6L80E modified tuning here!

[tsears]

The purpose of this thread is to discuss tunes regarding the 6L80E in higher (non stock) cars.

Since we are on the high end of the scale when it comes down to weight, it's best we discuss applications that are relatively similar in weight. (Sorry 'vette guys)


Here is my current specs for the 6L:

• 3-5-R & 4-5-6 Alto Red Eagle Clutch packs
• TCS Billet 300m Intermediate shaft
• FTI SRL Stall (2800)
• Welding around the clutch hubs for strength

I've got a modified Century tune from Century Transmissions. Currently 428RWHP on a load bearing dyno.


Lets keep this a working thread, on the topic at hand.


If you want to upload a HPT or log you must zip the file first!

Here is mine that everyone can view. Feel free to make recommendations.
I'm having mixed feelings about the TM. Threads on HPTuners say to turn it completely off for built 6L's, some on G8 threads say to leave it on. Any experience with this?

[SC2150]

We
ll get Phil from Tampa Tuning in here....he has worked his way around the tables pretty well as far as HPT goes...

[tsears]

Originally Posted by SC2150

We
ll get Phil from Tampa Tuning in here....he has worked his way around the tables pretty well as far as HPT goes...

[Slowhawk]

The tuning available still sucks but is getting better.Would be nice to have a nice plug/play swap to 4L60's or 80's that still usses the factory computer to control it.

[tsears]

Originally Posted by Slowhawk

The tuning available still sucks but is getting better.Would be nice to have a nice plug/play swap to 4L60's or 80's that still usses the factory computer to control it.

That's the point of this thread. To work TOGETHER to get a better tune. I'm a fan of early adoption not legacy.

[Tampa Tuning]

Originally Posted by SC2150

We
ll get Phil from Tampa Tuning in here....he has worked his way around the tables pretty well as far as HPT goes...

No pressure right lol

The 6L50/80/90 transmissions are complicated, but really nice when you dial them in. At your power level, it shouldn’t be an issue. Supercharged vehicles burn them up, but with that kind of power level it should be expected. Listen to your builder when he tells you to built it to handle the power. If you keep the tranny stock, and start pushing 600+ RWHP through them, start saving because they are not going to last. Stock to bolt-ons no issues, Cam only with bolt ons, I haven’t notice any issues either but the more power you have, just like the LS3 clutch, it's going to start slipping.

Im interested on how the ZL1 A6 is set up, and when I tune one, Ill inform you.

When I tune a transmission I sit with the owner and ask a ton of question on how they want the transmission set up. I set up the transmission first, so while street tuning, they get a couple hours of feeling how the shifts are set up before they leave.

Below is what I enhance and or reduce.

Stall torque management

Torque management

Part throttle shifts upward. Just depends what the owner likes.

The 2010 1/2s and prior have desired shift times. Builds after that do not. There are a couple dozen up shift and down shifts tables to change. Again, it what the owner likes. the idea is to make the shifts feel consistent.

The inertia factor profile along with the shift time inertia adder tables

The shift time input torque adders

Desired output torque

Something a see a lot of guys forget is the discrete shift torque neutralization

Line pressure for your max pressure, max pressure B, max clutch pressure, and default pressure. The amount of pressure also depends on the type of car and if the car has a aftermarket converter. You just don’t just add 50 pounds blindly across the board. Start small with 5 pounds and increase it. Remember these are temperature sensitive and torque related settings.

The torque converter tables if there is a aftermarket stall, and the stall pressure ramp up.

For the L99 Camaros because the AFM, you have to disable the Displacement On Demand in the transmission and engine.

The desired slip if you have a stall.

The lighter the car, the fewer enhancements for the same affect. With the Corvettes, you still make most of the above changes, just not as much because they are lighter.
I hope that helps. Kid’s don’t try this at home lol

www.TampaTuning.com
Phil

[tsears]

I'm using the shift strategies out of the 2011 CTS-V, work pretty good for street driving.

Originally Posted by Tampa Tuning

No pressure right lol

The 6L50/80/90 transmissions are complicated, but really nice when you dial them in. At your power level, it shouldn’t be an issue. Supercharged vehicles burn them up, but with that kind of power level it should be expected. Listen to your builder when he tells you to built it to handle the power. If you keep the tranny stock, and start pushing 600+ RWHP through them, start saving because they are not going to last. Stock to bolt-ons no issues, Cam only with bolt ons, I haven’t notice any issues either but the more power you have, just like the LS3 clutch, it's going to start slipping.

Im interested on how the ZL1 A6 is set up, and when I tune one, Ill inform you.

When I tune a transmission I sit with the owner and ask a ton of question on how they want the transmission set up. I set up the transmission first, so while street tuning, they get a couple hours of feeling how the shifts are set up before they leave.

Below is what I enhance and or reduce.

Stall torque management

Torque management

Part throttle shifts upward. Just depends what the owner likes.

The 2010 1/2s and prior have desired shift times. Builds after that do not. There are a couple dozen up shift and down shifts tables to change. Again, it what the owner likes. the idea is to make the shifts feel consistent.

