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Old 01-08-2012, 07:03 PM   #1
SUX2BU
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A third SUX2BU fix for the convertible rub marks. GM take note!

Ok, you may have seen my first fix that GM actually copied and made their "Official fix" www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153498

I still had some rub marks so I did a second fix with some flashing tape I had laying around http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1058

Well, I was still getting some slight rub marks so I decided to work on another fix. They aren't very bad and almost disappear after a good wash, but I finally got bored enough to try to fix them. I was going to cut the plastic rail where I applied the tape but thought that was a bit drastic and 99% of you wouldn't be willing to do that. I also didn't want GM to say anything when their "Official in the works fix" comes out later if i hack up my rails.








Here is my lotion test that tells me exactly what is going on. I put a little lotion on the rails where the canvas contacts it and obviously the more pressure between the rail and the canvas the more lotion that will transfer to the canvas. Here is my control results before I changed anything.
I also made sure to reapply fresh lotion for every test so I could get consistent results.












I figured there had to be a stop or something that could be adjusted so that the top doesn't close on itself so much.
I found the stop that comes to rest on the rail itself. Its not really that the rails pinch the canvas top, more like the edge of the canvas top is stretched over the rail when the top is down. The pressure from the top being stretched across the rail is what causes the rub marks. The rough texture of the rail makes these marks even worse. That is why the tape I put on the rail helps alleviate the marks a little bit. If the stop was just a half inch longer I believe that would work just fine.




I thought about just unbolting the stop and adding some spacers under it for a cleaner install that adding a bunch of pieces of tape but this stop also pulls the canvas top and so moving that might loosen the tightness of the top. I didn't feel like messing with all that so I just used a bunch of tape. It an easily removable fix until GM comes out with their fix.







I decided that the best way to space this out would be to use some flashing tape and stack it up on the rail where the stop contacts it. On my car I could see little rub marks on the rail where the stop contacts it. If you don't have that many miles on your car you may not see these marks. You can put your top all the way down and use a marker to reach in to the rail and mark where the stop contacts it, it is very easy to see with the top down.

Putting tape in this area is fine since it is only visible when the top is halfway through its operation. When closed or open you can not see this at all.

Obviously the bigger you make the spacer the higher the top will sit when you drop it so you don't want to go over board. I first put about 1/4" of spacers on the rail and did another lotion test to see how close I was.










I didn't want to put too much on the rail, so I put a few more layers of tape on the rail and then also put some on the tip of the stop. All together I would say that I put about 3/8" of tape on each side. I did another lotion test and was happy with the results. There was barely any contact between the canvas and the rail so this is where I stopped.

Now when you do this the top will sit a little higher when lowered all the way down. Mine only sat about 1/4" - 1/2" higher but the boot still fit just fine. It actually fit a little more snug so I think that will help keep it tucked and grounded so it won't take flight.

BTW: Before anyone asks that is not the final version of the Wind Restrictor in the pics. The final version fits a lot better. It is moved farther back so it lines up with the gap behind the seats and the brackets are more contoured to the trim panel.




















Video of how the top bounces around.


Last edited by SUX2BU; 01-24-2012 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:13 PM   #2
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Great job!
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:24 PM   #3
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Great find brother! I'll definitely take a look into this!

Not to play devils advocate, but.... with the top sitting higher, and for those trips when not using the tanneau (or those who may not have one) will the raised height effect the air flow into the recessed top (I.e.- will there be added airflow that causes the folded top to now fill with air as you drive, being raised a bit???)
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drago77 View Post
Great find brother! I'll definitely take a look into this!

Not to play devils advocate, but.... with the top sitting higher, and for those trips when not using the tanneau (or those who may not have one) will the raised height effect the air flow into the recessed top (I.e.- will there be added airflow that causes the folded top to now fill with air as you drive, being raised a bit???)
Nope. The motor locks it down pretty good. 90% of the time I roll with out my cover on.

