Infineon Wed May 11th result

[SRT10KLLR]

Originally Posted by Briand069

So, in short it's who ever crosses the finish line first without going under your dial in? If you could show the math that would be cool. I think I'm just confusing myself.

Originally Posted by DarkObsession

In short, yes, whoever crosses the line first without breaking out (going faster than their dial in) AND without red lighting wins. If he managed both of those and still beat you across the line, then he's the winner, regardless of how off his dial in he was.

The reason you want to be close to the dial in is because of the head start. If you dial in say, 13.000 and the other guy dials in 15.000, he gets a 2 second head start. If you run exactly 13.000 and he runs 15.100, then you would have beat him across the line by .1 seconds.

In your case, I guess it's probably like this:



You had a 13.40 dial in, ran 13.475 which means you were .075 seconds behind in your run.

You got a 0.41 second head start but his reaction time was better than yours by 0.395 seconds which means that you basically gave up ALL of your head start in RT. If you add how much you were off your dial in to that, you gave up 0.47 seconds which means you gave up MORE than your head start all together. At that point, he just has to beat you across the line without going under 12.99 which is going to be relatively easy.

I hope I explained that well enough Does that make sense? Bracket racing is ALL about the RT and consistency to dial ins.

Exactly.

You need to work on your R/T. Are you taking off on the Green? If so, you need to take off on the last Yellow instead.

[Silver2SSRS6spd]

Originally Posted by SRT10KLLR

Exactly.

You need to work on your R/T. Are you taking off on the Green? If so, you need to take off on the last Yellow instead.

Huge +1

[Briand069]

Originally Posted by DarkObsession

In short, yes, whoever crosses the line first without breaking out (going faster than their dial in) AND without red lighting wins. If he managed both of those and still beat you across the line, then he's the winner, regardless of how off his dial in he was.

The reason you want to be close to the dial in is because of the head start. If you dial in say, 13.000 and the other guy dials in 15.000, he gets a 2 second head start. If you run exactly 13.000 and he runs 15.100, then you would have beat him across the line by .1 seconds.

In your case, I guess it's probably like this:

You had a 13.40 dial in, ran 13.475 which means you were .075 seconds behind in your run.

You got a 0.41 second head start but his reaction time was better than yours by 0.395 seconds which means that you basically gave up ALL of your head start in RT. If you add how much you were off your dial in to that, you gave up 0.47 seconds which means you gave up MORE than your head start all together. At that point, he just has to beat you across the line without going under 12.99 which is going to be relatively easy.

I hope I explained that well enough Does that make sense? Bracket racing is ALL about the RT and consistency to dial ins.

That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the extra explaination. Figures the night I have my best times to date my RT sucks. The last couple times I have run my RT's were .0xx. So I'll foucs more on the RT now.
Thanks
Brian

[kaler]

Originally Posted by DarkObsession

The reason you want to be close to the dial in is because of the head start. If you dial in say, 13.000 and the other guy dials in 15.000, he gets a 2 second head start. If you run exactly 13.000 and he runs 15.100, then you would have beat him across the line by .1 seconds.

This is true but let's account for the R/T for these 2 cars for Briand069. Using the same 13.000 (car A) and 15.000 (car B) dial in. Car A runs a 13.000 with a .500 R/T and car B runs the same 15.100 with a .100 R/T although car A ran a perfect 13.000 it would still lose by .300. I will ad to bracket race competitively your R/T needs to start with a .0 practice practice then some more practice. Like stated above leave on the last yellow, once you start knocking your R/T down you can start fine tuning it by staging really shallow (just barely click the stage light on) or stage deep (just before the pre- stage light goes out). There is actually a lot of room between the pre stage. and stage lights.

[The Yeti]

I was under the impression that at Infineon they add your RT time to the difference in time in your Dial in. The car with the lowest number wins.

In that case the OP would have lost because his effective time difference was .754 vs the other guys .704 difference in dial in plus RT.