Official Hypertech Programmer Thread

[cowboy1948]

Originally Posted by AUS10BMX

Nope, not yet. If my cal number is farther off than yours they are writing one. I tried updating it but nothings been made yet and no email.

I filled up with 93 octane yesterday, today it kicked in. I notice a difference since I usually run regular. Ive tried it before and it's well worth it. If this freaking tune can pull through it should all work very well.

Give them a call. and ask for Jim, 1-800-532-3351 ext 1440
He is the one that helped me. And it was all my fault for not remembering the insert was in there. Boy did I fell like a "dummy".
I filled it up with 93 octane this morning. And ran a bunch or errans
.And it felt better. But maybe the ecm needs to catch on to all the changes.
I should be getting the other throttle body next week. And well just see how it all works togeater.

[AUS10BMX]

Got my email that the update is ready. I'll load her up later today when I'm off work and post back on how everything goes... Hoping it's gonna work fine.

[bmorecam]

Originally Posted by AUS10BMX

Got my email that the update is ready. I'll load her up later today when I'm off work and post back on how everything goes... Hoping it's gonna work fine.

well there you go make sure you give us your review.

[AUS10BMX]

Ok so first opinion... Our 3.6l direct injection engines like premium, wow! This is the first time I've filled up with it several times, and didn't switch back to regular. Even without a tune, it's the way to go!

The Hypertech tune installed fine, very easy to read and understand.

I did the initial tune, premium fuel, and Airaid intake.

Other than that I left it stock. I'd like to discuss with everyone as to what shift points, idle, and rev limits I should use. It's not a daily driver per say, but I drive it quite a bit in a week. I don't want to max it out, but enough to have some extra noticeable power with the firmness etc. Any opinions on what to set them?

[bmorecam]

Originally Posted by AUS10BMX

Ok so first opinion... Our 3.6l direct injection engines like premium, wow! This is the first time I've filled up with it several times, and didn't switch back to regular. Even without a tune, it's the way to go!

The Hypertech tune installed fine, very easy to read and understand.

I did the initial tune, premium fuel, and Airaid intake.

Other than that I left it stock. I'd like to discuss with everyone as to what shift points, idle, and rev limits I should use. It's not a daily driver per say, but I drive it quite a bit in a week. I don't want to max it out, but enough to have some extra noticeable power with the firmness etc. Any opinions on what to set them?

Since dialing in the tranny using HT is fairly new to the v6'ers I think alot of others are probably in the same boat as you are. I remember doing a search here a while back on hypertech and it look like the SS guys already been through this already. Maybe you should post up on the v8 thread and ask for some feedback from experienced users.

Here is one thread I found for ya..http://camaro5.com/forums/showthread...ight=hypertech

[67 GTO]

Originally Posted by AUS10BMX

Ok so first opinion... Our 3.6l direct injection engines like premium, wow! This is the first time I've filled up with it several times, and didn't switch back to regular. Even without a tune, it's the way to go!

The Hypertech tune installed fine, very easy to read and understand.

I did the initial tune, premium fuel, and Airaid intake.

Other than that I left it stock. I'd like to discuss with everyone as to what shift points, idle, and rev limits I should use. It's not a daily driver per say, but I drive it quite a bit in a week. I don't want to max it out, but enough to have some extra noticeable power with the firmness etc. Any opinions on what to set them?

Great to hear! I won't be installing mine until I get back from a trip next week.

I'll start with the premium tune for the Vararam and the 75% shift firmness. (auto here)

I have the SLP pulley and will increase the idle by 50-100 rpm.

No problems with the pulley but it was mentioned that when stopped in traffic during the summer with the A/C running it would be good to rev the motor a bit so not to starve the battery. Can't hurt turning up the idle a little during those conditions.

I run shorter tires from late Oct to March and might correct the speedo but it's only off by about 4mph @60 but a nice feature to have.

Shift points and rev limiter I'm going to have to play with.

[Shu71]

Originally Posted by AUS10BMX

Ok so first opinion... Our 3.6l direct injection engines like premium, wow! This is the first time I've filled up with it several times, and didn't switch back to regular. Even without a tune, it's the way to go!

The Hypertech tune installed fine, very easy to read and understand.

I did the initial tune, premium fuel, and Airaid intake.

Other than that I left it stock. I'd like to discuss with everyone as to what shift points, idle, and rev limits I should use. It's not a daily driver per say, but I drive it quite a bit in a week. I don't want to max it out, but enough to have some extra noticeable power with the firmness etc. Any opinions on what to set them?