Last edited by SUX2BU; 01-08-2012 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:33 PM   #5
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Great job.
You hit on what I have said many times and finally proved it. The tops are not the problem, it is the design of the top and the car itself. On my 95 4th gen the top just went all the way down to almost the floorboards in the well and just kind of hung there and wasn't compressed. Due to space limitations there just isn't enough room for that to happen and the top compresses more on itself. When they can get the compression under control we will have a fix. Bow #5 is a totally different issue.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:40 PM   #6
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Sux put a copyright C on everypicture. Then it will be your intellectual property and if GM uses any of your fixes you should be compensated. Just a thought but I would do it. They have been shafting us now you can give them the shaft.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUX2BU View Post
Nope. It the motor locks it down pretty good. 90% of the time I roll with out my cover on.
Does your wind screen factor at all into that?
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:05 PM   #8
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Does your wind screen factor at all into that?
No, I only put it on when I'm gonna leave the top down all day. The Wind Restrictor actually pushes the boot back about 1/2" so it tucks under the rear trim even better. It hasn't come anywhere close to coming untucked ever since I got the Wind Restrictor.
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:14 PM   #9
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Thanks for taking the time to document all this. Fine job indeed!
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:25 PM   #10
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great job.
GM should look at this.
Seems like you "hit the nail on the head" with this one.This is probably the issue the verts are facing.
You think GM engineers could come up with a fiber spacer material instead of the tape and the fix for the rub marks would be solved.
Hell,
GM should hire you as a convertible consultant and maybe we would have all the fixes by now.
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:42 PM   #11
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Nice work, I wish the weather here would warm up so I could do some experimenting.
Not to change the subject but... How long till the wind restrictor becomes available ? I saw some of the graphics and I think this is going to be a great looking mod !

Quote:
Originally Posted by SUX2BU View Post
No, I only put it on when I'm gonna leave the top down all day. The Wind Restrictor actually pushes the boot back about 1/2" so it tucks under the rear trim even better. It hasn't come anywhere close to coming untucked ever since I got the Wind Restrictor.
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUX2BU View Post
No, I only put it on when I'm gonna leave the top down all day. The Wind Restrictor actually pushes the boot back about 1/2" so it tucks under the rear trim even better. It hasn't come anywhere close to coming untucked ever since I got the Wind Restrictor.
You referring to the restrictor or the tanneau? My question was if your wind restrictor would block the additional airflow that might get under the slightly raised top when contracted? The issue of top compression was brought up before, and my concern has always been the "Z" fold method which leaves an exposed top fold that can catch air and lift at higher speeds.. seems to me (hypothetically) that the wind restrictor may block this lower level air flow and change the results for the masses..

Just a thought.

Again, appreciate your efforts!
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutbutt View Post
Nice work, I wish the weather here would warm up so I could do some experimenting.
Not to change the subject but... How long till the wind restrictor becomes available ? I saw some of the graphics and I think this is going to be a great looking mod !
Should have the pics up this week. You should contact Wind Restrictor to see how close they are to taking orders. I don't want to put my foot in my mouth.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drago77 View Post
You referring to the restrictor or the tanneau? My question was if your wind restrictor would block the additional airflow that might get under the slightly raised top when contracted? The issue of top compression was brought up before, and my concern has always been the "Z" fold method which leaves an exposed top fold that can catch air and lift at higher speeds.. seems to me (hypothetically) that the wind restrictor may block this lower level air flow and change the results for the masses..

Just a thought.

Again, appreciate your efforts!
Oh, there shouldn't be an issue. Like I said the top is locked by the motor when down, If it comes up something is wrong. The only thing that should come up and flap in the wind is the excess canvas.
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:17 AM   #14
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Sux, you da man!!

Thank you for your time & effort and sharing this, you really got it - the lotion test is practical and really shows the results.

I didn't put many miles on my vert last year (<2k), so now I'll know what to check if I run into this.
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