Insidethreat07's build/mod (somewhat) thread

[Bulldogwinters]

Originally Posted by insidethreat07

Will do. Ive heard people say that it does stiffen the front end up while turning

It does, quite noticeably for me.

[insidethreat07]

Originally Posted by Bulldogwinters

It does, quite noticeably for me.

Hopefully this coming spring after some tires ill have some new shocks and lowering springs. Gotta make a phone call monday about a possible new job

[ndtguy]

Originally Posted by Bulldogwinters

It does, quite noticeably for me.

+1

[fbodyrs96]

Major diffence for me, but I also drive a convertible.

[Revo1]

Lookin good! I have a Hotchkis waiting for install, I need to refinish it first tho. Glad to hear it makes a noticeable difference

[Bulldogwinters]

It just stays so much flatter in corners, I need to get some subframe connectors and a panhard rod and see how much that helps!

[insidethreat07]

Since I took my air silencer out and replaced it with a 3'' PVC pipe, what could I use to take the place of the PVC pipe? I might also cut a 4'' piece off too that wat it has more of the PVC to to tighten up to. The 3'' is barely long enough to reach both side It looks ok, but Id rather have something else in that spot.
Would any of these work? I just want the PCV pipe for a temporary fix
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Performance/Intake-Coupler/_/N-2615?filterByKeyWord=ait+tube&fromString=search&vi ewAll=true
Thanks



Pic of my air silencer delete. The pipe looks alright. I think maybe like a 3'' Diameter x 4'' rubber piece or something would look better. Thanks for the info.

[insidethreat07]

or maybe something like these will work its 3'' dia x 4'' long:

[ndtguy]

Originally Posted by Bulldogwinters

It just stays so much flatter in corners, I need to get some subframe connectors and a panhard rod and see how much that helps!

Subframes will make the car feel like no other. It really ties everything together and is a huge difference in the way the car feels/reacts. It actually allows the front and rear suspension work together.

Panhard rod bar really helps to keep the rearend planted around turns. The car is night and day when paired up with lower control arms and a torque arm poly bushing (Never put a torque arm on the TA so I don't know how much of an improvement it would be over the poly bushing).

I plan on doing the following on the SS. Shocks, subframes, LCA/PHRB, strut tower, poly bushing for the torque arm. I had this setup on the TA and it was awesome in the turns.

[insidethreat07]

Originally Posted by ndtguy

Subframes will make the car feel like no other. It really ties everything together and is a huge difference in the way the car feels/reacts. It actually allows the front and rear suspension work together.

Panhard rod bar really helps to keep the rearend planted around turns. The car is night and day when paired up with lower control arms and a torque arm poly bushing (Never put a torque arm on the TA so I don't know how much of an improvement it would be over the poly bushing).

I plan on doing the following on the SS. Shocks, subframes, LCA/PHRB, strut tower, poly bushing for the torque arm. I had this setup on the TA and it was awesome in the turns.

As far as subframe connectors go, Ive had my heart set on the 3 pt. ones or should I just get the 2 pt. and call them good. I heard the 3 pt. stiffens the car up even more than the 2pt. connector. Whats your thoughts.

[ndtguy]

Originally Posted by insidethreat07

As far as subframe connectors go, Ive had my heart set on the 3 pt. ones or should I just get the 2 pt. and call them good. I heard the 3 pt. stiffens the car up even more than the 2pt. connector. Whats your thoughts.

On the TA, I started off with the SLP 3 points. I then wanted a turbo (because the Procharger wasn't enough for me ) and was offered a rearmount turbo kit, so I went that route. I had to get rid of my driver's side frame connector because it was in the way of the pipe from the turbo to the FMIC. So the drivers side 3pt subframe connector was cutoff.

After wising up and deciding to go front mount, I cut the passenger side 3pt subframe off and put on a boxed 2 pt from BMR.

(ok, now that I've said the above) I will say that I felt exactly zero difference between the 3pt vs 2pt. I didn't just go fast in a straight line, I love turns too. I didn't notice a difference at all. I will say it was a 2 year lapse between putting the car down for the transformation of stock engine/rearmount to built 348/front mount. Still the car handled the same to me since both connectors were welded in. Take it for what its worth.

[insidethreat07]

Next up on the to-do list:
Nitto Tires
http://discounttires.com/product_det...E=&prodID=6770
Herron Performance SFC 2pt. 159.99 Free shipping
https://www.herronperformance.com/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=45
Herron Performance PHR 114.39+ Free Shipping
https://www.herronperformance.com/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=268
BMR Lowering Springs, Set of 4, 1.25" Drop 249.95+25.18 Shipping
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=291
93-02 Bilstein HD Shock Package (Set of 4) 367.40
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/93-02-bilstein-hd-shock-package-set-of-4-/

[insidethreat07]

Since Im thinking about lowering my car and what not next spring, would I need the rear LCA re-location bracket or not? Ive talked to a couple people and they said I shouldnt worry about it since its a v6 and I prob dont have that much wheel hop to begin with. Also, if I would need them would they work just fine with the stock LCA or would I have to go aftermarket? Im just trying to get a list arounf of what all I need. Thanks

[xXSilencerXx]

You only need the relocation brackets if the car is lowered, otherwise the angle of the LCA's are correct. I've never tried to put a stock one in them, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. LCA's are pretty cheap though now so might as well pick em up, the stock ones are garbage.