Elite Engineering Catch Can Problem: Car won't start and left me stranded - Page 4 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

sscamaro · 06-29-2011, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Godon Hutchinson

IndeedSS1 wasnt there someone on here that came up with a L backet piece that mounted on the stud thats not used from the OEM airbox location if you had a after market coldair intake on your car. I thought there was but cant find the post anywhere. Thanks for any help.

I had to do an alternate location because of my E-Force S/C. Here is a picture of mine. I have since painted the bracket red.

adub4185 · 06-29-2011, 01:16 PM

As the one who designed the bracket and the mounting position, it is critical that you first remove the nut and tighten the shaft to the block. The two failures (with pictures) both had the nuts on the threaded rod and at this point, I will have to attribute the failures to not having removed the nuts first. Removing the nut allows the shaft to grab a lot more of the threaded rod and allows the installer to tighten the rod against the engine and not against the nut. I designed the threaded rod to have a deep hole and good deal of threads for this very purpose. I have installed these cans on setups where the nut has been difficult to remove, so my advice is to properly disconnect the battery, remove the threaded rod as a whole, and use penetrating oil on the nut to help break it free. I can assure you (unless GM changed the design) that it will break free, it just may be difficult. I would also suggest using a spring washer between the threaded shaft and the grounding cable to keep it from backing off for those that are worried about the installation. I am also going to take a look at my setup and look for any sign of fatigue on the threaded rod. With the vibrations created by my cam it may only be a matter of time before it breaks, but I will do a good deal of analysis on it and let you guys know what I come up with. I'll be traveling till early next week, but I will try to get to this issue as soon as I can.

Steve-

It may be wise to offer a higher grade threaded rod for this application for those that want to stick with this mounting position.

Keith-

Take a look at the second picture in post #30. That setup should work just fine with your tensioner. I saw Rick's setup the other night and suggested he contact elite about the V6 style mount.

Hope this helps guys and I am really sorry that you have been seeing failures like this! For those of you that installed it without removing the nut, did you try to remove it and have no luck getting it to come off, or did you just skip the step? It may be something that we revise in the installation instructions and place a little more emphasis on.

IndeedSS1 · 06-29-2011, 01:20 PM

Aren't there are two nuts on that stud? The fixed one and the one that holds down the ground terminal. Are you saying that both nuts need to be removed? Mine has two, at least that is how I remember it to be.

adub4185 · 06-29-2011, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IndeedSS1

Aren't there are two nuts on that stud? The fixed one and the one that holds down the ground terminal. Are you saying that both nuts need to be removed? Mine has two, at least that is how I remember it to be.

Along with the other installs I have done, mine only had one nut tightening the ground strap and a conduit support bracket to the block. if your setup has 2, I would suggest removing both and using the threaded shaft as your new "nut". As I stated before, put a spring washer between the two for a little added security. If yours did come with two nuts from the factory, post up a picture of the setup and I'll give you my 2cents on the install.

Camaro21 · 06-29-2011, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adub4185

Keith-

Take a look at the second picture in post #30. That setup should work just fine with your tensioner. I saw Rick's setup the other night and suggested he contact elite about the V6 style mount.

Alex,

Both Rick and I have the Showstoppers Radiator Cover that uses a bracket where I was wanting to mount it, I may create another bracket and use it dual purpose for mounting the Catch Can & for the Radiator Cover !!

IndeedSS1 · 06-29-2011, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adub4185

Along with the other installs I have done, mine only had one nut tightening the ground strap and a conduit support bracket to the block. if your setup has 2, I would suggest removing both and using the threaded shaft as your new "nut". As I stated before, put a spring washer between the two for a little added security. If yours did come with two nuts from the factory, post up a picture of the setup and I'll give you my 2cents on the install.

I may be wrong as it's been a while. If it does only have the one nut, and the OP installed the shaft on top of it, then I can see why it would have way more stress. Will check tonight to see what mine looks like. To note I didn't have a problem with mine and it's a 300+ mile a week daily driver.

ackeight · 06-29-2011, 02:45 PM

I'm feeling better now. I took my nut off per instructions way back in the day.

MudderFinger · 06-29-2011, 02:58 PM

Holy crap I need one of the upgraded studs.

Nomad · 06-29-2011, 02:59 PM

Found my install pics. There was only one nut that I removed.

13 ZL1 · 06-29-2011, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sting808

Please PM "info" on the anodized blue unit bracket, ship to zip 96813. Much nicer than the 90* alum piece I made. USPS ok.

Same here to 95336

Godon Hutchinson · 06-29-2011, 03:47 PM

Steve mine was one that failed that i sent you guys a email of the pic last night. I also DID remove the nut from the stud before my install. what would one of the mounting brackets that go on the stud from the oem airfilter box location run me. If you could PM the price shipped to25704. Thanks

IndeedSS1 · 06-29-2011, 06:32 PM

Elite - here is a crappy picture of the double nuts that I was referring to.

KnightRiderSS · 06-30-2011, 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adub4185

As the one who designed the bracket and the mounting position, it is critical that you first remove the nut and tighten the shaft to the block. The two failures (with pictures) both had the nuts on the threaded rod and at this point, I will have to attribute the failures to not having removed the nuts first. Removing the nut allows the shaft to grab a lot more of the threaded rod and allows the installer to tighten the rod against the engine and not against the nut. I designed the threaded rod to have a deep hole and good deal of threads for this very purpose. I have installed these cans on setups where the nut has been difficult to remove, so my advice is to properly disconnect the battery, remove the threaded rod as a whole, and use penetrating oil on the nut to help break it free. I can assure you (unless GM changed the design) that it will break free, it just may be difficult. I would also suggest using a spring washer between the threaded shaft and the grounding cable to keep it from backing off for those that are worried about the installation. I am also going to take a look at my setup and look for any sign of fatigue on the threaded rod. With the vibrations created by my cam it may only be a matter of time before it breaks, but I will do a good deal of analysis on it and let you guys know what I come up with. I'll be traveling till early next week, but I will try to get to this issue as soon as I can.

