#17 | |
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FASTER!
Drives: Challenger Hellcat, 2SS Camaro Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Middle Tennessee
Posts: 2,244
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I also tested K&N, Amsoil, and Stock air filters to find a negligible difference in their performance on this vehicle (2HP variance) which was well within the standard deviation of the dyno proving they weren't worth the money. Not sure how a big V8 would fare but you can bet I'll be testing them and reporting the results on my website. Too many people jump on the aftermarket stuff without any clue what they're getting. On the 4Runner the K&N intake kit looses power over the stock system. The K&N filters also showed a HP loss power on my motorcycle as well as my buddy's GSXR 1000 as well. Moral of the story, be smart with your cash folks. |
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#18 | |
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Petro-sexual
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__________________
'20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs |
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#19 | |||
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Truth Enforcer
Drives: anything I can get my hands on Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: anywhere and everywhere
Posts: 22,797
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now as far as getting a J tube..... actually not that hard... if you want to spend the money for one straight from the aftermarket. you could do a 90* elbow right off the t/b then a straight tube that goes over to the air box. wont be one continuous piece tho. im sure the aftermarket will be making full CAI's available for $300-500.00 (if not more) as soon as the car hits the streets. but there will always be those who like to custom make things for themselves. I have a friend pushing over 400hp to the wheels in his 97 LT1 camaro with a PVC intake that he spent about $12.00 on. he did splurge for a filter however, but it works. might not be polished chrome like some people want, but it gets results.
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Never race anything you can't afford to light on fire and push off a cliff
A group as a whole tends to be smarter than the smartest person in that group until one jackass convinces everyone otherwise. Quote:
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#20 | |
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FASTER!
Drives: Challenger Hellcat, 2SS Camaro Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Middle Tennessee
Posts: 2,244
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Quote:
A lot of guys used exhaust tubing to do what I did on my 4Runner. I used SS tubing because A it's prettier, and B won't rust (rust going into the intake = bad). There'll be a lot of stuff aftermarket for this car, we'll just have to wait and see how the prices fall out. I think I spent a grand total of $22 on the one I did for the 4Runner, then sold two extra pieces of the SS tubing for $10 each once I was done to other folks that liked it. So really I was out $2 and my time. That's how I roll.
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#21 | |||
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Truth Enforcer
Drives: anything I can get my hands on Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: anywhere and everywhere
Posts: 22,797
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Quote:
__________________
Never race anything you can't afford to light on fire and push off a cliff
A group as a whole tends to be smarter than the smartest person in that group until one jackass convinces everyone otherwise. Quote:
Quote:
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#22 |
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Enlightened
Drives: Nothing Currently Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,285
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I prefer a molded plastic tubing from filter element to the throttle body. Steel tubing is known to heat up the air charge coming into the engine (absorbing heat from the engine) and the plastic dissipates heat better. If you're doing it on the cheap though, its hard to beat that piece together Spectre piping from AutoZone.
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#23 | |
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FASTER!
Drives: Challenger Hellcat, 2SS Camaro Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Middle Tennessee
Posts: 2,244
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Quote:
This can be proven by watching intake air temperatures on the OBDII system. |
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#24 | ||||
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Truth Enforcer
Drives: anything I can get my hands on Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: anywhere and everywhere
Posts: 22,797
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
Never race anything you can't afford to light on fire and push off a cliff
A group as a whole tends to be smarter than the smartest person in that group until one jackass convinces everyone otherwise. Quote:
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#25 |
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Enlightened
Drives: Nothing Currently Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,285
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Air picks up surrounding temperatures pretty quickly.
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#26 | ||
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Truth Enforcer
Drives: anything I can get my hands on Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: anywhere and everywhere
Posts: 22,797
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but when the air is moving at the speed that it does thru the intake, its not going to pick up a whole lot of heat. not to mention, plastic intake parts dont respond well to nitrous backfires.... then again, a lot of engine parts dont respond well to nitrous backfires.
__________________
Never race anything you can't afford to light on fire and push off a cliff
A group as a whole tends to be smarter than the smartest person in that group until one jackass convinces everyone otherwise. Quote:
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#27 | |
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Helping Build America
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS,LS3 2013 Duramax 3500HD Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Freeport LPG Export
Posts: 3,836
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Look at it this way. If you are in the desert, or any other hot climate, and your car is not moving, it absorbs heat to the point you cant touch it. Start up and go for a drive and in a couple minutes the car body has cooled enough to hang your arm out the window. The moving air removed the excess heat. Now, when your engine is running the intake has several hundred cubic feet of air passing thru every minute. It will cool the internal surfaces of the intake the same as I described earlier. This translates into very minimal change on the temperature of the air between the intake source and the throttle body regardless of the material. I can't prove this but I do have a pretty good understanding of heat transfer. I have been a welder and welding inspector for a combined 34 years, working in just about every climate you can imagine. From the north slope of Alaska to Antarctica and hundreds of places in between. Having performed many different preheat and postweld heat treatments for stress relief, I think I have a grip on heat transfer. Just my opinion. The key is to get a large volume of air from outside the engine compartment into the cylinders = more oxygen= hotter fire=more HP
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy shit, what a ride!"
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#28 |
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FASTER!
Drives: Challenger Hellcat, 2SS Camaro Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Middle Tennessee
Posts: 2,244
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Man trust me...not that quick, and not enough of a difference between black plastic and shiny stainless steel to make ANY difference in power at all.
I could use the flip side and say that the plastic will become heat saturated faster and thus infuse more heat into the air flowing through it over the stainless steel part as it will actually dissipate heat. You don't see plastic radiators right? That's because metal releases heat faster than plastic as well, but that really doesn't make a hill of beans difference in this application. |
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