I wouldn't change the idle speed at all on a stock engine. Lowering it just increases the wear and tear on parts and raising it will just burn extra fuel. I would definately increase the shift firmness on the transmission some. A little sharper shifting helps prevent bands slipping and will prolong the life of the transmission. Too stiff and you start to shock the driveshaft and dif so I'd probably settle for a 25% stiffer, maybe 50%. As for shift points, I think that only applies to WOT shifts. In that case, I would do those with the paddle shifters manually and would probably leave the stock settings alone for regular driving. But then again I may raise them a little since GM programmed them a little low IMO. Go out and do a couple of WOT runs from dead stop and see what RPM the trans shifts at in stock form. Then raise it to where you feel it accelerates hard even after the shift point.

[bmorecam]

Originally Posted by Shu71

I wouldn't change the idle speed at all on a stock engine. Lowering it just increases the wear and tear on parts and raising it will just burn extra fuel. I would definately increase the shift firmness on the transmission some. A little sharper shifting helps prevent bands slipping and will prolong the life of the transmission. Too stiff and you start to shock the driveshaft and dif so I'd probably settle for a 25% stiffer, maybe 50%. As for shift points, I think that only applies to WOT shifts. In that case, I would do those with the paddle shifters manually and would probably leave the stock settings alone for regular driving. But then again I may raise them a little since GM programmed them a little low IMO. Go out and do a couple of WOT runs from dead stop and see what RPM the trans shifts at in stock form. Then raise it to where you feel it accelerates hard even after the shift point.

Thats a good point but it look like alot of peoples and even the tuners will set it to around 75%.. peoples love that chirp chirp

[AUS10BMX]

Originally Posted by bmorecam

Since dialing in the tranny using HT is fairly new to the v6'ers I think alot of others are probably in the same boat as you are. I remember doing a search here a while back on hypertech and it look like the SS guys already been through this already. Maybe you should post up on the v8 thread and ask for some feedback from experienced users.

Here is one thread I found for ya..http://camaro5.com/forums/showthread...ight=hypertech

Thanks for the help dude! I'll try and catch up on some stuff over there and see what others have to say.

Originally Posted by 67 GTO

Great to hear! I won't be installing mine until I get back from a trip next week.

I'll start with the premium tune for the Vararam and the 75% shift firmness. (auto here)

I have the SLP pulley and will increase the idle by 50-100 rpm.

No problems with the pulley but it was mentioned that when stopped in traffic during the summer with the A/C running it would be good to rev the motor a bit so not to starve the battery. Can't hurt turning up the idle a little during those conditions.

I run shorter tires from late Oct to March and might correct the speedo but it's only off by about 4mph @60 but a nice feature to have.

Shift points and rev limiter I'm going to have to play with.

Hopefully your install goes smooth, chances are you will have to get the tuner updated. At first I was pretty frustrated about it, but it makes sense as to why some didn't work immediately. They sent me a email in 2 days confirming the update, so it wasn't too bad.

I've got a lot to play around with in some of the other areas.

Originally Posted by bmorecam

Thats a good point but it look like alot of peoples and even the tuners will set it to around 75%.. peoples love that chirp chirp

I'm gonna start low, and work my way up. I'll be driving around 250 miles tomorrow with a group for a car show, so should be a good day to break it in. I'm going back out to the car now to change to 25%.

I was readying that if you changed the firmness, that you also had to bump up something else to equal it out when I was reading one of the manuals, I've got to try and figure out what it meant.

[AUS10BMX]

Originally Posted by Shu71

I wouldn't change the idle speed at all on a stock engine. Lowering it just increases the wear and tear on parts and raising it will just burn extra fuel. I would definately increase the shift firmness on the transmission some. A little sharper shifting helps prevent bands slipping and will prolong the life of the transmission. Too stiff and you start to shock the driveshaft and dif so I'd probably settle for a 25% stiffer, maybe 50%. As for shift points, I think that only applies to WOT shifts. In that case, I would do those with the paddle shifters manually and would probably leave the stock settings alone for regular driving. But then again I may raise them a little since GM programmed them a little low IMO. Go out and do a couple of WOT runs from dead stop and see what RPM the trans shifts at in stock form. Then raise it to where you feel it accelerates hard even after the shift point.

Great advice as well! Thanks for everyones help.