Steve-

It may be wise to offer a higher grade threaded rod for this application for those that want to stick with this mounting position.

Keith-

Take a look at the second picture in post #30. That setup should work just fine with your tensioner. I saw Rick's setup the other night and suggested he contact elite about the V6 style mount.

Hope this helps guys and I am really sorry that you have been seeing failures like this! For those of you that installed it without removing the nut, did you try to remove it and have no luck getting it to come off, or did you just skip the step? It may be something that we revise in the installation instructions and place a little more emphasis on.

hmmm...I will have to take mine off again and look at it to see if the nut closest to the block is removable....I looked at it during the install and it didn't look like it would...it looked like it was fixed to the bolt..my 2010 is a late model and has some 2011 parts on it....

if it is...hopefully I will have saved some people from

TMoneySS · 06-30-2011, 07:02 AM

May I please get a PM when a solution is found? I have this catch can for my 2012 when it arrives.

TMoneySS (Taylor)

06-29-2011, 01:20 PM	#45
IndeedSS1 Drives: 2010 Camaro SS LS3 Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Eastern MO Posts: 3,786	Aren't there are two nuts on that stud? The fixed one and the one that holds down the ground terminal. Are you saying that both nuts need to be removed? Mine has two, at least that is how I remember it to be. __________________ She is only memory now.

06-29-2011, 02:45 PM	#49
ackeight Drives: 10' 2SS/RS Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Rockwall, TX Posts: 1,389 View My Garage	I'm feeling better now. I took my nut off per instructions way back in the day. __________________ ADM tuned 412HP/407RWTQ. Kooks 2" headers w/ cats, ADM race intake, Vmax TB, Pedders XA coilovers and ZL1 sways. 1le clone

06-29-2011, 02:59 PM	#51
Nomad Drives: '11 2SS/RS RJT M6 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Grounded in the 'Shwa Posts: 478 View My Garage	Found my install pics. There was only one nut that I removed. __________________ Vararam CAI, Elite Engineering Catch Can, Separate Clutch Fluid Reservoir, Ghost Armor Full Protection Package, Chromed Turn Signal Bulbs, RPI Stealth Splash Guards, Skip Shift Eliminator, Defenderworx Chrome Bowtie Inserts, Pfadt Trailing Arms, Camaro Decal Store CGM Hood Spears with "376ci" custom text, Billet Depot/Drake Underhood Polished Caps, CGM Lug Nut Decals, Pedders Front Radius Rod Inserts, JacFab Front License Plate Bracket

06-29-2011, 06:32 PM	#54
IndeedSS1 Drives: 2010 Camaro SS LS3 Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Eastern MO Posts: 3,786	Elite - here is a crappy picture of the double nuts that I was referring to. Attached Images __________________ She is only memory now.

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06-29-2011, 01:16 PM	#44
adub4185 Drives: 2010 2SS RS, 2023 Camaro ZLE Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 633	As the one who designed the bracket and the mounting position, it is critical that you first remove the nut and tighten the shaft to the block. The two failures (with pictures) both had the nuts on the threaded rod and at this point, I will have to attribute the failures to not having removed the nuts first. Removing the nut allows the shaft to grab a lot more of the threaded rod and allows the installer to tighten the rod against the engine and not against the nut. I designed the threaded rod to have a deep hole and good deal of threads for this very purpose. I have installed these cans on setups where the nut has been difficult to remove, so my advice is to properly disconnect the battery, remove the threaded rod as a whole, and use penetrating oil on the nut to help break it free. I can assure you (unless GM changed the design) that it will break free, it just may be difficult. I would also suggest using a spring washer between the threaded shaft and the grounding cable to keep it from backing off for those that are worried about the installation. I am also going to take a look at my setup and look for any sign of fatigue on the threaded rod. With the vibrations created by my cam it may only be a matter of time before it breaks, but I will do a good deal of analysis on it and let you guys know what I come up with. I'll be traveling till early next week, but I will try to get to this issue as soon as I can. Steve- It may be wise to offer a higher grade threaded rod for this application for those that want to stick with this mounting position. Keith- Take a look at the second picture in post #30. That setup should work just fine with your tensioner. I saw Rick's setup the other night and suggested he contact elite about the V6 style mount. Hope this helps guys and I am really sorry that you have been seeing failures like this! For those of you that installed it without removing the nut, did you try to remove it and have no luck getting it to come off, or did you just skip the step? It may be something that we revise in the installation instructions and place a little more emphasis on.

06-29-2011, 02:58 PM	#50
MudderFinger Drives: 2011 IOM SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 887 View My Garage	Holy crap I need one of the upgraded studs.

06-29-2011, 03:47 PM	#53
Godon Hutchinson Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Imperial Blue Metallic Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Huntington West Va Posts: 443	Steve mine was one that failed that i sent you guys a email of the pic last night. I also DID remove the nut from the stud before my install. what would one of the mounting brackets that go on the stud from the oem airfilter box location run me. If you could PM the price shipped to25704. Thanks

06-30-2011, 07:02 AM	#56
TMoneySS Drives: 2007 Shelby GT500 Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Iowa Posts: 319	May I please get a PM when a solution is found? I have this catch can for my 2012 when it arrives. TMoneySS (Taylor)