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#15 |
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When I used the Adam's in-out-spray, it looked like it made it black again, but later after drying, the white residue returned...
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#16 |
![]() Drives: 2012 Corvette Grand Sport Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: martinez Ga.
Posts: 503
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#17 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 2SS/RS,M6,Black w/CGM Stripes Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nashville, NC
Posts: 1,777
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Quote:
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
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3" RDP Motorsports aggressive cat-back exhaust w/ x-pipe, Vararam CAI, Hurst's short throw shifter, Gary's Customs painted bowties, Ofer's HID DRL/Fog Light wiring harness, Kelvin 8K HID DRL bulbs, ZL1 grille. Johnson's window tint film, LSR lowering springs, Metra dash kit with Pioneer In-Dash DVD head unit. |
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#18 |
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Drives: The shiny ones. Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: In the detail shop!
Posts: 5,979
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APC and a toothbrush is my preferred method. You can also use the white drafting erasers in some cases with good results.
In & Out is not a cleaner, its a dressing (as jdenotter pointed out) so all you're doing by spraying it over residue is hiding it temporarily, which will be true of any dressing. Clean the area first, remove the residue, then dress the trim for the best results. |
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#19 |
![]() Drives: 79Z28 and 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Greenville, TX
Posts: 526
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Here are a couple of reviews on a wax eraser you might want to try.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...o-talking.html http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ax-eraser.html |
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#20 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Westchester NY
Posts: 990
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guys i have tried every imaginable tip and nothing worked.
I just removed all my plastic trim on my SS and repainted satin black with matte clearcoat. The clearcoat should protect enough from future wax build up on my CTSV same thing i painted all the parts except the trim surrounds on the door glass. After closer inspection the trim surrounds on my CTSV are a smooth textured wrapped vinyl material. I think the only fix is to have someone peel and re wrap the area, very annoying. |
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#21 |
![]() Drives: 2011 camaro ls Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: lafayette, la
Posts: 219
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I always put some protectant like armor all before I wax my car; that way the if wax gets on the plastic it doesn't stick.
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#22 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS RS, Black Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 413
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Are you sure the "whitish" residue that you have on your black plastic trim is from wax (or sealant)?
I have owned several SUVs that have the plastic trim on the bumper and running boards. I certainly don't get wax on them but they tend to have that whitish appearance after a couple of years. I always figured it was just the plastic oxidizing and breaking down from the sun. I refuse to put any sort of dressing on the running boards because I've almost hit the ground a couple of times when I've used various "treatments" that are way too slippery. If the plastic is textured, I have had good results using a green scotchbrite pad to remove that layer of oxidized plastic. However, I tried it once on smooth plastic and it left bad scratches, so test a small area first. I wish there were a product that would dissolve that stuff without being abrasive. |
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#23 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS RS, Black Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 413
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One more thing, If you are looking for a dressing to make plastic look good, my go to is an aerosol. Adams' In and Out Spray is highly recommended but I gotta give props to the Meguiar's version too, it's called Plastic and Vinyl Coating. A 10 oz. aerosol is $5.99 at Autogeek (you do the math).
I love it on my plastic Weathertech floor mats. Clean, then spray on the Plastic coating. After about 30 minutes, I'll wipe them down with a MF towel and it leaves them almost unnoticeably slick but looking brand new. |
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#24 |
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"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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Your success in removing wax residue from plastic and rubber trim totally depends on the wax and how long it has been there. I have battled this monster before.
The key here is to avoid getting wax in these areas to begin with so you are better served by masking them off. Some waxes are a lot easier to get off than others. I have never had much problem with Adam's or Zaino products, regardless of how long they were on anything. However, 3M's compounds are an entirely different animal all together. If you don't get that stuff off the trim or rubber within a day or so, it ain't coming off unless you use something like paint thinner! That's right, paint thinner... and you can only use that on the rubber parts. Thankfully, not all paint thinners are the same so I use a thinner that has difficulty removing paint. That's your ace in the hole. So it depends on what wax or polish you get on the trim. Some things mention to remove (not cover) wax and polish in this thread will work at times, but not all times. You just have to trial and error it, escalating as you go.
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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
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#25 |
![]() Drives: 2011 1LT Silver RS package Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Palm Beach
Posts: 461
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+1
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#26 |
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Voice Of The Voiceless
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You can try my method
![]() Although, I would add that you "wash" the area after you use the APC and before you apply the VRT.
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#27 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: IOM 2013 2SS/RS, Greenie, 06 FXSTBi Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Turd Town, WI
Posts: 1,602
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My advice?
Let's all wax our trim and hire the Adams girl in the vid to come put on a clinic!
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#28 |
![]() Drives: 2010 2LT CGM RS Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 18
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This may sound very strange but, peanut butter works great.
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