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Old 06-28-2011, 10:55 PM   #29
SUX2BU
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So that long rod goes threaded on the tip of that bolt that broke? If so, that is a horrible design. That bolt is not designed for that kind of lateral stress.
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:29 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by IndeedSS1 View Post
Sounds like you guys have discovered a serious issue. I suppose it may be on Eilte to start including an appropriate grade stud in their kit?

After hearing about this tonight and giving it some more thought, I think the best, most reliable solution would be to supply a higher grade 10mm threaded stud, maybe a grade 5 or grade 8 and completely replace the existing stud.

Really sorry to hear this has happened with this design. We do have alternate mounting brackets and locations as shown.

Steve
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:43 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Elite Engineering View Post
After hearing about this tonight and giving it some more thought, I think the best, most reliable solution would be to supply a higher grade 10mm threaded stud, maybe a grade 5 or grade 8 and completely replace the existing stud.

Really sorry to hear this has happened with this design. We do have alternate mounting brackets and locations as shown.

Steve
Please PM "info" on the anodized blue unit bracket, ship to zip 96813. Much nicer than the 90* alum piece I made. USPS ok.
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:51 PM   #32
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post up a close up of the fracture surface and I may be able to tell you how it failed.
.
Does anyone know the part number for this bolt?

We will see what the other member's research into his failure turns up. Until then, here is a close up of mine:
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:54 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Elite Engineering View Post
After hearing about this tonight and giving it some more thought, I think the best, most reliable solution would be to supply a higher grade 10mm threaded stud, maybe a grade 5 or grade 8 and completely replace the existing stud.

Really sorry to hear this has happened with this design. We do have alternate mounting brackets and locations as shown.

Steve
EE,

It looks like the "cup" part of the can is shot due to coming into contact with my pulleys on the accessory belt...do you sell this part separately? I don't think when I purchased the can those other mounting pieces were options...just the type of fitting (brass, etc)...how much do those brackets run? Thanks!
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:07 AM   #34
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my guess its that it does look similar (fatigue cracks), and the vibration was to much for the moment arm.
That's what I was going to come into post. There could also be a resonant frequency problem at a certain speed or RPM. That'll really accelerate a fatigue failure.
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:14 AM   #35
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Does anyone know the part number for this bolt?

We will see what the other member's research into his failure turns up. Until then, here is a close up of mine:
+1. What is the size of the stud and nut? I lost my nut and wanted one extra just incase I wanted to go back to stock and change the catch can bracket.
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:40 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elite Engineering View Post
After hearing about this tonight and giving it some more thought, I think the best, most reliable solution would be to supply a higher grade 10mm threaded stud, maybe a grade 5 or grade 8 and completely replace the existing stud.

Really sorry to hear this has happened with this design. We do have alternate mounting brackets and locations as shown.

Steve
Meh...your alternate mounting looks ok, but mine...

j/k I like what you've come up with. Those with Vararam intakes may want to consider on e of the alternates. Steve thanks for showing up in the thread so quick.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:29 AM   #37
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So I just put one of these cans on last week, it's a beautiful can, but I did wonder if putting the weight of the can out over 6" on the end of that stud would prove to be durable. All the vibration must in time be to much for that stud. Steve, any chance you can get us a higher grade stud?
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:46 AM   #38
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So I just put one of these cans on last week, it's a beautiful can, but I did wonder if putting the weight of the can out over 6" on the end of that stud would prove to be durable. All the vibration must in time be to much for that stud. Steve, any chance you can get us a higher grade stud?

Sure, I would be happy to send you a replacement stud. But it IS CRITICAL THAT YOU REMOVE THE EXISTING NUT as described on our instructions and thread the aluminum shaft all the way down to the engine block.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:53 AM   #39
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Sure, I would be happy to send you a replacement stud. But it IS CRITICAL THAT YOU REMOVE THE EXISTING NUT as described on our instructions and thread the aluminum shaft all the way down to the engine block.
I could be wrong but thought the nut shown in the pictures was fixed.
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:09 PM   #40
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i've got the rx can and after seein this, it's goin over to the driver's side mounting.
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:13 PM   #41
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I recently purchased the Heavy Duty Belt Tensioner for the Maggie from East Texas Muscle Cars and had to remove my Elite Engineering Catch Can to install it. I will work on another setup and install somewhere else.. I will post pics when I am finished..

Thanks for this info everyone!!
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:19 PM   #42
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Quote:
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Sure, I would be happy to send you a replacement stud. But it IS CRITICAL THAT YOU REMOVE THE EXISTING NUT as described on our instructions and thread the aluminum shaft all the way down to the engine block.
Yes, I removed the stock nut from the stud before threading your shaft on the stud. All goes well, but time will put a lot of stress on that stud. Since this is the first we have heard of failure it must take a year or more. This is no fault of the Elite can or hardware, the factory stud was not designed to handle that much stress over time.
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