The inertia factor profile along with the shift time inertia adder tables

The shift time input torque adders

Desired output torque

Something a see a lot of guys forget is the discrete shift torque neutralization

Line pressure for your max pressure, max pressure B, max clutch pressure, and default pressure. The amount of pressure also depends on the type of car and if the car has a aftermarket converter. You just don’t just add 50 pounds blindly across the board. Start small with 5 pounds and increase it. Remember these are temperature sensitive and torque related settings.

The torque converter tables if there is a aftermarket stall, and the stall pressure ramp up.

For the L99 Camaros because the AFM, you have to disable the Displacement On Demand in the transmission and engine.

The desired slip if you have a stall.

The lighter the car, the fewer enhancements for the same affect. With the Corvettes, you still make most of the above changes, just not as much because they are lighter.
I hope that helps. Kid’s don’t try this at home lol

www.TampaTuning.com
Phil

[Tampa Tuning]

Originally Posted by tsears

I'm using the shift strategies out of the 2011 CTS-V, work pretty good for street driving.

[tsears]

Originally Posted by Tampa Tuning

LOL. You're explanation of this emoticon absolutely amazes me.

[Rhino79]

I have ran reduced tq mgt and no tq mgt. To me, it feels 100 times better with no tq mgt. I didn't get crazy with shift times or pressures. I use efilive and they haven't unlocked a lot of the tq mgt tables to do it properly like hpt or the converter pwm tables, BUT part throttle and wot feel better in my car with no tq management at all.

What I have found is that on this 6l80's a decrease in shift timing will need an increase of line pressure to make it feel right. Even after a few hundred miles of learning. I have pmed slowhawk a few times picking his brain and he has helped me some on the 6l learning curve.

I have EFILive but will post my file up when I get to the other laptop. You can download efilives demo if you don't have it and view it.

[Warhorse]

Originally Posted by tsears

The purpose of this thread is to discuss tunes regarding the 6L80E in higher (non stock) cars.

Since we are on the high end of the scale when it comes down to weight, it's best we discuss applications that are relatively similar in weight. (Sorry 'vette guys)


Here is my current specs for the 6L:

• 3-5-R & 4-5-6 Alto Red Eagle Clutch packs
• TCS Billet 300m Intermediate shaft
• FTI SRL Stall (2800)
• Welding around the clutch hubs for strength

I've got a modified Century tune from Century Transmissions. Currently 428RWHP on a load bearing dyno.


Lets keep this a working thread, on the topic at hand.


If you want to upload a HPT or log you must zip the file first!

Here is mine that everyone can view. Feel free to make recommendations.
I'm having mixed feelings about the TM. Threads on HPTuners say to turn it completely off for built 6L's, some on G8 threads say to leave it on. Any experience with this?

Would like to compare your tune but unable to open .zip file. What do we need to open file in HP Tuner? Is it not possible to post .hpt file here?

I am also desperately trying to better my tune with my setup but as you are aware, the few that are knowlegable are not easily persuaded to share info. Specific info on what parameters and why would help many of us. Further, with positive recommendations, we may even be more interested in experimenting and obtaining results (good or bad) that can be shared by all.

I don't know of anyone that would be happy trashing there trans while learning but I do feel that many have done just that. There are probably a substantial number of self taught members here as myself that own EFI or HP Tuners and tune there own vehichles for a hobby. Afterall, this could lead to many realizing the 6l80 is more capable than as portrayed and possibly place even more money in the professional tuners pockets. For the members here that are old enough and can reflect on the past 50 years of hot rodding, History has proven this to be true.

[Rockit_z28]

Please see below for some new updates from HP Tuners:

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37056

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by tsears

The purpose of this thread is to discuss tunes regarding the 6L80E in higher (non stock) cars.

Since we are on the high end of the scale when it comes down to weight, it's best we discuss applications that are relatively similar in weight. (Sorry 'vette guys)


Here is my current specs for the 6L:

• 3-5-R & 4-5-6 Alto Red Eagle Clutch packs
• TCS Billet 300m Intermediate shaft
• FTI SRL Stall (2800)
• Welding around the clutch hubs for strength

I've got a modified Century tune from Century Transmissions. Currently 428RWHP on a load bearing dyno.


Lets keep this a working thread, on the topic at hand.


If you want to upload a HPT or log you must zip the file first!

Here is mine that everyone can view. Feel free to make recommendations.
I'm having mixed feelings about the TM. Threads on HPTuners say to turn it completely off for built 6L's, some on G8 threads say to leave it on. Any experience with this?

If there is anything I can say that will be helpful to newb tuners, Less is More.

Too many tuners new and professional blindly modify as many table as they can get access to without a full understanding of the strategy, cause and effect.

Starts with 1 Change and TEST TEST TEST then 2 and so on.

Ted.

[NEGXXIS]

Ted, (anyone else that can help)
I have your rough idle cam and your ProTorque converter, is there anyway to make the car not push so much when sitting at a red light?
What i mean is ....when my car is in drive and I am sitting at a red light for example...the car is pushing against the brakes like it doesnt even have a stall and you cant hear the cam lope at all. I find myselfputting the car in neutral at red light a lot due to this. BTW I tune with HP Tuners.

I have owned other cammed stalled vehicles that didnt do this.