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#295 |
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#296 | |
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Booooosted.
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Quote:
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#297 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Back roads, southern Ohio
Posts: 12,504
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People, No one is saying the tranny snap caused this. All we are saying is it's possible that the sudden jolt could have effected (damaged or sheared) the cam pin. The car ran great for about 500+ miles after the tranny failure. The torque in the single cam bolt held the cam gear to the cam until mike power shifted and it couldn't hold anymore.
It's only a hypothesis but it makes total sense. If I were anyone else that experienced the output shaft failure, I'd be inspecting the pin if I had an oem or aftermarket single bolt cam. |
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#298 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Back roads, southern Ohio
Posts: 12,504
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#299 |
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Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: By the lake in AZ
Posts: 15,728
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Ok i think that the pin may be sherd, but i do not think this was the problem, If you lost a rod, its more likely that is what made this motor grenade, Think about it, we have seen a sherd pin in a cam before and it bent valves and push rods but never the rods.
When we use to Run 1/4 mi race cars we had a motor let go like this we ran aluminum rods and trying to save $ we ran the sets to long and one let go, But it did not go true the pan, it went up and lets say the only parts we reused after that was the pan & heads the rest was scrap. So i say it was the rod that went out first and that made the cam get pushed out of timing and then you lost the rest. |
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#300 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Back roads, southern Ohio
Posts: 12,504
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Another good possibility. I don't think we will ever really know. Just like O.J.
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#301 |
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#302 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 10 1LT SIM; 91 B4C sleeper Z Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ft. Mitchell, Alabama
Posts: 7,198
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This is horrible. I just read the thread and looked at the pictures. Sorry to hear. Couple of questions though. Is the valve outline on the piston tops normal? I read in there that if they were hitting it would run like crap and you would notice that. I think that's obvious enough. However, if it's bumped up to it with really really minimal clearance, like .001 inch, then the output shaft takes a dump, engine revs wildly for a second, the intake valve top shears off as it made contact with the piston while the cam still turns and shoves a lifter up to the pushrod (that has bent and broken the tray already), lifter gets misaligned in the tray now and, well, did what it did. I'm guessing the 3rd valve imprint is the cylinder the valve broke in? If that piston can't travel the full range because it's blocked, I'm assuming that jams up the entire crankshaft and rods and the weakest point gives? Dude this sucks to see. I'm just trying to think in order of events here. This is kind of what I do for a living. I can't see your cam having anything to do with this other than the chain of events that led up to it and that lifter got jammed in there. I don't see how a valve top can separate especially seeing that your valve springs are all intact unless contact was made with the piston. Hope you are up and running soon!
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#303 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
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When the cam goes out of time (sheared pin) with the crank. All the valves hit the pistons in a split second. The pushrods bend, pistons/rods shatter, lifters break...
The question will probably be - why did the dowel pin shear? Defect, harmonics, over-rev...? When you change the cam, springs, pushrods, balancer... completely changes the valve train dynamics. It would take Spintron and durability dyno testing to see if there is any bad harmonics in that combo of parts. Or it could be as simple as a bad dowel pin or something wrong with the dowel holes that beat up the dowel pin. Or the bolt backed out a bit... Several possiblities. If it was installed perfectly, cam flush against the cam gear, no bolt problems... that would lead toward harmonics beat up the pin over time until it fatigued. |
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#304 |
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Writer
Drives: 2010 SS / 1967 Camaro Join Date: May 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 7,221
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Just went through the whole thread.
I would agree with SUX2BU, I think that maybe the pin tip sheared off. But SUX2BU (can't remember your name we've met in the past), you don't think there is a chance that when the output shaft sheared that the engine could have experience a big overrev? In the old day of the LS engine, I broke it all, PtoV (just marked up the pistons) and I even broke a timing chain. I don't remember already, but did you by chance break off an valve, any of them broken? If you are looking for helpers on the car let me know, I'd try to swing by since you are not far. Looks like you need to source an engine hoist.
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#305 |
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Booooosted.
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There is a circle of events. This one is not easy to figure. We all know what happened in the circle, but we just don't know where the circle began.
One thing is for sure, this is a textbook case where you could point out the whole, "If that breaks then this happens, when this happens then the other will happen, when the other happens then this happens." We will know more when the front cover comes off. It's probably most likely that we never get anything difinitive. |
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#306 |
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Senior Camaro Fanatic
Drives: 2011 SS/RS manual - White Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: aiken, sc
Posts: 1,980
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I power shifted a '01 VTec Prelude from 3rd gear accidentally into 2nd at 6000rpm. Needless to say I forced the engine into overev until I slammed in the clutch.
In similar fashion to this cam pin/one bolt situation we are talking about here......the cam sprocket jumped 5 full teeth on the belt and the results were nearly identical. Nothing "let go" in the engine per se' Last edited by f5journal; 06-21-2011 at 02:01 PM. |
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#307 |
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The Mark of Excellence
Drives: 2010 ABM 1SS RS LS3 Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Smallest State in the Union
Posts: 8,688
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I don't think anybody asked this yet. How do you ask for warranty work after you have already stripped the motor down?
Best of luck Mike.
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#308 | |
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Booooosted.
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Quote:
Hugger, get that front off.
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