[AUS10BMX]

TRANSMISSION SHIFT POINTS (AUTOMATICS ONLY)
The shift point option allows the user to change the RPM at which the transmission shifts at wide-open throttle to find the very best shift points for maximum acceleration. For shift point optimizing, test only one (1) shift point at a time until the best RPM shift point is found for each.

TO ADJUST TRANSMISSION SHIFT POINTS, PRESS Y TO KEEP STOCK SHIFT POINTS, PRESS N
When ‘Y’ is pressed, this screen will appear:

USE UP/DOWN ARROWS TO ADJUST SHIFT POINT. THEN PRESS Y TO SELECT OR N TO EXIT 1-2 SHIFT _ _ _ RPM

Press the L arrow once for 100 RPM, twice for 200 RPM, etc. and then press the ‘Y’ button to enter the 1-2 shift point selection. If there is no change to the 1-2 shift point, enter a zero, and press ‘Y’. Use this same process for each of the shift points in the vehicle. The shift point adjustment range is +/-500 RPM in approximately 100 RPM increments for each of the shift points for the vehicle.

[BSR-1]

Originally Posted by AUS10BMX

TRANSMISSION SHIFT POINTS (AUTOMATICS ONLY)
The shift point option allows the user to change the RPM at which the transmission shifts at wide-open throttle to find the very best shift points for maximum acceleration. For shift point optimizing, test only one (1) shift point at a time until the best RPM shift point is found for each.

TO ADJUST TRANSMISSION SHIFT POINTS, PRESS Y TO KEEP STOCK SHIFT POINTS, PRESS N
When ‘Y’ is pressed, this screen will appear:

USE UP/DOWN ARROWS TO ADJUST SHIFT POINT. THEN PRESS Y TO SELECT OR N TO EXIT 1-2 SHIFT _ _ _ RPM

Press the L arrow once for 100 RPM, twice for 200 RPM, etc. and then press the ‘Y’ button to enter the 1-2 shift point selection. If there is no change to the 1-2 shift point, enter a zero, and press ‘Y’. Use this same process for each of the shift points in the vehicle. The shift point adjustment range is +/-500 RPM in approximately 100 RPM increments for each of the shift points for the vehicle.

Attachment 292463

I'm not sure I understand why?
Unless you set the shift point higher than the rev limit so that it would never be able to shift I don't get it.

Even more so for the lowering of the shift points. Why would you need to lower the rev limit?

Anybody with any Ideas?

[Shu71]

The stock rev limit is set at 7000 rpms (I'm pretty sure about that). I would NOT increase the rev limiter on this enigne as it quits pulling past 6900 rpms anyway and with as flat as the power curve is, I doubt you would gain enough to warrant the extra strains on the engine going more. As far as increasing the rev limiter because you increase the shift points, I'd suggest finding the shift points of the stock tune and then only change the ones that need changed. I doubt anyone will need to increase the 5th to 6th gear shift points or even the 4th to 5th unless you have changed the rear gears. With the factory speed limiter set at 155 on the RS cars, you can hit that in fourth gear (on the stick cars at least) so no need to change shift points above the speed limiter IMO. I have the stock gear ratio's and stuff for the auto but it's late and I'm too lazy to find out what speed you would be at in fourth gear at 7000 rpms, but it has to be pretty close to the 155 mph limiter. So in short, test the 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 stock shift points and then adjust from there to start.

As far as shift firmness, again start low and work your way up. I love a good solid tire chrping shift as well, but I think you can get that at 25% or 50% increased. If it takes 75% to get a solid shift then go for it. I do not have an auto so I can't test and give any real data other than recommend not to take it too far and start stressing the rest of the drivetrain.

On my truck, stock, it used to drop two gears going down the interstate running 70 mph and when it went to pull a hill. Then as it got toward the top it would shift hard back into overdrive (4 speed auto). It was annoying and not comfortable. So I changed the shift points so that it raised the 2-3 shift point and lowered the 3-4 shift point. It only took a 2 mph change up and down and it tricked the trans into only dropping to 3rd to pull hill. It was so much smoother, less stressful on the trans (which was the cause of so many stock 4L60 trans failing) and I actually gained a mpg mileage on my commute. That one allowed partial throttle trans shift point changes though, not sure if this one will afect those or not.

[AUS10BMX]

Just left home and I notice a pretty distinct difference. Feels pretty crazy. Firmness is only set at 25% and you can feel the pull.