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#15 |
![]() Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Imperial Blue Metallic Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Huntington West Va
Posts: 443
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I will look up the grade of bolt tomorrow at work. I would think a case hardenedbolt/stud would be a better choice. Like Pollock said there are a lot of static loads/vibrations at that point do to the lenght of the shaft and the weight of the can. I do know a little about metal propertys i have been a welding inspector and non destructive testing tech ie: xray, mag particle, ultrasonic inspection for over 23 yrs.
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#16 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Black 1SS Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Langley BC
Posts: 666
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![]() I have one.. now I'm worried!
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2010 Black 1SS LS3 M6
Power: Kook's 1 7/8" Long Tubes and 3" Exhaust, Injen Full Length CAI, Jannetty Tune Drivetrain: MGW Short Shifter, Street Slayer Twin Clutch, DSS 1 Piece Aluminum Driveshaft, DSS 1000HP Axles, BMR Pro and Delrin Diff Bushings Suspension: BMR Trailing Arms and Bushings, FE6 Swaybar Conversion With Pedders 27mm Front and 32mm Rear ZL1 Swaybars and Links Chassis: Hotchkis Chassis Max Brace, BMR Pro Cradle Bushings Exterior:: Shine by Adam's. ...and plenty more |
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#17 |
![]() Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Imperial Blue Metallic Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Huntington West Va
Posts: 443
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IndeedSS1Wrote: Elite doesnt supply that stud do they? No they dont the stud is OEM.the only thing we did was remove the nut on it that holds the groung clamp then theard the rod on to the stud end of the bolt.I got a call back fom elite but was outside. steve left me a message and said he would call tomorrow. Icalled back and left a message again and sent a email with pic of sheared stud. Its fuzzy but here a pic of the damage to my can.
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#18 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro SS LS3 Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern MO
Posts: 3,786
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Sounds like you guys have discovered a serious issue. I suppose it may be on Eilte to start including an appropriate grade stud in their kit?
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#19 |
![]() Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Imperial Blue Metallic Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Huntington West Va
Posts: 443
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IndeedSS1 wasnt there someone on here that came up with a L backet piece that mounted on the stud thats not used from the OEM airbox location if you had a after market coldair intake on your car. I thought there was but cant find the post anywhere. Thanks for any help.
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#20 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: COTW 8/29/11 2010 CAMARO Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: HOMELESS
Posts: 10,010
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looks like the rod was over tighten...
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#21 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro SS LS3 Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern MO
Posts: 3,786
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Quote:
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#22 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro SS LS3 Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern MO
Posts: 3,786
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I didn't tighten mine any more than snug but only because I was afraid of stripping the aluminum threads. It never occured to me that the stud may be stressed. But when asked the OP said he didn't overtighten the dowel.
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#23 |
![]() Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Imperial Blue Metallic Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Huntington West Va
Posts: 443
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My rod wasnt over tightened to the stud. looking at it from a metallurgy stand point the shear appears to have been caused by vibration of the can weight and rod lenght that started a small crack that over time sheared thru the bolt. That info coming from the test lab results run from the inspection company i work for and our in house level lll metalurgist
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#24 |
![]() Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Imperial Blue Metallic Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Huntington West Va
Posts: 443
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IndeedSS1 Thanks thats what i was lookin for ,ill have to get me a small piece of plate from the shop tomorrow and bend it, drill the holes and mount it to the stud from the oem airbox location.
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#25 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro SS LS3 Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern MO
Posts: 3,786
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Quote:
I found it. Start at post #65 and scroll through the rest of the thread. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...te+driver+side
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#26 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 100
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I don't have one of those cans but just from how the attachment is, looks like you are creating a sheer point. Using a properly rated bold should help prevent a failure such as this but, I think a better designed mount is in order.
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#27 |
![]() Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Imperial Blue Metallic Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Huntington West Va
Posts: 443
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Thanks IndeedSS1 thats what i was looing for. You my friend ARE THE MAN.
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#28 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2SS/RS - Black - GFX Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: B'ham, Alabama
Posts: 2,458
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post up a close up of the fracture surface and I may be able to tell you how it failed.
does it look like this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material) my guess its that it does look similar (fatigue cracks), and the vibration was to much for the moment arm. A better grade bolt would work... but a relocation would be best as you will still be fighting that moment arm.
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