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#15 |
![]() Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 45
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How about washing it down with the engine cover off?
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#16 |
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Drives: The shiny ones. Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: In the detail shop!
Posts: 5,979
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Don't see why there would be anymore concern with the cover off... I don't personally own a camaro so I'm not intimately familiar with what might be under there besides the typically really ugly OEM intake manifold and coil packs. Anything in particular that you see as a concern?
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#17 |
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NOW CAMMED & SUPERCHARGED
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Black w/ IOM Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ar
Posts: 2,336
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What about a maggie car?
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Livernois Motorsports: Maggie 2300 7psi, Livernois 2C cam/L99 to LS3 Conversion, Ported TB, Rotofab w/adm race scoop, adm trans cooler,Kooks headers no cats, Kooks 3" exhaust. METCO breather. Precision 2400 Vigilante TC. Eibach Lowering Springs & Swaybars. BMR Trailing arms, BMR Rear Cradle Bushings, BMR Toe Rods, BMR Differential bushings. Vossen CV3 20's w/ 305 Mickey Thompson @25psi. Zl1 front bumper. OE Zl1 Hood and matte black insert. 556RWHP/500RWTQ L99
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#18 |
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#19 |
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Drives: The shiny ones. Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: In the detail shop!
Posts: 5,979
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FWIW - you don't want to go spraying silicones into your engine bay. While they may make for cheap (and disgustingly shiny dressings) silicone will attract and hold more dust than a water based dressing. The end result might look OK if you're into a 'used car lot' kind of look under the hood, but it will turn brown and hold dirt after just a little driving.
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#20 |
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I have no life
Drives: 06' Subaru STI, ex-Camaro V6 LLT Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Top Gear Test Track
Posts: 3,189
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Yeah, use VRT. Wow that stuff is addicting. You just want to try it on all kinds of surfaces lol
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#21 | |
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Quote:
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#22 | |
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Drives: The shiny ones. Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: In the detail shop!
Posts: 5,979
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Quote:
Honestly, its personal preference, do what works for you, but notice I didn't even mention our stuff specifically. Silicone will attract and hold more dust thus resulting in browning and by your own admission you have to avoid getting it on belts and things of that nature... certainly not a concern I'd want to have. A water based or purpose built product for under-hood dressing doesn't have that concern. A pure silicone spray can cause issues including belt slippage and if it pulls in dirt a belt squeal isn't out of the question either. I liken it to 'used car lot' look b/c thats the way they detail an engine bay... hose it off, cover it in silicone or armourall so it shines like an oil slick. I'm not so concerned with selling my "high priced alternative" as I am in giving appropriate and accurate information on how to PROPERLY care for the area. If your way works for you, more power to ya! Don't let me tell you otherwise... stick with what makes you happy!
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#23 |
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I`ve used water only from a water hose, no direct hard stream, then I use a yard blower to insure all water is blown away, then I drive the car until HOT, no problems, doing it this way for years now.
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#24 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 67 goat, 69 goat ram air III Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South texas
Posts: 1,443
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Quote:
I go to the pay and spray and use the methods Dylan covers in the vids. I use the APC and/or the car wash wheel/engine cleaner (on large truck bay), brush with the boars head brush and rinse with the low pressure soft water to reduce spotting. no high pressure needed and cover what you feel like covering. Wipe down, start up to let it dry off and then VRT ( can cut with distilled water 1:1) to spray and in out spray. I stay away from any high pressure esp on coil packs etc... |
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#25 | |
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Born Olds, Living Chevy
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The people over at Adam's have made 7 instructional volumes of how to detail your own car and you can watch the current most one (volume 6) for free on their website. They are far from pushy about their products. Try Super VRT and the in and out spray and I promise you'll be impressed. If you aren't they offer a 110% satisfaction guarantee.
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